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Polarismaster26
Member
I want to throw one on my sled this year and was wanting to know who likes it and your set up?
Thanks
Thanks
How Many Of You Run Camo Plast X 2.5?
- Thread starter Polarismaster26
- Start date
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Polarismaster26
Member
I hear a lot of people saying to drop and roll and my dealer and others say there is no need to. I don't mind paying for a drop and role but my dealer charges so much to install and i know it is a pain.
Food for thought.... Many people believe that "able to fit" and proper clearance are the same thing.
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MNSLEDNECK56308
Well-known member
09 Assault, timber skid, holz drop and roll, 2.5 camo rocks!
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600xc4me
Well-known member
I haven't run it yet, but will be this winter. If you do run it, I would recommend a drop and roll for sure. It fit's with out one, but your clearance is very tight. And because of that you loose a bunch of the gains you would have had by installing the track in the first place.
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theshadowrider
Well-known member
Is there any other way? Can you change the drivers to a smaller ones to give you more clearance or is a drop and roll still the best way?
I have one on my 09 dragon, I did not do a drop and roll, I put a 19/42 in it for gears and it flat out ripps. you would probably gain some by dropping the chaincase but it will fit and work great. especially for our area you its the best mod for the sled
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600xc4me
Well-known member
I'm sure you could, but I didn't look into that at all. I would just drop and roll, you gain a lot more than just tunnel clearance when going with a drop and roll. It improves your approach angle, which helps the sled not a trench as much, and over all improves your sleds climbing abilities. Run a stock sled with just the CE, and a stock sled with a CE and D&R and you'll see a big difference in performance.
Another reason I don't like smaller drivers is it makes the track take a tighter turn up front, which might make it roll a bit harder, but also causes your track to heat up a lot more, which can in time compromise the life of your track.
Will be doing the Holz drop on the same sled to gain some clearance etc but keep the stock track. It worked very well for me last season. Sled went like a rocket. Floated great and no trenching issues. Have to stop somewhere with the cost of upgrades and changes and I guess this is it? Not convinced that the CEX 163 will make that big of a difference for my riding, 90% boondocking. Hope I am making the right decision?
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Polarismaster26
Member
I don't mind paying for the drop and roll, but i am not gonna pay my dealer the cash to do it either. And i have seen that it is a big project to do.
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600xc4me
Well-known member
Go Holz then. Not to complex to install. Big job yes, but not that bad. I'm 17 and installed mine myself. So you know it's not to bad.
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Hbmtr
Well-known member
I want to give mad props to the seventeen year old kid that did this mod.I am a 25 year marine mechanic. After much debate on wether this a worth while mod to do plus the CE ,i gave it a shot.Not that bad at all sure you are cutting holes and grinding away at your machine but the r and d is already done for you in the Holz d,r.my point is this.If you read the directions its pretty straight forward,plus there is customer support from Holz,or just look on sw and look at the pics that are on the IQ forum.I used them aaalot!!!!!!
I have a full season on mine...08 163 with 2.5 extreme,Fastrax D&R, holz suspension/skid, 19/42 gears, good clutching, slp single, vf reeds, and some other things..night and day difference between the extreme and the 5.1 2 ply track..even in champayne powder I feel the extreme out performs the 5.1 2 ply...and it certainly does in all other conditions....a close friend ran the 2.5 extreme on his mod edge last season with smaller drivers and no D&R..sleds remained very equal in all conditions up till the 3+ ft. powder days..in those conditions my sled made his look like a shorty with a 1.5 paddle...he spent most of the day stuck in the bottoms...trenching like crazy......where as I could creep and crawl at will...we both agreed that the results on the deep days were a direct result of the better aproach angle of the D&R...
Now for the install...personally I think anybody with a little wrench savvy should have no problems installing the kit...the holz kit is slightly easier since you dont mess with the suspension mnts..but Curt(Fastrax) includes clear precise instructions and templates that make the mods simple...get all your parts togeather, invite a few of your better wrenching buddies over for a few nights of beer drinking, pizza and some help...oh yeah, one other benifit to fastrax's D&R..the way Curt moves the rear suspension mnts actually makes the sled handle and ride better then it did stock...it keeps the ski's down better, the rear suspension sits up better instead of sagging, and it handles bumps quite a bit better...hope this helps you decide on which way to go...
