High boost track skipping?? Help

[Gobig510]

On my 2008 M8 Race Gas Turbo running 13+Lbs of boost I can't seem to get the track tight enough to keep it from skipping under high boost and high load. I have the track so tight I can barely spin it with my hand when on the stand. If I WOT on the trail it won't skip, even about 3/4 throttle in deep snow up a hill it won't. It only happens when I'm WOT in deep snow pulling a hill. It just started doing it so I tightened up the track a little bit. It continued skipping so I kept tightening the track but now the track is tight as hell and hasn't solved the problem. Looked at the track drivers and they look fine and seem to be in the track groves fine when on the stand. What could be happening?? Its really annoying that I have a sled that has the power to climb anything but I can only climb about as high as a stock sled then the skipping begins!!!!

 

[WyoBoy1000]

does it have a stock skid or a different suspension.

 

[knzee]

Something is wrong. I run a timbersled skid around 12psi and Yourd47 runs a stock skid at 14 and neither one "skips". How rounded off are your drivers, and how is the bearing on the brake side? When you colapse your skid by sitting on it in the garage does the track still stay tight?

 

[ACMtnCat]

Brake side bearing is out.

 

[jensen]

Skid

Is it an easy ride? Mine has to be super tight not to ratchet. It happens exactly as you say in deep snow and only in deep snow.

 

[little_orange_cat]

How do your rails look? strait?

 

[BigAir]

So, have you ran this boost level and rear skid for a while without ratcheting? You are saying it just started ratcheting and you haven't changed anything, correct? If so, something had to wear out, come loose, or break. I would be inclined to think like ACMtnCat and be looking at all my bearings. Let us know what you find.

 

[mynewuseddoo]

Do you have introvert or extravert drivers?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I think he just wanted to see us talk in circles without a response to our ???

 

[Klimbing Kitty]

if u have a different skid in are your rail tips hitting your drivers?. Wyoboy u r right on the circles.

 

[Gobig510]

Circles

haha. Sorry guys, didn't have a chance to sled this weekend so snowest was in the far back corner of my mind. It is the stock skid, stock wheels, stock shock, rails look straight. Driver teeth don't look too worn. So you think a bearing could do this? Does the bearing start seizing up and pull the track to one side???

I've been running this boost for awhile, no changes except for a new diamond drive. Put the new diamond drive in, ran well for about a day, then the next day the track started skipping...

Could it be the angle that the track makes with the drives. Is anyone using different limiting straps??

Could one of you fine gents post a picture of how your drive teeth fit in your track and maybe a shot of your track attack angle?

Thanks

 

[Gobig510]

Rail Tips

Rail tips also aren't hitting my drives. When I sit on the sled the track seems to stay close to the same tension. How tight do you guys have yours compared to a stock sled. My brother has a stock 800 mountain cat, mine is quite a bit tighter than his and mine skips. I've heard that if you put you sled on a stand put about 10lbs of force downward on the middle of the bottom of the track you should see about an inch and half of space between your track and rails. Correct? Or on a turbo sled should there be much less? I can probably get about an inch of space with 10 lbs and it is pretty hard to turn my track with one hand grabbing the lugs...

Could my track be getting a little stretched out or someting? It still looks pretty good.

 

[Johnmaster]

1.5" is pretty tight for a mountain track, are you sure it is track skip and not a diamond drive bearing or driveshaft bearing gone to hell and making the noise under load? Can't imagine anything other than the inner lugs of the track or drive cogs being worn that would cause it. Maybe you should just not ride as hard

 

[spoon]

Had same issue on a TM8 I just picked up and had to change track anyway but it was skipping bad under load with track tight as hell before I did. Driver teeth were worn but at first glance don't look too bad. If I was cheap I could push drivers on opposite and get more life but had a spare shaft w/drivers and installed, now no problem.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

If you look at the drivers where the metal clip contacts them I would bet you will see they are worn, or more like smashed.

 

[Gobig510]

Drivers

you guys are right, I was an idiot and when looking at them I thought they had a pretty good edge on them, but I was looking at the wrong side. Yes the side that actually contacts the metal clips on the track are very worn/ rounded off.

Where can I get some drivers for cheap?? These pretty easy to switch out? Never had to do it on my stock sleds, I guess the 250+hp isn't too easy on the drives.

Can anyone give an easy "how-to?"

 

[WyoBoy1000]

They have to be pressed on and off, I think, but I've never done it.

Free agent will prob have the best deal on new ones