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Hooking up.

I have a M6 141" 2005 and have the track cut to 2"s with 96 screw in studs. I am getting the most of my power to the track now then I have ever and can't seem to hook the sled up.

57/63 gears stock 3" 8tooth drivers. DO have a set of 62/58 that can go in.

10" secondary with 044 belt seeing 4000 engagement an 7700 running up to 8050.

I have the limiter straps all the way out and the front ski shock spring pre loaded by 2 turns. Front spring in the skid is stock and 2 turns tight from totaly loose as well. Both shocks are valved to 06 crossfire specs. I have the holz relocation bracket and have the slide for the side springs moved back as much as I can and set on the lowest setting.

Now even if I start off slow then nail the flipper the track is just spinning. It will spin till about 40mph. If I roll on and at 40mph nail it she will pull the skis and shoot to 90mph in no time. When racing another sled I need to peddle the flipper.

Belt to sheave in primary is set to .020 and will shift out at will just can't hook the track up.

Any suspention adjustments that would help hooking up on snow only. Wondering about Geo's mod that is being done on the 07 up suspension if it would work on the 05-06 M with the relocation bracket?

I need to suck up this power in the suspention. How the he11 are you 1000cc guys hooking when this is only a 600 at low elevation?

Any input would be great.

Cheers Don.
 
what track? attack 20 or challenger? if your on hard pack you need a harder compound track
 
track

Are you sure the stud screws are hitting the snow cause with that many it should hook up like crazy.The geo mod will soften suspension even more ....
 
Attack20 cut to about 2"s. Well she digs to dirt then gos like a raped ape.

I have some grass to fix here on the farm.

Any recommendations on front shock spring?

Don.
 
Tighten your front track shock some more this will drive the front of the skid down on hard acceleration lifting the skis a bit more and helping your transfer. If your front shock is loose you probably have alot of ski pressure.
 
Have you tried removing the Holz bracket and putting the front arm back to the stock position? That will change the angle of the front arm and should allow the skid frame to drive up under the sled on acceleration; increasing transfer.
 
Have you tried removing the Holz bracket and putting the front arm back to the stock position? That will change the angle of the front arm and should allow the skid frame to drive up under the sled on acceleration; increasing transfer.

I don't want to give up ride and have to change it in and out. I did have more ski lift before but this was because the rear was too coupled.



I think you may have something BlackT I do have allot of ski pressure and this could be over leveraging the suspension blowing the track off.

Thanks for the tip.

Don.
 
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