I am Stumped help

[wyobob44]

I have been a long time member and have had multiple Ski-doos and not much I have not done to repair a sled , but this is Kicking my ass and giving me a headache. So last week end my riding partner (my wife) and i are riding , everything running smooth for about 45 mins, stop, shut off, 5 mins later take off, my 2009 XP Summit X, the dash flashes, gauges,(analog) bounce, so I stop, the gauges stabilize, we look, shrug and take off, i hit 4900-50000 rpm and the lights all light on the dash, the analog needles bounce, check engine light comes on and 3 beeps. NO Headlights,No Taillights, NoHandwarmer, no thumbwarmer. Still runs, so we jump on the trail and head for the truck, for 30 miles allI can think donot die.
Ido notice some strange things,,,,Drop the throttle, downhill, below 4800 rpm, gauges bounce (analog) and everything looks good, give it a little throttle —-3 beeps, check engine light, all lights on the gauge light up, and analog bounce and donot register and NOLights No brake Light, No Handwarmer,Nothumbwarmer, ..Get to the truck, shut off, Fuel, oil and it starts and everything is good, Load up go home...
Next day start Sled like every time for last 11 yrs, reverse and unload, drive way narrow so it is 4 back ups and 3 forwards of the awesome SKi-Doo reverse, I do Love this, then it DIES, soI do the Manual rollers and ask-my wife to help me push into the garage.

I-have tested the stator resistance, stator cranking voltage, voltage regulator cranking voltage, pins on connector at ECM, ECM Pins
All cranking values are within specs and maybe i have been working on this to long todAY, BUT I NEED some guidance, I really dont want to drag into the dealer, I know i am missing the smallest, but important test HELP,,HELP. what am i missing????”??????’//
Gets Better, before up on the hill, when trying to acccess any codes, i would hold the M and as soon as it started pressing the High Beam button,,, the dash would do a re-start, analog gauges bounce, all lights in dash light, NO P-Codes,,,,,,,WHAT the H3LL
I have. owned this sled from day 1, done everything to it, it is 1
of my TOYS,



I am Lost

 

[Skidoox]

Taillight Wires Chafing

I would check for a shorted wire on the tail light harness were the wire goes under the seat

or

Voltage Regulator Wires Chafing

Intermittent Electrical Fluctuations on XP's ​

We've had a few reports on fluctuations in electrical power on a few REV-XPTM model units. Dealers have reported finding the RD/BL wire contacting the frame in the area of the voltage regulator. The regulator and associated wiring can be found directly behind the chain-case and can be easily accessed by removing the after muffler. Simply repair any damage to the wiring. DC voltage is supplied through the regulator originating from the stator and the entire system is dependent a constant supply. Regulator output can be tested at any available RD/BL wire found in the chaincase area. We recommend the B.U.D.S. diagnostic port.

also
check the engine ground

 

[Daag44]

Tail light and voltage regulator wires chafing are definite possibilities. If it is related to the stator, remove the 15A fuse for the headlights. This will offload the stator and show if this is the problem.

 

[jcrjet]

I had one like that a few years ago. It's a chaffing wire somewhere between tank/seat bulkhead area. Sometimes it's difficult to find, but is most likely the culprit.

 

[Daag44]

I had one like that a few years ago. It's a chaffing wire somewhere between tank/seat bulkhead area. Sometimes it's difficult to find, but is most likely the culprit.

The early ones had the red wire from the VRR chafing against the rivet behind the chaincase and shorting to ground. Even without the rivet it can still wear the red wire and short to ground. The number of sleds it affected is unbelievable.

 

[BBP]

try a new relay. Check hand warmer connections.

 

[wyobob44]

so i have checked the wiring under the fuel tank, all good, no shorts to ground. Checked wiring at Voltage regulator, nothing contacting the rivet or tunnel, tested relay, working, checked both fuses with meter, tested kill switch, check for spark—nothing, test coil, within specs, test wires, they are out of spec, order new wires and now i am waiting for them to arrive on Wednesday.

 

[o2bncamo]

I have seen several XP's of that year have cracks in the solder at the base of the pins for the gauge cluster. Does all kind of weird intermittent things but always run fine.
just something else to check.

 

[bailer]

Moisture/poor connection in the tether cap would always intermittently mess the gauges up.

 

[Motorbreath_]

Check your pick-up coils to see if they are loose or if a wire is chaffed.

 

[xpturbo600]

Light it on fire, roll it down the hill, and claim insurance.

Just kidding. I see you mention everything but the battery. Try a new battery too. I had the same problem recently and that was the culprit under high load. Said another way, the battery could not supply the amperage to run everything under full load and voltage would drop low enough to make the computer think I shut off. When you let off and amperage goes down, the voltage increases again making the sled think it restarted.

