HID on Pro-Ride
- Thread starter Peevo
- Start date
If you are not running a battery, you will need to run a capacitor.
Have a look at the trail tech website for a description of what it takes to put HID on a stator equipped machine.
Have a look at the trail tech website for a description of what it takes to put HID on a stator equipped machine.
600xc4me,
Did you put in "HID Bulbs" that simulate HID type of light...(actually halogen bulbs).
These bulbs do not need balast modules etc.
OR
Did you put in a Genuine HID light which uses the full balast/electronics to operate?
Peevo (beer right??)
Have you considered leaving the stock setup in there and going with a cyclops or Trail tech helmet light True-HID kit... this is something that you could also use on a mountain bike or moto in the off season.
For purposes on this sled... consider it an AC system in regards to running a True-HID setup.
Good luck.
True-HID conversion kit with ballast.
Did you put in "HID Bulbs" that simulate HID type of light...(actually halogen bulbs).
These bulbs do not need balast modules etc.
OR
Did you put in a Genuine HID light which uses the full balast/electronics to operate?
Peevo (beer right??)
Have you considered leaving the stock setup in there and going with a cyclops or Trail tech helmet light True-HID kit... this is something that you could also use on a mountain bike or moto in the off season.
For purposes on this sled... consider it an AC system in regards to running a True-HID setup.
Good luck.
True-HID conversion kit with ballast.
6
600xc4me
Well-known member
I had a true HID kit, one ballast per bulb. High beams were halogen, low beams were HID. The HID out did the stock head lights 10x. My kit looked exactly like your pic, only a different brand name. But the hard ware is the same as your pic there. If the stator is the same on the pro, and they still use an H4 bulb, then I can't see any reason as to why it wouldn't be a direct bold in install. The older carb sleds didn't make enough power to run HID's without additional electrical jazz. (we tried) But the CFI sleds have a bigger stator which handles them just fine.
M
Mountain800
Member
I ran HID kit on my 2009 and 2010 Polaris CFI engine sled. Works awesome!!!
So I will put on 2011 too!
No problems with hid kit on Polaris cfi as it produce AC to the head lamps. And you do NOT need battery!
Hid is a big improvement over stock H4 bulbs, as I ride alot in the dark!
Here is a link too where I got my kit:
http://www.vvme.com/digital-slim-h429003-hid-conversion-kit-p-49.html?cPath=44_53_47
So I will put on 2011 too!
No problems with hid kit on Polaris cfi as it produce AC to the head lamps. And you do NOT need battery!
Hid is a big improvement over stock H4 bulbs, as I ride alot in the dark!
Here is a link too where I got my kit:
http://www.vvme.com/digital-slim-h429003-hid-conversion-kit-p-49.html?cPath=44_53_47
M
Mountain800
Member
Hid kits don`t work on older polaris with carbourators as it does not deliver AC it is DC on headlamps and the HID Bulb will flash, flash...
Newer sleds with CFI has AC to headlamps and it does not flash.
Dont ask me why and what the difference on AC or DC is because I do not know.
But have tested this out myself and it is true.. 2006 Switchback with carbs did not allow HID kit. But 07 RMK 700 CFI did. 09 RMK 600 CFI did. 10 Assault CFI did and I hope my 2011 will!!
Newer sleds with CFI has AC to headlamps and it does not flash.
Dont ask me why and what the difference on AC or DC is because I do not know.
But have tested this out myself and it is true.. 2006 Switchback with carbs did not allow HID kit. But 07 RMK 700 CFI did. 09 RMK 600 CFI did. 10 Assault CFI did and I hope my 2011 will!!
hid
All Pro uses H13 find them on vvme.com
already make an order for my Assult Rmk
i order 600k slim
http://www.vvme.com/digital-slim-h132-hid-conversion-kit-p-73.html?cPath=44_53_48
this kit are found on a large number of various website
All Pro uses H13 find them on vvme.com
already make an order for my Assult Rmk
i order 600k slimhttp://www.vvme.com/digital-slim-h132-hid-conversion-kit-p-73.html?cPath=44_53_48
this kit are found on a large number of various website
I have a 2011 PRO RMK and have tried a digital set,analog set, 35w,55w, a relay harness and load resistors and cannot get HID's to work properly so if you have found a set that works i would love to hear about it!!
Has anyone else installed HIDS on their Pro? I had the HID lights on my Dragon and loved them. (I also have them on my F-150) So the Pro bulbs are now H13 instead of H4? I plan on putting them in my Pro when it comes in this fall and would just like to know if others have done this and had success? Also my Pro will have a battery on it since I ordered electric start since I have been spoiled by having it on my last 3 sleds.
What kits did you use for those that worked? And did you get your 2011 outfitted afterall?
I
icemanmg
Active member
My dealer was talkin about this with me about 2 weeks ago...He said one of the engineers at polaris told him if u run a bulb from this ford car it would make it about twice as bright over the stock bulbs. My dealer forgot what car. I will ask him again to see if he will remember. Again we where just talkin about this randomly.
