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Installation and Review: Psychosled "Bridge" Fuel Controller

christopher

Well-known member
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
Last Spring I had to opportunity to go riding with Jeff, owner of Psychosled Industries, at the SnoWest Forum Ride in Togwotte. Some of you may recall that during the forum ride my MPI Supercharged Nytro was displaying some really "ODD" behavior. During the course of that forum ride Jeff had the chance to put my Nytro through her paces while trying to determine what he thought might be the root cause of the strange behavior. At the end of his test ride he suggested that the MPI GEMs unit was the root cause and mentioned to me, that if I was patient, he would have a "killer" solition come next Fall. That was March 2012, Its now December and the killer solution has just arrived....

If all goes well I will have this unit installed and riding this weekend..


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Pyschosled Industries has just begun shipping their brand new "Bridge Fuel Controller" for Turbo or Supercharged Yamaha Nytro sleds.
http://psychosled.com/Shop/

NOTE:
This product is not yet available in their online store, but can be ordered by contacting Jeff directly. As soon as it is listed in their store I will update this link. sales@PsychoSled.com


From their posted information...

The PsychoSled “Bridge” fuel control system was developed for low to mid-range boost sleds. It has been tested and proven in Yamaha Nytro sleds that produce 0-8 lbs. of boost at sea level and 0-10 lbs. of boost at 8-10,000 ft. for the last 3 years. It works synonymously with turbos OR superchargers – with A SINGLE MAP ACROSS THE BOARD - by utilizing Dynojet automotive technology and an OEM Yamaha style wiring harness. Our system works in conjunction with, and allows component communications via, the OEM ECU.

Instead of “piggyback” or “stand-alone”, we like to refer to our system as a fuel control “bridging” system.

0-10 PSI? Yes! Shell a supercharger belt? Wastegate stuck open? Zero boost? No problem… no adjustments… just ride back to the truck – no over-fueling! (Your clutching will suck, but the engine will run just like a stock sled!)

With the conditions, and ideal testing opportunities of OFT Racing owner Rick Coffman, PsychoSled fitted the fastest asphalt drag sled in the state of Alaska this summer. This wasn’t always the fastest sled in Alaska, but with a specialized PsychoSled fuel control system that managed 15 lbs. of rear mount, “prototype”, turbo boost @ 16 feet above sea level, running steady 12.5 AFR’s on race fuel… the system catapulted Rick’s Nytro to the front of the pack. Even systems homebuilt from various parts, from various vendors are easily controlled with this system (Alaska state ¼ mile record is on file).

Need we say more?

This is also the perfect upgrade for customers who have purchased the OEM Yamaha 180 hp boost kits – turbo OR supercharger.

The fuel controller will make it run the way it should have from the factory… it will actually reach that advertised 180 hp threshold – most likely beyond – and it will run like a top. As a matter of fact, you can stay at the “180 hp” rating, or you can up your turbo boost via customer turbo tinkering, or customer pulley changes on the SC kits – all the way to 10 PSI at elevation… this system will cover it! At this point, there is no other system that works in quite the same manner the PSI Bridge does.

**NOTE**
For increased boost levels on the OEM boost kits from Yamaha, Psychosled STRONGLY recommends the addition of MPI’s intercooler system. Increased compression creates increased intake temps that can lead to detonation – even with a superior fuel and fuel control systems.

Final Note:
Buyers need to beware that Dynojet now has their own PC5 system on the market that offers a pressure sensor (Dynojet P/N - 22-025-PTI) – THIS IS IN NO WAY NEAR THE PSYCHOSLED BRIDGE FUEL CONTROL. It uses a similar sensor, and comparable electronics, but it still requires user mapping of the fuel table, pressure table, air temp table, etc… The PsychoSled system is completely “plug-n-play”. (Some welding required).

Wanna turn the key and ride?
This is your answer – plain and simple.
Ride it like you stole it.


Their advertised Photo.
PSIController.JPG

 
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When I placed my order I opted for the "Deluxe" edition with the LCD Display AND Psychosled's new Billet Aluminum display enclosure. This resulted in me getting a 2nd box with more goodies in it.

In both cases all the contents were WELL wrapped to ensure they arrived clean and undamaged.

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Patiently waiting to hear how you like this. I have a home built rear mount turbo that I want to install this on.

Mike
 
Working on removing the Skinz tunnel cover I installed for the under the tunnel exhaust so I can get the A/F sensor bung welded in tomorrow.

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General Heads Up for anyone considering installing this kit.
Be aware that if you have an intercooler for your turbo or Supercharger that you have, as Psychosled puts it, (Some welding required)...:face-icon-small-hap


Took the sled in to Rexburg Motorsports this afternoon to have the Bung welded in place for the Exhaust Air/Fuel sensor. While getting ready for that I realized that there is no possible way to weld the bung for the MAF without removing the intercooler from the sled. While not the end of the world, I must admit I did not anticipate having to tear down the front end of my sled and removing the intercooler as part of this project. But I can see no possible route of doing the install and the required aluminum welding without the intercooler being out. And in my particular case my local shop doesn't weld aluminum so I will be transporting the intercooler to a different facility for the welding job to make sure the intercooler is not damaged in any way. Sigh..

"Some Welding Required" just made this install significantly more complicated for me...

Plan Accordingly guys...
 
