How to fix damaged rail

[fishtank]

Ok, here goes, I hope you understand what im on about.

So we were checking things over and came across an issue with the left side rail.

See attached pic, Part # 6 has bascially snapped off the end of part # 1 and part # 1 has worn straight through part # 7.

Thats all fine but while this was left unattended part # 1 has been shaking around in its hole (see the arrow in pic) and now the hole is more like an oval or egg shape. 2-3 times the size it should be.

Any suggestions on fixing this up? Could we somehow weld a plate over the hole on both sides and re-drill the hole? Someone else suggested JB Weld? I really dont want to have to buy another rail.

This exact same thing happened to a mates 2004 Mtn Cat, so we have two to fix up before winter gets here. Is this a weak point of some sort in the design?

Anyone else see/had this happen to them?

 

[1Mike900]

Every now and then you need to check the tightness of the nuts as they can loosen over time and wallow out holes. I have both idler wheel assy's as I took them off Part # 7 and a whole host of suspension components that I modified along the way. You could open the hole in the rail and install a bronze bushing to take up the slop? Or weld if need be?

Mike

 

[Rixster]

On both of mine i have tossed the wheels and part number 7 in the parts box. I then installed a shorter bolt there and installed ice scratchers close to that point.

 

[2zeros]

Welding? I wouldnt.

When you weld aluminum you will lose any heat treating and they will be soft. I would buy a new rail or build a bushing, not weld. Good Luck!

 

[Idcatman3]

I've seen egged out holes welded up before with no issues. I'm not sure there is any heat treatment on the rails, although you're right, it would be compromised if there is.

Also though, like Rixster said, you can just remove the forward wheels and run ice scratchers as long as you pay attention to them.

 

[sunbather1969]

easy way

buy new shaft and nut . Buy new idler mounts and run it . Problem solved unless its a show machine and when done take off all nuts and locktite them for sure. BEEN THERE DONE THAT

 

[Idcatman1]

rail repair

Look up Catfix here on snowest. He makes a repair kit that looks pretty sharp. I know I have seen other kits for sale, maybe on ebay. I will post here if I find it.

 

[Idcatman1]

rails

Just dawned on me what Rixster was talking about. Just moving or removing the front wheels won't fix the problem. This hole is where the front shock shaft mounts to the rails as well and it can't very well be moved to a different hole without messing up geometry. Catfix's kit solves the problem.

 

[fishtank]

Also though, like Rixster said, you can just remove the forward wheels and run ice scratchers as long as you pay attention to them.

So those idler wheels arent even neccessary? Why the ice scratchers? I already have ice scratchers on the sled.

 

[fishtank]

buy new shaft and nut . Buy new idler mounts and run it . Problem solved unless its a show machine and when done take off all nuts and locktite them for sure. BEEN THERE DONE THAT

Sorry man I dont quite understand what your saying here.

"Problem solved unless its a show machine and when done take off all nuts and locktite them for sure." What do you mean by this? Show machine?

 

[Idcatman1]

rail repair

Here is the kit on ebay. Item number 250727080407

 

[sunbather1969]

rails

if you replace the idler mounts and shaft and nut then the new mounts are bearing the load . And keep an eye on them and always use blue locktite to keep stuff like that tight.

 

[fishtank]

On both of mine i have tossed the wheels and part number 7 in the parts box. I then installed a shorter bolt there and installed ice scratchers close to that point.

Removing these wheels and installing ice scratchers? Why remove the wheels? Are they not needed? Why install the scratchers? Something to support the Cap Screw that the rear suspension connects to?

 

[fishtank]

Also, we were thinking of trying out JB "cold" Weld on the hole and see how that goes. Anyone think this might be an option or would we be wasting our time! Anyone used JB Weld before?

 

[1M900]

I have many times, but i prefer to use it on plastic and parts that are not under a lot of stress. I wouldnt use it to repair the hole, I think it will wallow very quickly or just break out and then youre back to where youre at now. Take the rail off and lay it on a bench, take a piece of flat iron and vise grip it to the rail behind the hole (aluminum wont weld to this and prevents a blowout during welding), then carefully fill the hole (may have to do from both sides) in with a TIG welder using a pure tungsten electrode and on the AC setting at about 150 amps, let cool by itself, do not dump water on it. Then remove the sheet, grind flat, and redrill hole, good as new!

 

[Catfix]

Rail fix

Welding will soften the rails and the problem will come back even worse especially where the bolt threads are on the one side, I guarantee my kit for three years, and installation only takes about 30 minutes, with a minimal amount of dis-assembly of the suspension.

 

[fishtank]

Hmm, decisions decisions. So your kit basically takes all the strain off the rail and transfers it more to the kit. The new holes drilled on the rails arnt going to end up wallowing out as well are they?

 

[Catfix]

It's a very solid assembly, I haven't had any reported problems.

 

[fishtank]

Will your part work well with wallowed holes this size and possibly worse?

 

[Catfix]

Yes, I've fixed them when there as bad as the picture on the right without a problem. if your buddy's is much worse than that it might be questionable.