Installing Clutch weights.

[Falcon1772]

So I'm pretty much braindead when it comes to clutching, I've tried educate myself but the more I read about it the more my head spins. I understand the general concept but when the numbers come in and all the terminology I get so lost.
I'm really interested in the SLP Magnum weights mostly because of their statement of a lower engagement.

"IMPORTANT NOTE: Magnum Force™ Weights will begin engaging at a much lower 3000 RPM with
significantly less slippage than OEM weights for positive grab on the belt. This is by design. More belt
force (lower engagement) means less belt slippage and heat generation. It also means much better
horsepower transfer and acceleration. Take note that the sled’s engagement characteristic’s will have
a noticeable change vs stock weights."

Here is my question, well 2 actually.
1 How do the SLP Magnum weights compare to a clutch kit? I'm still not entirely sure what a clutch kit means as a whole? Is it weights, springs, helixes? I also don't understand how a ramp/weight (are they the same thing?) profile affects it.
2. Could I install just the SLP magnum weights like the guy does in this video to adjust his ZRP weights? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K468A4L5HHM

Sorry for all the confusion. This all reminds me of math back in school, especially when we hit algebra, my brain just goes to mush and turns off.

I have a couple dealers I could go to, to have an A2D clutch kit installed. I don't really want to buy tools or anything like that. Don't want to fiddle with changing parts out a bunch to get it tuned right, just a one and done kinda deal.

 

[Falcon1772]

well this video actually helped me alot. might help someone else too https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHJncZuElAc
Based on that I believe I can change just the weights but I'd still like someone knowledgeable to confirm that.

 

[donbrown]

Im an end user and researched this and concluded there seems to me 2 main players for SKIDoo.

https://www.ibackshift.com/article/welcome-to-the-revzone-1.asp


https://www.facebook.com/SledHeadRa...5Zu0OSrVMSisHoBhmVpP6OqGioyGA&fref=nf&__xts__[0]=68.ARD_Jye71RPqUJ_9NuShV1HMjgoIW5BCBP1fFnp8Xpb8ANvO_b7YVoh0y96j69dNB5cXWM7tFyN6mjJuyAMQ_Kp_C8t1TIqXYWFcRX4Jl3t0ccSLymZiJ8-6TuS8cLlssj93GkRwZ-wswQAeZPp7h7R3XMCbicPo2hTw1ZspRfapLTe93QUjO100XO_LKEZJJLh4UFH4wZjGAKDbWIoT1nkBQEPOC-hSSYj1Z00Fj13nKcgNwCUzBerSuEawUcFhkSn7Rk4ooFIew21BLkEKd-YA1UtyTSe84QrUYnLANtDJ3MXWzJHmus3WY8rg1MGYE8Ow3EGgEIaHa5LAlj8CVyBPEg&__tn__=kC-R

Between these 2 gurus of clutching youll figure it out.

 

[AKDoug]

Im an end user and researched this and concluded there seems to me 2 main players for SKIDoo.

https://www.ibackshift.com/article/welcome-to-the-revzone-1.asp


https://www.facebook.com/SledHeadRa...5Zu0OSrVMSisHoBhmVpP6OqGioyGA&fref=nf&__xts__[0]=68.ARD_Jye71RPqUJ_9NuShV1HMjgoIW5BCBP1fFnp8Xpb8ANvO_b7YVoh0y96j69dNB5cXWM7tFyN6mjJuyAMQ_Kp_C8t1TIqXYWFcRX4Jl3t0ccSLymZiJ8-6TuS8cLlssj93GkRwZ-wswQAeZPp7h7R3XMCbicPo2hTw1ZspRfapLTe93QUjO100XO_LKEZJJLh4UFH4wZjGAKDbWIoT1nkBQEPOC-hSSYj1Z00Fj13nKcgNwCUzBerSuEawUcFhkSn7Rk4ooFIew21BLkEKd-YA1UtyTSe84QrUYnLANtDJ3MXWzJHmus3WY8rg1MGYE8Ow3EGgEIaHa5LAlj8CVyBPEg&__tn__=kC-R

Between these 2 gurus of clutching youll figure it out.

Sled Head Racing's (BigJohn)'s website is http://www.sledheadracing.net/

 

[ThePennySaved]

Fellow Alaskan here Give Chad at A2D a call; he's great to work with.

I bought his clutch kit when he was still using the ZRP weights. The kit comes with a secondary spring, helix and weights. I told him the year, make, model and track of the sled along with what areas of the state I ride. He took the ZRP weights out of the box, preloaded the magnetic weights for me, and they have been damn near perfect.

Granted, I installed the kit myself, but you could take it with the preloaded weights to any shop and have them install it.