Good luck.

 

[Motorbreath_]

Light it on fire, roll it down the hill, and claim insurance.

Just kidding. I see you mention everything but the battery. Try a new battery too. I had the same problem recently and that was the culprit under high load. Said another way, the battery could not supply the amperage to run everything under full load and voltage would drop low enough to make the computer think I shut off. When you let off and amperage goes down, the voltage increases again making the sled think it restarted.

Good luck.

How would the same sled without a battery function? do they come with different size stators?

 

[xpturbo600]

Looking back at my post, I remember a battery on a skidoo is the exception. I have a battery because my sled is a 600 sdi turbo, and sdi sleds use batteries to operate the ecu and fuel system. My dad's 800 etec uses a battery for the starter. Thinking about it, this may not be your problem and may be the confusion in your reply. If you don't have a battery, ignore my previous reply. The only way to address your issue if that is the case is to tear the sled down and chase each connector on the harness and exam it thoroughly. If the harness is good, and you have checked everything else, start replacing parts. Or, find a donar sled and start swapping things until it works. Then you can address the problem without ordering a bunch of parts. It is not fun, but that seems to be your only options unless you take it to someone who can diag the sled correctly. The main thing I worry about is whether a parts tests okay, so you think it is okay, but in reality it fails when the sled vibrates really hard.

 

[Motorbreath_]

Looking back at my post, I remember a battery on a skidoo is the exception. I have a battery because my sled is a 600 sdi turbo, and sdi sleds use batteries to operate the ecu and fuel system. My dad's 800 etec uses a battery for the starter. Thinking about it, this may not be your problem and may be the confusion in your reply. If you don't have a battery, ignore my previous reply. The only way to address your issue if that is the case is to tear the sled down and chase each connector on the harness and exam it thoroughly. If the harness is good, and you have checked everything else, start replacing parts. Or, find a donar sled and start swapping things until it works. Then you can address the problem without ordering a bunch of parts. It is not fun, but that seems to be your only options unless you take it to someone who can diag the sled correctly. The main thing I worry about is whether a parts tests okay, so you think it is okay, but in reality it fails when the sled vibrates really hard.

I'm not the original poster. Just curious about your logic behind the battery. I see what you mean now though, the 600sdi was a weird engine.. it needed a good battery. The OP didn't specify which engine is in his xp.. So its hard to say if this is something that he would need to look into. The 800 carb doesn't need a good battery, you can literally just take it off and go about your day.

 

[xpturbo600]

I have seen batteries go bad in a way where their voltage reads okay after having charged the battery, but for some reason the core has degraded to the point where it cannot store sufficient charge volume. In such cases, the battery will not be able to supply the minimum voltage under load. Unless there is a defect, this typically only happens in old batteries and/or those that dont get used much. My recent example occurred for me because after charging, the battery could not supply the minimum voltage under load, so it could not fire the ignition coils, and it would kill the sled. I swapped the battery and all was well again.

 

[Summit Seeker]

Check the Wires going to your Oil Pump, Very Closely.

 

[snobinge]

I had something similar on a Rev and it was bad battery.

 

[Devilmanak]

My wifey's 03.5 MXZ800 does strange stuff also. E-Start quit working, qauge does odd stuff. Everything I tested came out good. Even the battery. Even load testing it. It tested to spec. Then for sheets and greens I put a charger on the battery. Everything worked great for a day until the battery wonked out again. Makes NO sense. I also recently had a Freestyle with E-start, the starter didn't work. I swapped switches, tested everything. According to the meter, all was good. I threw a new (used) battery out of one of my Seadoos in it, problem solved. I am still using the "faulty" battery as a test battery, it acts normally.

 

[plumnuts]

or spend a little money and have the Doo dealer hook it up and see what the computer says

 

[Albee-Sledding]

so i have checked the wiring under the fuel tank, all good, no shorts to ground. Checked wiring at Voltage regulator, nothing contacting the rivet or tunnel, tested relay, working, checked both fuses with meter, tested kill switch, check for spark—nothing, test coil, within specs, test wires, they are out of spec, order new wires and now i am waiting for them to arrive on Wednesday.

I know this is a old thread but I have a sled that did the same thing. Noticed the dash dropping off and poping up again then last ride I had no lights, no dash and no reverse. Sled rode great till I shut it off way in the backcountry and wouldnt start. No spark. I have now replaced the stator, triggers, voltage regulator, coil and wires and still no spark and swapped ECM with another identical sled.
Just curious if you ever figured out what your problem was?