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How important are good heated grips to you?

off road rider

SnoWest Paid Sponsor
Premium Member
I get asked an awful lot about heated grips.
In the past they have been pretty unreliable with wires that break and that ceramic block that gets cracked etc, not to mention they just don't work to great.
We have found some, as others have, that are really good and eliminate all of the issues listed above

We are looking at becoming a distributor for AME Heated grips.
The plan is to offer a kit that has the Penetrator headlight and a set of grips with our multi function switch. It will allow a rider to run the grips with the light on or run the grips and run the lights separately, Some bikes will power both at the same time, others will power one at a time, all EFI bikes will power the 300 series light and a set of grips.
The catch is they are not cheap, Grips alone retail at 139.95
like most things you get what you pay for.
The kit should give a slight break on all products.

The new switch and grips will be usable on existing Cyclops lighting setups.
Is it worth it to you?
 
I just checked those grips out . They really good. A good set up like would be awsome. I had stick on ones and they don't work that great. If they worked really good then I would say they are important.
 
We ride in some really cold temps here grips are a must.. I just put the ame grips on an Darryl's led light.. Grips work awesome very well built an worth the extra dollars.. I replaced my grips a few times on my nytro always breaking wires an not enough heat etc.. These put out the heat

image.jpg
 
I think it really depends on the rider. If I work/ride in the cold (which for me is below 40 degrees) it takes about 5 minutes for me to not feel my hands. I must have bad circulation or something. At about 20 degrees it takes about 30 seconds. So they are very important for me. In fact im looking at getting some for early spring and late fall enduro riding. But I pretty sure most people don't have that much of an issue with the cold as I do. With that being said I can do -10 with a light pair of wool socks outside with non insulated boots for an entire work shift and my feet are fine. Really odd but I like warm grips. I think the hand covers work better. But in conjunction with grips its like my heated seat in the car. Could live without it, but sure wouldn't want to.

$140 for grips that work doesn't seem like much. Snowbike kits are soaring over 5k plus a 7k bike. I don't see as grips which offer incredible utility would be an issue for most as long as they work.
 
This seems like a win win even on the sled side of things. As I was looking to get your Penetrator light anyway for my three PRO RMK's and possibly my IQR's also. Being a mechanic / welder my hands have been customized more than most and the circulation has suffered in the process. As we ride in 40 to 50 below quite often harm hand are a must. Looking forward to what you come up with.
 
I would be more then happy to pay a little extra for a light/ heated grip combo that works well on my 2011 YZ450. I wasn't sure if I could wire both up and have enough power without a battery and the stock stator. This would be a kit I would buy! I hate frozen hands and riding with the moon as a head light!!
 
sounds great! with efi Yamaha benig able to run grips during the day safely and then have the option of turning the grips off and turn on my penetrator 610 if the sun goes down sounds good! I would get the dual switch and the grips in a heartbeat! Cyclops rules!
 
I put some cheapo under-the-grip heating elements on last year before the snowbiking season and they worked well enough, but most of the time I wanted them to be warmer. Using gauntlets seemed to help quite a bit. I was surprised, though, how many times I turned them on when I was dirt biking in the summer on cold days or after the sun went down. Just like e-start and other luxuries -- I never thought I needed heated grips on my dirt bike, but once you've had it it's hard to go back. :face-icon-small-win

These upgraded heated grips could be in my future...
 
I got the verry first pair last season,,hot out of the mold! Had a few fitting problems ! But sure thats worked out now! The biggest complaint is the extra wire from the heater to the switch need to find a way to make the switch easier to mount,I could have cut and spliced but then it would have looked hokie!but really good heat as it does NOT heat the bar it all goes to your hand and it will burn you!
 
So any info on them yet. How much do the grip warmers take power wise(watts). I need to see if my 250f has enough juice for them. Also are they grips or just the element. Not a big deal but I do have grip preferences.

http://www.amegrips.com/motorcycleoffroadheated/heated-road-motorcycle-grips

They say they will initially pull 38-40 watts then drop to around 20 watts once they reach operating temps.

I ran these last year:

http://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-warm-wrap-grips.html

They worked fine but would twist on the grip no matter how tight you got them. The total diameter of the grips with them on was a little wider than I prefer as well. The nice thing is they didn't lose heat to the bar since they run on top of your grips.

I am going to give the AME grips a try this year. I like that I can easily swap them in the summer with my ODI Lock-On grips.
 
I have some questions about power.

I recently completed quite a bit of research on the stators and power consumption on my 450 SXF. I've asked a lot of people, you included, on what I can run and what I can't. So far the consensus seems to be I should be able to run a light or warmers independently (both not running at the same time) without any issue. The Penetrator 6XX series lights draw 30watts and the grip warmers also pull around 35watts on average.

This year is my first year ever on a bike that has no kick start so I feel that my research is important so that I am not left out in the woods due to pulling too much energy and not allowing my bike battery to properly charge between starts. What I found is that my bike, the 13 450 SXF, generates around 60-65watts DC. The bike consumes during normal operation around 45watts. The average surplus in power over normal bike operation is around 20watts. So, knowing this information, how in the heck can I run a light or grip warmers and still have enough power to charge my battery? And seeing that the operation of either of these devices is clearly over the surplus what exactly am I pulling power from?

Every thread I have read on KTMTalk, ThumperTalk, and after a conversation with a certified KTM technician, I am led to believe that I should NOT add these items to this specific bike. But the devil on my shoulder says "The KX450F runs the lights without problem, what gives?". I would be more inclined to run them without question if I had a kick starter, but I don't. I would maybe consider stator replacement but apparently they don't make one for my specific bike (at least Trail Tech doesn't as I've been told). Even if I could find a new stator I don't see the financial sense in spending $450 on a stator to power a $175 grip warmer. Wiring and power are something I am admittedly a novice with... so please forgive my newb-ness regarding my questions.

