Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

holtz a-arms on dragon

I bought an older set of the Holz spindles. They had a fixed lower mounting point and you couldn't adjust the ski stance (like the new ones). So I milled the lower nubs off which allowed me to have an adjustable stance. Then when I installed everything I realized that the holz spindles aren't very compatible with the Z-Broz A-arms. My shop had originally told me this would be the case and they were right. The holz spindles contact the a-arms far too early thus reducing your steering radius significantly. I then took the spindles back to my shop and milled the steering clearance relief a little bigger (sorry I don't have any pics of this). I'll get back to you on my shock settings. I write all of them down in the back of my owners manual and will look up what I had for my latest data when I get home.

Here's a pic of the "nub" milling that I did.
SANY0210.jpg
 
I did the Holz arms with Holz spindles on my D7. Sweet setup, but I made one mistake. As someone else mentioned, the Walker Evan's don't do well without the sway bar. Don't do it!

I did the same thing to my D8 but used Fox Float Evol R's (no Holz spindles) and left the sway bar on. Awesome setup. The IQ chassis works fine with a wider stance. It is so easy to side hill that the extra 1" doesn't hurt it there but helps in cornering.

attachment.php


camo.jpg
 
ok so as any one run the Alternative Impact A-arms and how do you guys like the evols over the floats. im thinking of doing some work this summer and i have a tree problem im out 3 lowers 1 upper and a shock i do agree with M H the bulkeds can take a beating.
 
The evols are more and give you rebound and more impact hit. I have the R's, which are only $300 more than the regular floats. I love them because I turn the rebound up on the bumps and dial down when I'm in the deep powder. You do have to play with the settings. If they are too stiff you will get bucked around when carving. I think they are worth it.
 
Do you guys leave the stock shocks in the skid or do you change those over as well?

We've had good luck valving the stock rear shocks for most of our customers under 230#'s...really aggressive or heavier riders required the switch to z-broz to get enough effective dampening in all situations-really a fantastic shock, they'll take alot of abuse and keep on truckin!

curt
 
I'd have to say if you can pony up for at least the evol-r's...do it. I still can't believe that there are shocks made in this world without rebound adjustment. Coming from a strong suspension involved background in the cycling industry I feel it's one of the most important features you could have.
 
WE's with no sway bar

My new 07 D7 still has the WE stock shocks, and the more I read the more I wish I didn't have them. The previous owner also removed the sway bar (he claimed it was great), but as multiple posts in this thread pointed out WE + No sway-bar isn't such a good idea. I'm planning on having the shocks re-built before the start of the season anyway (thought this would keep the missing sway bar situation not so relevant), but it appears I should seriously consider buying a new sway bar as well, as I no longer have the stock one. The question is does not having the sway bar with the WE's just effect you on the trail, or are there off the trail negative effects as well? Any recommendations on a new sway bar?
 
Well I ordered some holz arms from a guy here on snowest, plan on running them with my we shocks and swaybar installed. I sent the we shocks in and had them re-valved to 09 specs, we'll see if they are any better...
 
Get new swaybar socket-bushing for inside the a arms.... those wear the most...and cause a "clunky" feel to the action (on pre 2009 sleds). Those socket-bushings wear pretty quickly.

Also... I ground the ends of the bar to a half round and use trailer grease in the socket-bushings to make them as smooth as possible.

This is not an issue with the new Dragon swaybars on the 2009's
 
Premium Features



Back
Top