 

[Falcon1772]

You need special tools to install correct? I just don't want to buy a set of tools I'll use maybe once or twice.

 

[PaulAnd]

A long bolt and and a hammer to get the weight pin/bushing out.
Taking the belt off and using a primary holder would make it easier but not needed, you need to pry open the primary slightly to clear the roller



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ThePennySaved]

You need special tools to install correct? I just don't want to buy a set of tools I'll use maybe once or twice.

Yeah, I ordered a set of tools through C&T Powersports. The labor cost is about the same as buying the tools; I look at my time invested as becoming more knowledgeable about the sled in case things get sideways out in the mountains. Not to mention being able to work on future sleds, help out buddies, etc.

 

[donbrown]

Yeah, I ordered a set of tools through C&T Powersports. The labor cost is about the same as buying the tools; I look at my time invested as becoming more knowledgeable about the sled in case things get sideways out in the mountains. Not to mention being able to work on future sleds, help out buddies, etc.

Did the same thing buying tools from C&T . Tools work on the new P Drive clutch

Less expensive than going to a dealer. Plus INSTANTLY fixed especially this time of the year where a good clutch mechanic is offering a month turn around.

 

[Falcon1772]

so all in all about $600 bucks to get a clutch kit yeah?

 

[ak]

so all in all about $600 bucks to get a clutch kit yeah?

If your just installing the weights then no, you can do it in the sled with a few tools, pretty simple really.

 

[donbrown]

so all in all about $600 bucks to get a clutch kit yeah?

Complete tool kit $258

http://c-tpowersports.com/2013website/product/P Drive Complete ClutchTool Kit_3.html


ibackshift COMPLETE clutch kit $436 Canadian US $327 plus $30 shipping

https://www.ibackshift.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=121

 

[Falcon1772]

Complete tool kit $258

http://c-tpowersports.com/2013website/product/P Drive Complete ClutchTool Kit_3.html


ibackshift COMPLETE clutch kit $436 Canadian US $327 plus $30 shipping

https://www.ibackshift.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=121

258 + 327+ 30 = 615.

So Where does the majority of the bang from these kits come from? is it the weights? Helix? springs? Also is there any weight kits that retain the clicker adjustment? I like how easy the Magnum weights look to adjust, once installed no need to pull them out. However when I ride around home its about sea level and their kit says its only good for 3000+ Is there any super easy to adjust ones like that that can work at sea level as well?
I'm getting more of a grasp on how this stuff works as far as tuning. I apologize for my ignorance.

 

[donbrown]

258 + 327+ 30 = 615.

So Where does the majority of the bang from these kits come from? is it the weights? Helix? springs? Also is there any weight kits that retain the clicker adjustment? I like how easy the Magnum weights look to adjust, once installed no need to pull them out. However when I ride around home its about sea level and their kit says its only good for 3000+ Is there any super easy to adjust ones like that that can work at sea level as well?
I'm getting more of a grasp on how this stuff works as far as tuning. I apologize for my ignorance.

Im no expert.

Whoever kit you buy the clickers will still work. Adjust without removing weights. that's the beauty of the P DRIVE

So once you get any weight added to the clutch you run the sled. Whoever you buy the weights from will give you a ball park area of what size weights to add.


Why is everyone different on the weights? A FULL kit will include RAMPS and clutch springs specific to the tuning of that specific shop.

I purchased a complete kit from ibackshift and don't know them except for the comments here online. (Afterwards my riding buddies wanted me to go to sledhead racing) He advised 966 ramps for me at 8000 feet with 230lb rider/gear along with springs and weights to engage in the low 3000 RPM and max out 7950 plusminus 50RPM

Set up on click number 3

Run at full RPM WOT and get a look at RPM running. NOT the the computer stated max RPM which for a fraction of a second be above 8000 RPM.


Then adjust one click to change 50 RPM. Re ride and recheck.


One last thing not discussed is the gearing. I ride mountains , deep snow on a 154 track and geared to 19/51 and others gear to 19/53.

Don't know what you are trying to do but gear accordingly. I know back east the trail riders gear up to go faster.

If you want to know TOO much the bible of clutching is Aaen's Clutch Tuning Handbook

 

[donbrown]

258 + 327+ 30 = 615.

So Where does the majority of the bang from these kits come from? is it the weights? Helix? springs?

The bang for the buck is the combination of components giving manageable maximum acceleration to peak power around 7950 without tearing up the drive train … especially burning the clutch belt.

And then a managed deceleration.

I know it seems to be a BS answer BUT once you get on a tuned sled it behaves completely different than stock.

Faster accel , smoother , lower heat , hold RPM longer etc , slows better.

And yes these guys know setups for low elevation and up high because they know Aaen's Clutch Tuning Handbook rules to tuning.