a wingnut works well on the top instead of a pin...but then it won't break as easily if you forget to take it out.
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Eric, My skis are all different, I believe the ones in the pic are Poo sidehillers ?,but I use dooly carbides on everything because they don't dart on icy trails. The scratcher marks always show up deeper than the carbide marks. I think a little tailoring for each would be helpful. I looked at a beautiful new set of Simmons skis yesterday and I thought round top and bottom plates might work best. Once you get them set they are ride and forget and if you do knock them off and you have some drilled bolts and clips in your pocket you are back in business in minutes.Thanks WolfGreat looking idea, I am a believer in keeping it simple. If your sled was on a stand and you put a straight edge along the bottom of your carbide, would the bolt head be above or below the bottom of the carbide?
Do you feel its widening the carbide track or cutting its own even deeper. I have been playing with ski scratcher ideas for over a year now, the challenge I run into most os all the different skis out there. It seems that having reverse has changed the rear profile of many OEM skis while aftermarkets like Simmons and SLP keep a fairly flat profile.
You mentioned in your earlier post that any longer or shorter didn't work so good. What ski was that based on?
Just to be clear, is the nut welded to the bottom plate still threaded, or did you drill it smooth bore so the bolt actuall has some travel? Do the 2 nuts stacked on the bottom act as stiffeners, or do they jam somehow and are just loose for the photo.
I will be giving this a try. My Dragon 163" melts hyfax in less than 100 yards if I don't have the ski scratchers down. "Necessity is the Mother of Invention", I guess you might be the Father. lol. Great post, thanks. EW
I would only assume that when they break off on a rock or log or what ever that you pick up the piece and throw it in your sled to take home. Just bustin' on ya. In all fairness, have tried a set-up like yours and the problem I had was when they did break, it was useless for the balance of the day. Have you tried the Slidekicks Reverse Compatible Scratchers yet?
Nice looking 12G!
Was it the E or F that was tough on the knuckles? I ran one for quite a bit....lovely!
They are only a soft 5/16 bolt and they bend or break in the snap pin hole. I have knocked a few off, even on my trailer ramp while loading off the ground and never have felt anything at all. I went over the bars once, dropping into a tree hole at 35 mph or so. I don't EVER take any chances on going over the bars again.