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injection delete first ride, lean

G

glaciermonkey

Member
09 m8 with 700 miles, slp y,pipe and can and slp high flow intake.

at 6000' after a hard pull i shut it down at full throttle to check the plugs. they looked so lean and barely tan that i went home very gently. much lighter than the color of cardboard. i mixed 32 -1 with redline.
before i checked the plugs on that ride i would say my sled was pulling harder than i have ever felt, the low end sputter and smoke show that i was hoping the oil delete would cure was gone.
i checked the plugs 3 more times on the way home and they looked lean until i got to the truck at which point the sled had loaded up from going down hil so much that the plugs had some color.

before the oil elimination my plugs were black but it ran good at full throttle. it would smoke first start of the day so bad you couldn't see the sled and i had to reseal the exhaust gasket every other ride to keep the oil from splattering all over the motor. also it would load up so bad going down hill that i was a problem to get moving again until it cleaned out.

so now i'm thinking about an adjustable fpr to raise my pressure, also considering an power commander because raising my fuel pressure might just bring back the low end bog. but if i get either of these it seems like a good idea to have egt's or an air fuel guage. my $30 oil delete is not looking so cool anymore when it could take another $700+ to make my sled safe

anyone have any input as far as direction, i don't want to settle for a low end bog, smoke bomb that runs good at wot

thanks for reading
 
Look at piston wash through the powervalve slot. It could be just fine even with whiter than normal plugs. A good tune will run a little white and still be considered safe. Don't be fooled by the "brown plug" theory. Read your wash and go off of it. If at all possible, avoid a box...... Going with oil delete will make it run a tad bit leaner, but I honestly have never had to actually compensate for it with more fuel. First thing I do to my sleds. It's a GREAT upgrade for cheap. Good luck!

Aaron
 
32 to 1....well this ain;t your problem but its an interesting fact you should know...

if you go to a 40 to 1 mix you have less oil in you gas which means more gas in your fuel to air mixture which mean a richer fuel/air mixture then the 32 to 1 which means the tan plugs you are looking for is more likely with the 40 to 1

But it is not the way to solve your issue ..lol..as its insignificant..and you don;t want oil deprivation..but the redline is amazing...i have run 40/1 redline on my delete for years...but you are likely better off with the 32to1 and the reason i say this is because Backcountryislife would black ball me if i don;t...lol..

i found that a bdx adjustable fuel pressure reg and a PureLogic control box is all i need and will easily suit your needs and its all easy..
 
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so now i'm thinking about an adjustable fpr to raise my pressure, also considering an power commander because raising my fuel pressure might just bring back the low end bog.

not if you lower your fuel pressure and use the Purelogic just to add fuel in the three ranges...oh...and you should have egts anyway...get the koso dual with the WELD in bungs.

But bottom line like the fella said in above post...if you didn;t need fuel controller or reg with your mods before the delete you sure shouldn;t need them after..
 
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thanks for the good replies guys. i'm going to the shop to check the wash. i think i would go back to oil injection before spending another $1000 this year.

i'm just a poor snowmobiler. haha
 
Odds are if you're lean now, you were a bit lean before as well.

32:1 oil (M8M&M... I've got no issue with 40, with a delete:face-icon-small-ton) means that approximately 3% of your fuel has been displaced by oil. This is equal to approximately 1.5 points on a BD box... a minimal change. The fact that your plugs were black before probably means you were getting a TON of oil (or you checked them after running in a rich zone on the oiler) I'd check wash like Aaron said, or be more concerned with the wetline on the plug as compared to the color. Different fuels & oils affect color significantly, but the wetline is usually (IMO) a good tell & tends to stay consistent.

Maybe post up a pic so some of the better motor guys then us can look & see how it appears to them.

fyi, my plugs are usually light tan, and my wash is pretty rich...

Don't put a reg on without first putting on a gauge to see what PSI you're at stock, otherwise you don't know where to adjust to. If you go that route, put gauge on, get baseline, install reg, then adjust to ~2 psi above stock baseline & see how it does.


Tried to shoot you a PM... if you need a cheap reg, PM me, I can help.
 
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Here is how my wash looked on my 08 M8 with full SLP setup after givin' er for a few thousand miles with no control box. I then deleted the oil injection, and added a attitude box and EGT's, as I was worried about running lean. It does not run lean, and I can run all day with the attitude box zeroed out. Heck, even zeroed, it will rarely crack 1100 degrees WOT.

Just food for thought.

P1010340.jpg
 
"before the oil elimination my plugs were black but it ran good at full throttle. it would smoke first start of the day so bad you couldn't see the sled and i had to reseal the exhaust gasket every other ride to keep the oil from splattering all over the motor. also it would load up so bad going down hill that i was a problem to get moving again until it cleaned out".


Wouldn't it have been easier to just turn down your oil pump? :noidea:
 
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This may be off but, oil fuel lean is WAY different than air fuel lean. Just something to keep in mind. Your plug color and piston wash are showing you air - fuel ratio, not oil - fuel ratio.
 
be more concerned with the wetline on the plug as compared to the color. Different fuels & oils affect color significantly, but the wetline is usually (IMO) a good tell & tends to stay consistent.

Another great way to tune. Actually a 2-1/2"-3" wet line out in your "Y" pipe is where you want to be at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and WOT. Pulling pipe to look is kind of a pain, but it will be very accurate.

Don't put a reg on without first putting on a gauge to see what PSI you're at stock, otherwise you don't know where to adjust to. If you go that route, put gauge on, get baseline, install reg, then adjust to ~2 psi above stock baseline & see how it does.

X2! You need to know where you run stock before putting it on.....


[/QUOTE]
 
i put a gauge on today, i'm at 45 psi in my shop at 1000'. also checked the piston wash through the pv holes. i think they had a little more color from the ride down but i could see the wash marks were about the size of a penny and there was a glossy light brown nearly clean line all the way around the circumference of the piston about 1/4" wide. i added 5 gallons of 42 to 1 to the existing 5 gallons of 32 to 1 in the tank. trying to get it closer to 40 to 1. there was plenty of wet in the pipe and y but again i think it is from the ride down.

someone asked, why not turn down the oiler? i might be wrong but that seems like at wide open throttle i would not be getting as much oil, but it might have taken away the low end smoke. to late now

everyone i talked to about this that has had any real experience seems to think i should be ok and to just keep an eye on it. i would like to have some egt's but i think i will have to wait for another paycheck or two. going riding in the morning, already 10" of new tonight and counting
 
Wouldn't it have been easier to just turn down your oil pump? :noidea:

Because the oiler is non linear in how it works, if you turn your overall oil ratio down, you're creating lean spots. Where you ran 40:1 today, the next day due to changes in riding, you may be running 55:1. Even if that's not a "problem" from a failure standpoint, you're not making the power you could be with a consistent oil mixture. Also, you've still got the oil tank & the pump that fails on occasion, or falls off the linkage... There's a reason so many of us get rid of the injection on these sleds.

The cat motors at least, like oil. They make more power with more oil (to an extent of course!). that may be counter-intuitive, but that's the reality of real world testing that many have done.
 
i was at 41 psi at 4000' according to the new fuel pressure gauge. was 45 at home. 41 is pretty low from what i have been able to learn. sled still loads up when i'm going down hill but it runs awesome otherwise.
 
Now that you know where stock is, write the numbers down and throw the regulator on. Try going up and down a couple psi and see how it does. Might just be able to dial it in without a box to deal with.............

Aaron
 
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