Call or Email Brite Lites...(Bluhm Enterprise) he specializes in light for sleds and ATV's he can answer any questions you have. and his lights are great. i have them in all my cars and my 11 Pro. and my past 3 sleds. he is also a Polaris Guru so he is worth looking up.
HID on Pro-Ride
- Thread starter Peevo
- Start date
Thanks I just sent him off an email!!
Don't beleive every thing you read or hear! There has been no plug and play kit out their that will work on AC headlamps, and batteryless, that is with true HID kits W/ballasts. UNTILL NOW. AC lamps, DC lamps, battery, no battery, no matter. No battery required and won't drain your battery if you have one. Contact these guys, I think they have something! inquiries@sledlites.com They beleive there has been far too much money waited by misslead sled owners on this HID subject. $100s waited in seconds!
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I hate to bring up old news but I'm kind of confused on this topic. Has anybody installed this on their pro yet? I'm not interested in spending money on bunch of theories of what should work, especially if someone said it fried part of their sled. So anybody got the answer? Pictures as well? Thanks
So.....what about a lead dog headlamp? I was planning on running that on my new rmk
you should be able to add an HID kit with no issues. What would be best is to use a wire harness with a relay right from 12VDC instead of plugging your headlamps right into the ballasts. That is how wiring gets fried because the current draw is higher than the headlight wiring can hold.
On that 12V lead you can either add a capacitor to compensate for voltage drop OR you can introduce a battery right into the system. The pro already has a regulator.
Last season a buddy of mine used a trailtech NiMh battery like this with an HID in the 3rd light with no issues at all. However, I would question the longevity of the Nickel metal battery overtime. I do not know how well they last versus SLA batteries over time without charge/discharge cycles.
The other think you may want to consider is HID usage in the halogen reflector housing on trails. The light is scattered and will cause glare for oncoming traffic. Personally I would like to put projectors on my sled, however the cutoff could be a problem with low beam on the trails (I'm in MI). For this I would like a handlebar mounted hi/lo switch on my SBA. Some people don't care about this though. The other argument is that on/off throttle and brakes would quickly change the headlight aiming anyways...
HID's were just not mean for halogen housings, there are plenty of HID fail shots on the net. I ran drop in HID's in my truck, although scattered, the light output over stock was great but I got sick of getting brighted. Projectors are they way to go.
Proper HID cutoff
So where exactly would be the best spot to tap into a 12 volt source? I don't run es and would prefer not installing a battery. Also if I deleted the ac headlight circuit would I run into any issues?
Even if you installed a NiMh you would obviously run a 12 volt source so this would always replenish the battery correct? And if I'm not mistaken the NiMh batteries fair better if you never let the battery completely drain.
Yeah I understand that you would have to build some sort of projector to run the lights. I wouldn't want everybody I pass on the trails getting upset with me.
Anybody know exactly what about the ac circuit that doesn't work with the hid light and ballast? Is it just the constant change of the frequency and that causing the headlights to blink?
Thanks!
you would want to tap into the 12V after the regulator on the largest gauge wire you could find. I don't have a schematic or a sled in front of me now, so I can't tell you where exactly. It would be way easier to just add a cap. One thing the sled has going for it already is the fact that the ecu directs power to the pump and ignition until the engine fires. You should not need any delay relays.
If you did add a battery to the regulated 12V it would recharge. Another option for this to better control charging would be to add the factory ES harness with charge relay. The charge relaying would then be controlled by the ECU. I think all this does is prevent over charging... not 100% on this. Somebody with more knowledge on this may chime in.
as far as the light flickering... the ballast needs a constant 6-14VDC (different for each ballast) to operate properly. This is why a capacitor is needed on a batterless EFI. If the voltage drops below the operating threshold the ballast will shut off into a protection mode. You would need to kill the sled and restart it to regain headlights to reset the ballast.
Not sure I would go to the extent of removing the wiring for the factory headlights. The typical way to install HID is plug one of the existing factory headlight plugs into the harness for switching the relay on/off and for hi/lo beams depending on if the bulb is bi-xenon or not.
from what i understand you have to have estart to run a true HID kit. true hid's will need a battery, otherwise when they flame out you will have to re-start the sled
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Peevo
Well-known member
The problem with HID on sleds is that if you manage to find direct current somewhere, the start up load from the ballasts can cause a voltage drop. That voltage drop will cause a higher current and most electronic stuff do not like that.
If you have estart it's a much simple road to get a HID kit work properly.
If you have estart it's a much simple road to get a HID kit work properly.
Nightvision brand HID, <6.5A start up
Digital brand HID, <6.5A start up
I believe the morimoto branded from retrofit source is low current start up also
all 35W kits
Digital branded HID 55w, <7.5A start up
you won't find them any lower than this
The down fall to the Nightvision kit is that it has a halogen high beam
Nightvision and digital brand are products of retro solutions, I won't put a direct link as I don't know if its allowed or not...
With a battery its way easier, but it can be done without one.
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skyler.hager
Member
Good thread! I have hids in my truck and LOVE them. I would be scared about how truly waterproof the ballasts and stuff to be. I'd hate to be stranded in the backcountry with an electrical problem because I had sweet headlights for the ride in/out!
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ghost rider
Well-known member
anyone put h13 on the pro and got them to work properly yet?
Oh but it is they run A/C to headlights which is one roadblock and they use an H13 bulb I've had mine in for three seasons, and having electric start helped.
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skyler.hager
Member
DOes anyone have pics of an hid install on a pro ride? A few of you have said you have em, I wanna see how sick they look
Is it so difficult to undestand.
There is NOT DC current in the light system of the Pro.
All CFI engines up to the PRO has been running DC to headlight.
We have installed countless HID kits on dragon CFI sled without a battery. Works flawless if you have the correct ballasts.
But the PRO is DIFFERENT. There is a DC output on the pro, but it is to week to run HID over it. So you will have to rectify the light output, and run it to a battery among with the DC output, and run the HID of the battery.
Then it becomes so spendy, that we desieded there's no market for HID on the pro's.
Same **** is with Arctic cat. They came with DC power all over the sled in 07, and went AC in 2009. But lucky, AC has a DC converterkit to 200usd that brings DC to the whole sled.
We have been selling HID kits for several years, and are focusing on sleds. Have installs on almost every common sled that is possible to run HID.
There is NOT DC current in the light system of the Pro.
All CFI engines up to the PRO has been running DC to headlight.
We have installed countless HID kits on dragon CFI sled without a battery. Works flawless if you have the correct ballasts.
But the PRO is DIFFERENT. There is a DC output on the pro, but it is to week to run HID over it. So you will have to rectify the light output, and run it to a battery among with the DC output, and run the HID of the battery.
Then it becomes so spendy, that we desieded there's no market for HID on the pro's.
Same **** is with Arctic cat. They came with DC power all over the sled in 07, and went AC in 2009. But lucky, AC has a DC converterkit to 200usd that brings DC to the whole sled.
We have been selling HID kits for several years, and are focusing on sleds. Have installs on almost every common sled that is possible to run HID.
How about a .5 farad capacitor inline with a full wave rectifier.
OR...
A small battery installed in the system??
OR...
A small battery installed in the system??
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Peevo
Well-known member
This is the solution for every hid problem on sleds.