Now for the install...personally I think anybody with a little wrench savvy should have no problems installing the kit...the holz kit is slightly easier since you dont mess with the suspension mnts..but Curt(Fastrax) includes clear precise instructions and templates that make the mods simple...get all your parts togeather, invite a few of your better wrenching buddies over for a few nights of beer drinking, pizza and some help...oh yeah, one other benifit to fastrax's D&R..the way Curt moves the rear suspension mnts actually makes the sled handle and ride better then it did stock...it keeps the ski's down better, the rear suspension sits up better instead of sagging, and it handles bumps quite a bit better...hope this helps you decide on which way to go...
The Drop is still the best way...
BUT...
You can run the Camplast Challenger Extreme 2.5" in the 156" or 162" on the 155" & 163" Rails and the New Series Avid 7 Tooth combo drivers and have decent clearance.
I'm running the 7-tooth 3" pitch Avids with the Power Claw HCR track this season.
The 156" and 162" tracks are 3" pitch which allows you to use the 3" pitch 7-tooth drivers... 7-tooth drivers are not available in the 2.86" pitch (standard 2007+ RMK pitch)
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To be fair... sincere question here... Did you test the stock track after the D&R/suspension and other mods to your sled?
To be honest eric..yes and no..I did run all the suspension and stuff with the 5.1 before I did the track/D&R upgrade ....but the D&R and track went on togeather...but I do ride with other dragons running several combos of tracks/D&R's, and suspensions/skids....performance among the group changed once the tracks and D&R's entered the equation...until then performance remained pretty balanced as a whole with one setup having a better performance over others in certain conditions..the extreme has outperformed its predecessor on every sled we have installed it on and raised that sleds performance when compared to sleds it used to be equal to...I know you prefer the PC..and that was the route I started to go..but after riding with/on the cats that had it on..I felt it gave up quite a bit in many snow conditions we ride in compared to the extreme...mainly sugar snow and our super deep champayne powder that we get down south...Doug on his 2.5 camo x and fastrax D&Red 07 700 dragon gave some cat guys(as well as us polaris and doo riders) a clinic the first year he did his..over the course of 4 weekends in 4 different areas with 4 different snow textures(all powder)he consistently took his sled where no one else could think of going...as for the performance increase in deep snow..I think the drop and roll kits out there(built by reputable companies like holz and fastrax) have been well documented by enough riders to verify that they do indeed improve performance in steep/deep snow..as for the tracks..camo x or power claw..both seem to be the top draw in todays market..either one should make any sled better then what it wore stock....
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600xc4me
Well-known member
On the topic of 3" pitch drivers, big reason why I wasn't even interested in any set up other then a D&R and a 155 challenger extreme, was because I wanted to keep the stock 2.86 pitch. Reason being, the way the 2.86 tracks are made, makes them less prone to failing/loosing paddles. Camoplast said them selves the 2.86 tracks is a better track then the 2.52 or 3 inch pitch tracks. Figured I would throw that in as well. Just one more thing to consider.
Actually, That stament came from Bruce at TracksUSA...
The 2.86 pitch tracks are made in 1 piece on a drum... the other pitches are done in sections and , I believe, vulcanized together...
In most applications not a problem... look at all the Yamaha and Cat sleds out there with 3" pitch tracks that dont have issues.
In the end, the 2.86" pitch tracks are probalby slightly more durable... for for most situations, it really doesn't come into play.
The Dropped shaft with 8 tooth larger IS a better way to go... I was just pointing out that there are other alternatives as well
Just my 2 cents.
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600xc4me
Well-known member
I thought there had been a topic posted by Camoplast them selves on this? Maybe I'm mistaken. Wouldn't be the first time. Yes there are a lot running with out issues. LOTS. But I have also heard of quite a few WITH issues. Not just on SW. I mean chances are you'll be fine, but I liked the idea of the 2.86 being stronger. And since that allows me to use stock drivers, it was a no brainer for me after considering all the aspects. I'm not dissing your post, I just thought it might be worth mentioning.
