Hoisting the Pro straight up.

[Pro-8250]

On the 2009 Dragon RMK you can hoist the sled straight up by rapping a nylon sling (choker) around the steering column yoke. (not the handle bars) Has anyone accomplished this with 2011/2012 Pro? And if so, would the 2013 be the same with the carbon fiber structure?

 

[seth25]

No problem doing this on the 11/12. Not sure on the 13

 

[Pro-8250]

No problem doing this on the 11/12. Not sure on the 13

Cool, thanks!

 

[mountainhorse]

Make a loop... tie it to the top of the spindles and hoist it from there... Safer considering all that is going on there.. My 2 cents.

 

[Pro-8250]

Make a loop... tie it to the top of the spindles and hoist it from there... Safer considering all that is going on there.. My 2 cents.

Yeah, I can see that. My goal is to hoist it up and back the pickup under it, and then lower onto the bed. So your method would work for that? This will be a one man operation.

 

[LoudHandle]

Make a loop... tie it to the top of the spindles and hoist it from there... Safer considering all that is going on there.. My 2 cents.

True, it is stronger from the spindles but would require a third / forth leg to lift the track off the ground also. It may be closer (center of gravity wise) to attach each end of the loop (or quality tie down) to the foot stirrups and run the center on whichever side of the handle bars you need to, to get the final balance right. If the over structure will not handle the weight of the sled it won't handle a Person casing the bars on impact with something either. IMO

I used to pick my mods from the mountain bar, and they weighed the same as they claim the '13 PRO does dry. Of course my mods had a heat treated Chromoly Steering post and Aluminum / Ceramic Handlebars. None of the Sh_tty Stock Polaris squirt gun welds.

 

[Snodawg]

I used to pick my mods from the mountain bar, and they weighed the same as they claim the '13 PRO does dry. Of course my mods had a heat treated Chromoly Steering post and Aluminum / Ceramic Handlebars. None of the Sh_tty Stock Polaris squirt gun welds.

The pro steering post is attached to the overstructure by two plastic clamps or bushings. I wouldn't lift up the sled by the bars or post.

 

[NapaMatt]

I did this last year...


Using 3 Straps...

Using the two over structure tubes.... and the rear bumper.. (Cobe)

Worked Mint Picked it up 7 feet...

 

[Pro-8250]

Pro RMK 163"

I did this last year...


Using 3 Straps...

Using the two over structure tubes.... and the rear bumper.. (Cobe)

Worked Mint Picked it up 7 feet...

Matt, when you say over structure tubes, are talking about the connection point being down by the stirrups? I want to be able to do this in less than 5 minutes. No body parts removed. I am thinking along the lines of what Loudhandle is saying. Maybe a three point connection (pick). One to each foot stirrup up against the tunnel, and a third one either to the front or rear bumper. I am thinking front. Just for a balance point. If the wet weight is 500 pounds that's only 250 pounds of strain on each stirrup/tunnel attachment point.......thoughts?

 

[NapaMatt]

Well to do this...


I took my Hood and side panel off... but thats less the 3 mins!

The Over Structure Tubes then are over the engine... now on the 13' Model Carbon Fiber...


So might not be a good idea for the 13' model..

If you don't want to take the hood or panel off... Go right to the Spindles.. on each side..

 

[Bagger]

Maybe a three point connection (pick). One to each foot stirrup up against the tunnel, and a third one either to the front or rear bumper.

Pro, I'm looking at doing the same thing here, but want to be ableto pick the sleds from the back of the truck and once lifted run them into the shed suspended and then set them down. I have the rail in place, (I am using an old barn door slider rated at 1200 lbs.) the hoist in place, (1000 lbs chainfall attached to an old door hanger, I know, but I only have to pick up the suspension sag + 2-3 inches) just waiting for the /13 to get here to figure the pic points. Seems for me that the two spindles and the back bumper would be easiest to manage alone as it would be less apt to pitch when pushing in and out of the shed, also this would allow the covers to remain in place and would be less prone to change by the load on the tunnel) Where you are just lifting it's probably a wash for you.

I am figuring on the three points, once the balance is figured out, I will attached hooks to the loop ends so it's a fast, easy connect/disconnect. This will save two starts on each sled each load/unload evolution, and a bunch of aggrivation with the dollies or wrastling with the sleds.

I would echo what Snodawg stated about the plastic bushings on the steering colum, I would never count on the colum for any lifting or even to roll the sled. And after breaking one of those bushings I now keep one in my toolbag . . .

Bag

 

[jasonsdzl]

I have 2011 assault and 12 600 rmk I have picked from steering post numerous times no problem , quick and easy , and stays perfectly balanced .

 

[Bagger]

I have 2011 assault and 12 600 rmk I have picked from steering post numerous times no problem , quick and easy , and stays perfectly balanced .

Thanks, it's nice to know it's stronger than I thought!

Bag