I ran into the same thing. It took me all of 15 minutes to pull off the airbox on my turbo...seriously no big deal. Besides tearing apart and putting together is half the fun of sledding. For something that will make such a HUGE difference in the "enjoyability" of your sled it will be well worth a few extra minutes. Besides, you wouldn't want to drill the intercooler on the sled anyway. You would run the risk of drilled out debris falling down in and getting sucked up in the motor. Once that part is done it will be smooth sledding.

I have had 4 boosted Yamaha's including a Phazer, Apex, and 2 Nytro's and NONE of them ever ran as smooth as mine does now. You are in for a real treat!
 
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Agreed, I just failed to understand what was required of this install. My fault, not their's.

The A/F bung is welded in and the sensor is in place. Inter cooler is in the process of being extracted now and I hope to have that bung welded onto the inter cooler tomorrow. Maybe, just maybe, I will finally get my first ride of the season in on Saturday if I am very lucky!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
We try very hard to cover all of the bases with descriptions, and instructions for our products.

We do occasionally "omit" certain aspects of an installation with the assumption that our products are most often installed by seasoned industry professionals, or very astute, and mechanically inclined owners. We sell parts to "modify" sleds - any part you purchase from us will require some level of change.

We sell high quality and high performance parts that are far from OEM, and this often lends itself to somewhat involved installations.

If upon the shipping arrival of ANY of our products, a customer deems that they are not satisfied with the look, instructions, or overall quality of the product, they are more than welcome to return the products for a full refund. (Minus shipping, and provided the items have not been installed or damaged).

We do our best to be honest, upfront, and offer the best products available. We can't always cover ALL of the bases, but we do our best...

I apologize for your angst, and I will be sure to premise the instructions from here on out with the disclaimer:

"Please review these instructions in their entirety before commencing installation. This kit requires dis-assembly and modifications of stock and aftermarket parts that are not for the faint of heart..."

:face-icon-small-win

-Moto
PsychoSled Industries
 
No Worries.
All is well.

The Intercooler was removed first thing this morning.

Sent over to a local shop that does quality Aluminum welding and they welded the bung onto it for me.

Finished intercooler was re-installed this evening and the sled is now ready for me to pick up from Rexburg Motor Sports first thing tomorrow morning! :face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap

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While there should be no issue what-so-ever with the orientation of your bung, we prefer to orient it as shown in the picture below. It offers a bit cleaner wiring solution...

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While there should be no issue what-so-ever with the orientation of your bung, we prefer to orient it as shown in the picture below. It offers a bit cleaner wiring solution...
Oh Well.
Guess that will get added to the next revision of the installation instructions!

The dangers of sending off the intercooler to a welding shop with a copy of the instructions, but without knowing that the orientation needed to be in the opposite direction.

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Next Note to would be installers...

Pyschosled is strongly suggesting that you swap out the OEM spark plugs and replace them with NGK CR10E.

In my case there is not a shop in Idaho Falls that carries this plug.
Its a special order item everywhere I called, so I had to order it online with rush shipping.

If I am lucky, considering tomorrow is Christmas, I might see this by the end of the week.

And with the Nytro the Gas Tank covers the spark plugs, and the Skinz Seat I am running has to be riveted in place over the gas tank. So without the new plugs I can't not re-assemble my sled.
 
Next Note to would be installers...

Pyschosled is strongly suggesting that you swap out the OEM spark plugs and replace them with NGK CR10E.

In my case there is not a shop in Idaho Falls that carries this plug.
Its a special order item everywhere I called, so I had to order it online with rush shipping.

If I am lucky, considering tomorrow is Christmas, I might see this by the end of the week.

And with the Nytro the Gas Tank covers the spark plugs, and the Skinz Seat I am running has to be riveted in place over the gas tank. So without the new plugs I can't not re-assemble my sled.

The new plugs are merely a strong "suggestion" to help combat potential detonation. The sled will be fine with the stock plugs until the new ones arrive, especially considering outside temps, and the elevation you ride.

The plugs can be changed by simply removing the side panels, utilizing the proper tools, and being determined you won't let a project keep you from your passion. It is a tight fit, but I've seen your hands - you should be fine! :face-icon-small-win I do suggest breaking the plug boots loose while you have the tank off, applying a bit of di-electric gel (available at NAPA) and re-installing them. This will keep them from sticking, and makes their removal much easier in the tight situation you encounter with the tank in place.

I also recommend using "riv-nuts" and button head cap screws in place of the pop rivets with the Skinz seat. It makes the "on and off" a breeze. They are the same item that is used in the subframe when installing an OEM skid plate.

You can generally find them at a hardware store, or at a Ford dealership parts room (they used to use them to mount pickup mirrors to door skins).

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I also recommend using "riv-nuts" and button head cap screws in place of the pop rivets with the Skinz seat. It makes the "on and off" a breeze. They are the same item that is used in the subframe when installing an OEM skid plate.

You can generally find them at a hardware store, or at a Ford dealership parts room (they used to use them to mount pickup mirrors to door skins).

5RB10_AS01.JPG

There is an interesting thought. :face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap
 
Thought about working on the sled today, but just never quite got into the garage to get started! :face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap
 
Got the new plugs and gapped them to .030
In my case I got the IRIDIUM plugs ONLY because the regular ones were on longer back order and I was tired of waiting on this project.

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