Truth be told, I can totally live without grip warmers. 3 pairs of really nice gloves are with me on every ride and I can't think of a time I've had overly cold fingers. The light is something I really want to run and leave on during every ride. And yes, we can get into "Well, dumba$$, you should have bought an X since it can power those things!". I chose my bike for reasons that I've explained in the past, not for accessories. I can live without these things and be happy.... but I would add them if the stock bike could handle it. Just make me understand how it won't leave me dead in the water when riding 30 miles back in the woods.

Thanks!
 
A fuel pump and cdi takes 45 watts? I don't think so.
A ktm factory mech is usually not up on e power availability. Nor are very many others. Its just not a subject they are trained on.
The KTm does have one of the weakest stators. You can run one or the other (as far as the 600 series goes), with the 300 series light you can run both.
These hand warmers take about 40 watts at start up then drop to approx. 20 watts.
There are an awful lot of guys on KTM SX EFI bikes running the 600 penetrator. as well as a lot of guys using heated grips.





I have some questions about power.

I recently completed quite a bit of research on the stators and power consumption on my 450 SXF. I've asked a lot of people, you included, on what I can run and what I can't. So far the consensus seems to be I should be able to run a light or warmers independently (both not running at the same time) without any issue. The Penetrator 6XX series lights draw 30watts and the grip warmers also pull around 35watts on average.

This year is my first year ever on a bike that has no kick start so I feel that my research is important so that I am not left out in the woods due to pulling too much energy and not allowing my bike battery to properly charge between starts. What I found is that my bike, the 13 450 SXF, generates around 60-65watts DC. The bike consumes during normal operation around 45watts. The average surplus in power over normal bike operation is around 20watts. So, knowing this information, how in the heck can I run a light or grip warmers and still have enough power to charge my battery? And seeing that the operation of either of these devices is clearly over the surplus what exactly am I pulling power from?

Every thread I have read on KTMTalk, ThumperTalk, and after a conversation with a certified KTM technician, I am led to believe that I should NOT add these items to this specific bike. But the devil on my shoulder says "The KX450F runs the lights without problem, what gives?". I would be more inclined to run them without question if I had a kick starter, but I don't. I would maybe consider stator replacement but apparently they don't make one for my specific bike (at least Trail Tech doesn't as I've been told). Even if I could find a new stator I don't see the financial sense in spending $450 on a stator to power a $175 grip warmer. Wiring and power are something I am admittedly a novice with... so please forgive my newb-ness regarding my questions.

Truth be told, I can totally live without grip warmers. 3 pairs of really nice gloves are with me on every ride and I can't think of a time I've had overly cold fingers. The light is something I really want to run and leave on during every ride. And yes, we can get into "Well, dumba$$, you should have bought an X since it can power those things!". I chose my bike for reasons that I've explained in the past, not for accessories. I can live without these things and be happy.... but I would add them if the stock bike could handle it. Just make me understand how it won't leave me dead in the water when riding 30 miles back in the woods.

Thanks!
 
So any info on them yet. How much do the grip warmers take power wise(watts). I need to see if my 250f has enough juice for them. Also are they grips or just the element. Not a big deal but I do have grip preferences.


These are the entire grip, one thing that I like is that they are near the same size as most MX grips.
What 250F and year do you have?

We have the switches in stock and the grips should be here late next week. I cant put them on the site until everything is in place.
But if someone wants the switch we can get that going anytime
 
A fuel pump and cdi takes 45 watts? I don't think so.
A ktm factory mech is usually not up on e power availability. Nor are very many others. Its just not a subject they are trained on.
The KTm does have one of the weakest stators. You can run one or the other (as far as the 600 series goes), with the 300 series light you can run both.
These hand warmers take about 40 watts at start up then drop to approx. 20 watts.
There are an awful lot of guys on KTM SX EFI bikes running the 600 penetrator. as well as a lot of guys using heated grips.

Appreciate the response. So does anyone know the math and numbers on these bikes? For my knowledge I would love to know how much power the bike draws during operation. Just as with our issue when we hunted down the science behind the timing switch for the SXF... not only do I want to know IF it works or not, but HOW. It's my inner nerd being channeled in these cases.
 
Grips are alittle bigger than normal mx grips but not by much. Don't care for the big connectors for each grip but they work. Each grip has its own on/off switch an temp adjustment which is nice.

photo (8).jpg
 
Rush,

Dont forget that Gen4 on there, they dont use a ton of energy once the heater in the sensor is powered up, BUT, they do draw some as well.

too many accesories!
 
Rush,

Dont forget that Gen4 on there, they dont use a ton of energy once the heater in the sensor is powered up, BUT, they do draw some as well.

too many accesories!

Chris told me the controller pulls 4watts during warmup and 2watts after. Not a lot of draw but something to consider.
 
Remember that a stator is usually rated at an idle. So riding around should give more power. Also cant you just pick up a larger stator through trail tech. They make really good ones.

To answer your question. Take a multimeter and measure the voltage and amperage at the battery as the bike is running. Multiply together and you got total watts be removed from the system. I think this should work but Im not fully sure but that should be the total draw as I would think all electro things on the FI bikes would go to the battery for electron magic.

Then you can do the same for the lead coming from the stator and see what it is really making. I like how the old ktms had to power poles, never had to worry then as the ignition was on it own circuit.


Oh and my bike is a 12 ktm 250sxf.
 
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