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Installation and Review: OFT's "Big Nutz Axle kit for OEM Rails"

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I think our drawing takes this for granted. We will update it to include loosening the rear cross-bolts to gain the room needed to get the axle in. Always feel free to give a call instead of getting frustrated :mad:

Scott

There was no paperwork in the box you guys sent to me.....

So I just figured it out on my own.

Was a little frustrating as I tried every which way to get that axle to slide into those holes with the wheels on it. Then just decided there must not be an elegant way to do this and started loosening the rails and it popped right into place with NO troubles at all !
 
Just use a good heavy rubber hammer put one of your bolts all the way in and hit the end it will knock one off and then you can take the shaft out and knock the other one off they are on there snug but not to bad..

Got a large deep socket and used it to drive the axle out of each wheel.
and then used it again to seat the new wheels.

Once I knew what the heck I was doing, the process went VERY quickly and with NO troubles at all!!

The wheels are in place, look great, and work fine.
 
been running the kit for a while...personally, seen too many two wheel kits explode under boost...So, Big Nutz is the way for me...

install is a no brainer...

Also, there are FAR more knowledgable people than me about this, but you do lose track speed at some point with a bigger rear wheel, the magic seems to be the 8" varietals :)

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Once the OEM axle was out of the sled, and the Yamaha adjusting bolts had been removed.

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It was a snap to assemble the new wheels/axle.
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As mentioned earlier, getting the new assembly to fit into the rails took some thought on my part. I spent a good while trying to figure out how to insert them before it dawned on me that I had to split the rail apart to allow the new axle/wheel combination to slide into place.

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That looks awesome!! Looking forward to your post of the sled complete. I have been following all your posts. Great job.
 
Christopher, if you are running a Timbersled skid, I would HIGHLY recommend an anti-Stab kit....(it is at the front of the rails on my pic)

It is incredibly cheap insurance!!!! and WAY easier to install than replacing a track, and getting dragged out of the mountains with no track...

I am just sayin....
 
Christopher, if you are running a Timbersled skid, I would HIGHLY recommend an anti-Stab kit....(it is at the front of the rails on my pic)

It is incredibly cheap insurance!!!! and WAY easier to install than replacing a track, and getting dragged out of the mountains with no track...

I am just sayin....

What do you mean by anti-stab kit?
 
What do you mean by anti-stab kit?

If you look at the front of my skid...it is the wheels on the front...you have to buy the kit separate...with certain suspensions, you can stab the track with the rails, and this is a kit that is designed to stop that...

I LOVE my timbersled suspension, however, one thing I recommend to anyone, but especially with timbersled, is to run an antistab kit...

Here is a closer pic of the kit at the front...It is the wheel/axle thing at the front of the rails...


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What is it that you love about that suspension????

Mountainhorse is trying to talk me into one of those, and I had been thinking about the EZ Ryde
 
What is it that you love about that suspension????

Mountainhorse is trying to talk me into one of those, and I had been thinking about the EZ Ryde


# 1 service and support...ever have an issue (like hidden land mines from early season riding...parts can get overnighted...which if your like me, is a HUGE issue, as I work too much, and my sledding time is my "sanity" time each year so every day is critical and I would about pay anything to get the parts immediately, but never once has Allen had an issue with going out of his way to help...

# 2 It is a very good all around suspension, there are others better at one thing or another (and I am avoiding the debate topics in my description) however, for me, and for what I do, it is the best suspension...I dont care to bash others or put others down, I just prefer to say what i like and why...

for me, the Timbersled is very light (imperative) it is also, VERY durable (I am not light, nor am I easy on my gear) It is also simple to adjust and make changes...I like simple strong and light...

# 3 Did I mention it is light? and our sleds need every ounce saved they can?

I have written pretty exhaustively on the first ride impressions and my review of the skid in past threads....Am sure you can search my name and timbersled and find them....
 
FIRST RIDE REVIEW.

Took the sled out for its first ride of the season with the wheels from OFT Racing.

Rear Wheel/Axle set.
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As you can see from these three photos the rear wheels had NO ice or snow buildup on them and performed flawlessly for me all day long!

I am uncertain if converting to the 2 wheel axle really made any noticeable difference in the ability to get the sled over on it's side or not. Need more time riding to know.
 
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While the rear wheels were great, I am much more concerned about the large Upper support wheels...

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The wheels on both sides of the sled are ENCASED in ice???

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At this point I am NOT sure why this is happening.
BUT...
I think it may have to do with the new Skinz Air Frame Boards I installed.
It's possible that the boards are allowing MUCH more snow to reach the wheel and cling to it.

Its also possible that the new Skinz Under The Tunnel Exhaust is generating significant amounts of liquid water from melted snow and this water is dripping down on the wheel and freezing.

This is something I will have to watch closely on my next ride to see if I can determine whats going on here.
 
It must be the Skinz Under The Tunnel Exhaust that is doing this,lots of water dripping down on the cold wheels turning to ice.
Cant think of anything else,it must be that.
Can you mount a skid under the exhaust so the water is lead away and dripping away from the weels.?
 
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