Ditto!
S
sp4x
New member
1st:
There is a HUGE difference in quality on the different HID-kits on different parts.
Read a test for a while ago where they tested radiation (correct word? you know, the kind of electricwave things that comes from mobilephones for example
). Some kits had higher levels och radiation, especially cheaper kits, which could make it not work at all or make some of the sleds electrical parts not work properly.
2nd:
A normal halogenbulb takes 55w/12v, a Xenonkit works between 8-16 V and you Should go for the 35w to make it easier for the sleds electrical.
For those of you who cant make it work, one thing that seems to make a difference is where you put the ground, try different places (frame or some part of the engine)
Also, shut of handwarmers, and everything that takes power, the HID´s need more power at startup and less when they´re running. you could also try making them start one after the other with a switch.
wont fire up? Rev the sled, making it produce more electricity, the HID may start flicker at idle, just raise the idle a bit or turn the lights off
for older sleds, to save some power on the sled, change the other lights to LED alternatives
Hope it helps someone, if you find i´m wrong, correct me
There is a HUGE difference in quality on the different HID-kits on different parts.
Read a test for a while ago where they tested radiation (correct word? you know, the kind of electricwave things that comes from mobilephones for example
). Some kits had higher levels och radiation, especially cheaper kits, which could make it not work at all or make some of the sleds electrical parts not work properly.2nd:
A normal halogenbulb takes 55w/12v, a Xenonkit works between 8-16 V and you Should go for the 35w to make it easier for the sleds electrical.
For those of you who cant make it work, one thing that seems to make a difference is where you put the ground, try different places (frame or some part of the engine)
Also, shut of handwarmers, and everything that takes power, the HID´s need more power at startup and less when they´re running. you could also try making them start one after the other with a switch.
wont fire up? Rev the sled, making it produce more electricity, the HID may start flicker at idle, just raise the idle a bit or turn the lights off
for older sleds, to save some power on the sled, change the other lights to LED alternatives
Hope it helps someone, if you find i´m wrong, correct me
A
ak49er
Well-known member
I have the Vimeo H4 kit installed in my car, a 1983 Mercedes Diesel/WVO with aftermarket Projector type housings. The HID works great (low Beam) but the halogen bulb (high beam)is worse than the old H4 I had in there....
HID Bulbs are meant to be run behind a Coronal Protector and in a reflector that is "cut" for the HID. The first is important the second not so much.
If you were to run an HID kit in a sled without coronal projectors you will have a light that is so bright it will actually cause an oncoming riders eyes to close if they don't look away. While you may have the brightest lights on the trail or hill, the poor sucker coming the opposite direction WILL be temporarily blinded, not so nice if it happens to you.
You may notice this on the highway, headlights so bright it hurts, sometimes it is because the headlight assemblies aren't aimed correctly, or maybe too heavy a load or even a sled trailer will change the angle of the lights, but most times it is someone who added an aftermarket HIGH INTENSITY Discharge kit without the coronal protector.
Purpose built Projector reflectors have the protector and are cut to reflect the light from behind the protector outwards.
Take the time to mod a protector onto your bulb housing for the sake of all the other riders out there.
HID Bulbs are meant to be run behind a Coronal Protector and in a reflector that is "cut" for the HID. The first is important the second not so much.
If you were to run an HID kit in a sled without coronal projectors you will have a light that is so bright it will actually cause an oncoming riders eyes to close if they don't look away. While you may have the brightest lights on the trail or hill, the poor sucker coming the opposite direction WILL be temporarily blinded, not so nice if it happens to you.
You may notice this on the highway, headlights so bright it hurts, sometimes it is because the headlight assemblies aren't aimed correctly, or maybe too heavy a load or even a sled trailer will change the angle of the lights, but most times it is someone who added an aftermarket HIGH INTENSITY Discharge kit without the coronal protector.
Purpose built Projector reflectors have the protector and are cut to reflect the light from behind the protector outwards.
Take the time to mod a protector onto your bulb housing for the sake of all the other riders out there.
So alot of theory but has anybody here ACTUALLY got a set to work properly?? I have been talking to sledstart and they say its all beacause the headlight system on the PRO is AC! alot of people seem to mention on here about flickering or not enough power to fire the ballast, th problem i am encountering is exactly opposite, the ballast and bulb fire up just fine.....when i rev the engine up to clutch engagement or higher the bulbs shut off......as soon as i let go of the throttle and the engine returns to base idle the lights turn back on again!! I have been through numerous sets and every configuration of relay,load resistor,digital ballast, analog, 35w and 55 w sets and the exact same thing happens in every case!!! the bulbs on the pro are H13 not H4 as well.!!! frikin frustrating!!!!!
I installed on my 2010 rush. The rush uses A/C current for the headlight system so HIDS do not plug and play with the rush I ran a seperate switch and power them from the battery. The A/C system fried my hi/lo relay. I also installed a remote start too.
