How to Resolve Belt Slipping in the Primary - M1K

[DonoBBD]

I did not notice an spacer droping out when I swapped the DD but I will check to see if it is in there at the same angle as the primary.

As far as the tortional system goes I had terrible shifting with the stock comression setup and have had great shifting with the tortional. The tortional gives me more consistent shifting and its adjustable so I can fine tune it. I could be wrong but I am going to stick with the tortional until I try a few changes with the primary. I am going to try backing off the spring in the secondary and maybe even try the red/white again to see if that helps with the heat.

How about some input on how much stiffer finish rates effect peak rpm.

For me and many others the more we moved the secondary in the faster the sled went. On my 05 and ten inch we did mill the back side of the secondary where it bases out on the off set shims. If milling some of this off is needed make sure you mill in side where the splines are so the top gear splines will not ramp together and stick the secondary on.

Just about every F turbo sled needed new motor mounts before cat started milling the secondary different. As long as the clutch will shift out and the inner bearing race will not hit the drive case your good.

I ran my 10" with out any shims in there right on the bearing for two years. No problems. Trust me when I say that all the gains the torsional set up is from the massive end cap to keep the bearings square under heavy load.

Check out the helix angles I am running 60/90 progressive. This is a 48/38 next to it.

Don.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Dono, I'm lost but like what I see. Who's helix and what sled. I'm just not quite catching on to what you are saying.

 

[Evolution Powersports]

I wonder if there is anything to the "spacerless" secondary sitting against the bearing. On my 09 M10, there is No spacers whatsoever between the secondary and the DD bearing and I have had no belt problems whatsoever.

On the other hand, my brothers 08 M10 does have belt issues, but we have not checked the alignment and taken off the clutch.

Anyone elese find no spacers behind their secondary?

For me and many others the more we moved the secondary in the faster the sled went. On my 05 and ten inch we did mill the back side of the secondary where it bases out on the off set shims. If milling some of this off is needed make sure you mill in side where the splines are so the top gear splines will not ramp together and stick the secondary on.

Just about every F turbo sled needed new motor mounts before cat started milling the secondary different. As long as the clutch will shift out and the inner bearing race will not hit the drive case your good.

I ran my 10" with out any shims in there right on the bearing for two years. No problems. Trust me when I say that all the gains the torsional set up is from the massive end cap to keep the bearings square under heavy load.

Check out the helix angles I am running 60/90 progressive. This is a 48/38 next to it.

Don.

 

[killerrf]

I wonder if there is anything to the "spacerless" secondary sitting against the bearing. On my 09 M10, there is No spacers whatsoever between the secondary and the DD bearing and I have had no belt problems whatsoever.

On the other hand, my brothers 08 M10 does have belt issues, but we have not checked the alignment and taken off the clutch.

Anyone elese find no spacers behind their secondary?

on my '09 m1 i had one 0.030" spacer i believe behind the secondary. the old cat bar for the jackshaft sleds have a offset of 1.550" and i think for the DD should be 1.507" like others have stated. i just took the shim out and it got me close. cant move the secondary in any more without machining which im not going to bother. only 370 miles but no blown belts. most of this is on the xs817.

 

[gopher-it!]

helix

Dono, I'm lost but like what I see. Who's helix and what sled. I'm just not quite catching on to what you are saying.

also who's end cap?

 

[winter brew]

If you must keep the tortional, loosen up that green spring for sure! Or play with the red/white and then adjust primary weight and spring.
You say the secondary is working great....but it's not. Not saying the tortional is the issue, but the calibration is. If it was working good, the heat would not be an issue. To me, working good means it is working in sync with the primary.....it isn't....it is overpowering your primary and holding back the upshift (aka too much backshift signal).

 

[DonoBBD]

also who's end cap?

IT is part of the helix as well as a 500# spring. Ya no Chit a 500# spring.

Check your IM. Not sure if i can post a product for sale in here.

Don.

EDIT: Yes the more I moved the secondary in the faster the sled went.