How do I break in new sled (motor) in the mountains

[pigsticker]

Hello all,

I am new to this site and had a question in regards to mountain riding and breaking in a new engine. I just purchased a new 2013 Polaris 800 Switchback Assault and was wondering about the routine for breaking it in properly. It seems that there are quite a few different opinions on how to do it from heat cycles to getting out and riding it in the ditches. My problem is i'm out of time to do this before the trip so it's gonna have to happen in the mountains.

I have added the oil to the fuel but my dilemma is this: I assume i'm supposed to have my mountain weights in since I am going to be at 8-10K feet but a couple people I know said not to put the weights in because it may cause too high of RPMs for the break in cycle. I don't know what the proper thing to do is and the manual doesn't tell me. Any of you experienced mountain riders ever break in your new sleds up at higher elevation and whats the procedure/method?

Thanks for the help in advance!

 

[dragoon13]

heat cycle a few times then hold it to the bars once your in the mountains

 

[freeflorider]

heat cycle a few times then hold it to the bars once your in the mountains

Yah this sounds about right!! Id Just tap it cool for the first bit, no big pulls or big revs. Couple hours out and your good to go.

 

[SLEDIOT]

Throw 250 ml of oil in ur tank for 3 rides. See that throttle thingy on the right? Clamp it!!!! warranty will look after any other upcoming issues.................

 

[skibreeze]

You need to put in the proper weights for the correct rpm regardless of anything else.

 

[pigsticker]

Yah this sounds about right!! Id Just tap it cool for the first bit, no big pulls or big revs. Couple hours out and your good to go.

Should I put in the mountain weights and spring?

 

[norsepeak]

clutch it for the elevation and flog the crap out of it.

 

[smv sledhead]

Ride it like you stole it.

 

[joshkoltes]

Prior to an actual ride I like to idle it till the thermostat opens a few times. Then when out put down the trail a half mile or so. Pin it and hold two seconds, cut throttle coast to about 20. Pin and hold two, cut repeat for a bit till your sick of it
And most definitely put in the mtn setup for the mtns or else you will only get about 6000 rpm

 

[allied1]

I think it came stock with 140/330 primary spring and 10-62 weights. Leave the spring stock and install 10-60's for 8-10k. I would put it through several GOOD heat cycles(4-5) before you leave. Be nice to it for a couple of hrs but like others have said, you want to put it through all rpm ranges, just don't wot and hold it there right out of the chute. Add oil, 1 pint per tank, all the time. Did your dealer turn up the oil pump? If not, I'd have them do it. 2-3 turns up. Every time you start the sled, warm it up good before ripping off with it. This goes for loading & unloading, all aspects of needing rpm's. On breaks when you shut it off for longer periods of time, watch the temps before you blast. This is all simple procedure but I see a lot of people not doing this but will cry when their engine take a sh!t on them. Warranty is warranty but a little self help goes a long way and could save you a long tow out of the back country. Good luck.

 

[Himark]

No need to re-weight the sled. Just heat cycle it like stated.

Trail ride it using variable throttle positions.

Start out easy up to 4-5k for 1 minute, throttle back to idle let idle for a minute or two do another 2 minute run at mid throttle, go back to idle. Do this several times and after each time step up the high end until you reached wot. When you reach wot do it in short bursts. You should do this for a minimum of 30 minutes and I would take it easy doing these procedures for at least an hour before letting it rip. **edit I would most likely ride it without extended wot for most of the first day but after that game on.

That is the correct way.

 

[newmy1]

You mean you are supposed to break in the motor? I thought you just throw a leg over it and pin it, wait I ride a doo

 

[Bowfisher]

Make sure it's warmed up and let'er rip, try to make sure you are loading the motor though not just ripping down the trail. Here read this. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[Himark]

You mean you are supposed to break in the motor? I thought you just throw a leg over it and pin it, wait I ride a doo

hahaha...Yeah Doo knows the mentality of there riders hence the burn in chip

 

[norsepeak]

Make sure it's warmed up and let'er rip, try to make sure you are loading the motor though not just ripping down the trail. Here read this. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

read this article a while ago, good info. I've been breaking in new motors like this for over 20 years with no issues. I still say, warm it up good and then flog it.

 

[likkerpig]

Broke in my 13 pro by riding easy 3 blocks to the trailhead, wfo as much as possible the next 30 miles. After that did the wfo/variable throttle the rest of the day. Runs frickin great, well at least the 400 miles I got on it so far it has. Will it make it 2500+? That's any body's guess..... It's a Polaris....

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

heat cycle 3-4 times in the shop.. ride it like you stole it... they run HARD..

just put together a boosted nytro. 0 miles NA... warmed up a few times.. test/tune rode the field 5 miles. going to flog in the hills next.

 

[Vern]

ride it like you would any other time, just no long wide open pulls for the first day or so.

 

[Ultra]

I gotta agree with most of the advice here. I have broken in several new motors from easy to hard and it sure seem the better running motors are the ones that are broken in just as I intend to use it.
Add some extra oil to the gas, do a good warm up and ride it like you intend to use it, and shy away from a 5 minute wfo pull for the first 50 miles or so. I would also clutch it for the elevation you intend to ride it at right out of the box. go have fun!

The "mountain weights" lighter weights simply compensate for less power at higher elevations. They simply unload the motor to allow it spin into its power band at the higher elevation. You will not see higher rpm's unless you are clutched for 8000' and run it wfo at significantly less elevation.
Likewise if you keep the heaver weights and run it at 8000' the motor simply can't reach it power band, effectively creating an over loaded under powered condition.