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I Can't Get It Up I Have a Limp Noodle

Hi There I am looking for some good advice from all of you PRO Owners. I am finding my rear shock is a bit of a limp noodle and has to much sag and would really like to replace it with something stiffer and firmer?

I have the 2013 PRO RMK 163" and I am a big guy 92 kg's and find I bottom out quite a bit and wish to upgrade. I see there are a few options on the market with Timbersled, FOX and other brands having rear shock replacement kits. I have been swaying towards the FOX Float R Evol as this looks clean and easy just the one shock. Although I would be really happy to hear about what other people think here before I drop $1000 or more on a new rear shock?

Cheers
Jason J:
 
I too am a big guy and I gave my stock suspension to a Offroad suspension specialist. He does all or motor cross bikes. Well I 250lbs and ride hard real hard. Save your money you just need a good suspension guy to do the proper valving. It doesn't bottom out and it actually reacts the same as my buddy's timber sled rear skid on his pro.. So Tyra re valve that's the best bang for your buck.
 
Being the owner of a 2013 Pro, and having tested with both a stock shock revalved, as well as the Walker Evans upgrade, with both std and stiffer springs, I feel I can offer some advice. The shock on your Pro can be revalved. The spring rate can be increased. These two changes should satisfy your needs. The Walker Evans Shock off the Assault would be an upgrade over and above the revalve on your std shock because off the remote reservior, hydraulic bottoming needle and offers a compression adjustment. The stiffer spring and revalve is pretty affordable. Before you dump a lot of money on another brand, don't discount the quality of the std stuff your sled came with. Just sayin :face-icon-small-win
 
Have you tried running through your favourite section of whoops and turn around and do it again, stop turn up rear spring one turn, do it again, stop turn up rear spring one turn, do it again, stop turn up spring one turn , do it again,,,,,.

Sooner than later you will find out if you need different valving.

IMO don't take advice from 11 or 12 owners (apples to oranges) when comparing stock. '13 valving ain't that bad as an all round stack. If you ride mostly whoops it can use a little less rebound on all 4 but not bad.
 
The 13 is def better than the 12 but the real problem is the geometry in the linkage, not so much the shocks. I did a revalve with the remote resi clickers and it was better. I liked to be able to tune the front shocks stiffer on deeper days. But the rear was really not good, just better. My buddy did the Raptors on the rear. Again, better but not great. The suspension still sags 1/3 of the way though the full range and then gets really stiff but it still bottoms out. I would get a full KMOD skid for $2650. Sell your skid for at least $1200. For barely the cost of a set of good shocks you are in heaven. Add the fronts for $1000, sell your stockers for $350-400 and you have the best suspension you can get for
about $2000. My revalve set up cost me $1000, it needed springs which are about $300 just to compare.
 
I weight almost the exact same as you 205lbs (93kg)

Best bang for buck would be to get the raptor triple rate firm springs...

Im on a 13 stock besides those and raptor clickers on the front and even though i avoid any trail... coming from motorcross, still when i see whoops i still like to get on it and skip over them and have no problems with bottoming out. I have some extra weight to... avy vest with crap in it and some tools and water in the underseat bag as well (stuffed underseatbag).
Jumping is fine to for not bottoming but I prefer to land in powder anyways :face-icon-small-coo

Mine are set exactly how Jake from Raptors papers say to start out at and are spot on like that, also if your still not happy just with the springs you can get his clickers and the springs will go right on to the shocks
 
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