Figured I would do a quick how to on the BDX fuel pressure regulator installation. It’s pretty straight forward but without a little direction it may be a little confusing to some at first. I did this install on my 2011 M8 HCR. Think all the m-series are the same.
Reference (numbers) to parts Fuel Pump Parts Diagram.
1. Make sure the gas level is below where the fuel pump wires come into the tank.
2. Removed the cover from the steering post hoop. This gains you access to the fuel pump wire connection. Disconnect wires.
3. Remove the 15/16 nut (8) where the fuel pump wires go into the tank. Remove the washer (7) and gasket washer (6).
4. Remove the fuel line. And the 15/16 hose barb (4) from tank.
5. Remove gas cap and pull white plastic ring from tank neck. Pull fuel pump and pickup lines from tank.
6. I pulled the pickup lines (10) off the fuel pump at the base of the pump. But it’s not totally necessary. If you do pull them make sure to check the orientation of the hose to the pump. It’s very critical that it goes back in the exact same spot. This keeps the pickup where they need to be in the bottom of the tank.
7. Drill off the two rivets heads holding the OEM regulator on with a 11/64 or 3/16 drill bit. Use a small punch to pop the heads off. And a small punch to punch the back of the rivet (shop head) out of the hole. Pull the old regulator off. The O-rings kind of hold in on there. Make sure no metal shaving enter the exposed holes. And that the two O-rings don’t fall out.
8. Install new BDX regulator and install two screws where rivets used to be. The flat part of the regulator goes down to clear the pump wires.
9. Reinstall in tank. Making sure the two gaskets (2) and (5) are still installed on the brass fitting of the pump assembly.
10. If you also bought the gauge and adapter from BDX. Make sure to remove the O-ring (3) from the old hose barb and install it into the grove on the new adapter.
Like I said it’s pretty straight forward. But I was a little unsure at first of where to begin. And the web didn’t really have the answers. So I figured I would write a quick how to for everyone looking to do this on their m-series.
Mine was preset to 40p.s.i. I adjusted it to 44p.s.i. for the initial test run. Figured that was right in the middle of factory spec of 42-47. Haven’t had a chance to test it yet. So I don’t have a final number. But I’m sure it will be a lot less than the 67p.s.i. that the oem one was stuck at.
Reference (numbers) to parts Fuel Pump Parts Diagram.
1. Make sure the gas level is below where the fuel pump wires come into the tank.
2. Removed the cover from the steering post hoop. This gains you access to the fuel pump wire connection. Disconnect wires.
3. Remove the 15/16 nut (8) where the fuel pump wires go into the tank. Remove the washer (7) and gasket washer (6).
4. Remove the fuel line. And the 15/16 hose barb (4) from tank.
5. Remove gas cap and pull white plastic ring from tank neck. Pull fuel pump and pickup lines from tank.
6. I pulled the pickup lines (10) off the fuel pump at the base of the pump. But it’s not totally necessary. If you do pull them make sure to check the orientation of the hose to the pump. It’s very critical that it goes back in the exact same spot. This keeps the pickup where they need to be in the bottom of the tank.
7. Drill off the two rivets heads holding the OEM regulator on with a 11/64 or 3/16 drill bit. Use a small punch to pop the heads off. And a small punch to punch the back of the rivet (shop head) out of the hole. Pull the old regulator off. The O-rings kind of hold in on there. Make sure no metal shaving enter the exposed holes. And that the two O-rings don’t fall out.
8. Install new BDX regulator and install two screws where rivets used to be. The flat part of the regulator goes down to clear the pump wires.
9. Reinstall in tank. Making sure the two gaskets (2) and (5) are still installed on the brass fitting of the pump assembly.
10. If you also bought the gauge and adapter from BDX. Make sure to remove the O-ring (3) from the old hose barb and install it into the grove on the new adapter.
Like I said it’s pretty straight forward. But I was a little unsure at first of where to begin. And the web didn’t really have the answers. So I figured I would write a quick how to for everyone looking to do this on their m-series.
Mine was preset to 40p.s.i. I adjusted it to 44p.s.i. for the initial test run. Figured that was right in the middle of factory spec of 42-47. Haven’t had a chance to test it yet. So I don’t have a final number. But I’m sure it will be a lot less than the 67p.s.i. that the oem one was stuck at.
