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Help with mountain max carbs

Hello, I bought my son an 03 mm 700, Its not running right so Im going through the carbs and resetting everything, I want to check what settings the needles are in but I cant figure out how to get them out, I understand that somehow I have to get the linkage apart and then take the 2 hex screws out of the needle holder, but everything I do seems like its going to bend or break something. If someone could point me in the right direction I would be very grateful. Thanks Gregg T.
 
Take the carb top plates off, look inside and you will see there are 2 allen screws holding the linkage on each. Don't lose thew screws etc. Notice there is also usually a little plastic washer on top or under the needle clip. Pay attention to where it is as it also controls needle height.
 
Thanks guys got it figurerd out, Although I still cant figure out why this thing is acting up. It seems to run good but sometimes when I let off the gas it falls on its face and just bogs until you let it go back to idle almost like its lean, the plugs also are showing lean. Im at sea level in AK with 143.8's straight across #45 mains, air screws out 2 turns needles in the middle. I put a new fuel pump in and went through all the lines, disassembled the carbs and cleaned them,put new gas in it, Im running out of ideas if anybody has any I would love to hear them. And thanks again for the info earlier. Gregg T
 
When it bog's do you have a light flashing on the dash?
Does it bog like an electronic rev limiter, kind of Hub bub bub bub noise, you let the machine idle for acouple of seconds then it will take off?
If so your throttle cable is either too tight or your cable is sticky, and your throttle over ride is coming on
Dont disconect it, fix the problem
 
Thanks guys got it figurerd out, Although I still cant figure out why this thing is acting up. It seems to run good but sometimes when I let off the gas it falls on its face and just bogs until you let it go back to idle almost like its lean, the plugs also are showing lean. Im at sea level in AK with 143.8's straight across #45 mains, air screws out 2 turns needles in the middle. I put a new fuel pump in and went through all the lines, disassembled the carbs and cleaned them,put new gas in it, Im running out of ideas if anybody has any I would love to hear them. And thanks again for the info earlier. Gregg T

try what 0007 said bypass the TORS. If that doesn;t work, maybe your needle and seats are bad. Symptom of needle and seats are boggin after a wide open throttle or bogging facin down hill. And poor gas mileage.
 
After the last time I put it back together it seems to have fixed itself,I think you guys are probably right about the TORS, we went riding and it only did it once, is there an easy way to bypass that for troubleshooting if it does it again? Sorry first yamaha I've ever owned, Also the skis seem way too skinny, do stock skis off a apex or nytro mt. fit? Im making my son pay for all of his mods and he doesnt have much money. thanx for any info.
 
Bypass TORS. Find the sensor on the carbs. There is 2 wires, and they run about 4-6 inchs, then you will find 2 connections(1 male and 1 female) unplug the 2 wires going to, and from that sensor on the carb and plug them into eachother.

So the 2 wires COMMING from the carb sensor are hooked together, and the 2 wires TO those wires are hooked together.

Just be careful, if that TORS is unpluged and the throttle is stuck on start up, its going to take off on you! You could try to bypass the TORS and if that fixs the problem, you could adjust the throttle cable and hook up the TORS again.


Those stock skis are junk IMO. I just put Apex Mountain Skis on my MM. I only got the skis so I had to get the longer ski (Apex bolts) bolt and the 2 spacers for each ski.

If you by Apex mountain skis and it comes with the sapcers/bolts its a direct bolt on.
 
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I agree with mm700 on the tors bypass. I might add that if this fixes the prob; and I think it will; it could also be a bad tors switch. I had a bad switch on a 700 when it was new. All you need on cable adjust is just a slight freeplay. Check to see that freeplay remains when turning bars both directions.
 
I wouldn't bypass the TORS. Been there, done that on my 98 MSRX after it idled weird when I put a 2" bar riser on the sled. It was making the same sounds you describe and I read "just bypass the TORS". I did it and it worked great.

Until................. I was synching my carbs and I finished up and fired it up to see how it ran. Apparently somehow my heavy coat (I'm guessing here) sometime during the synching must have bumped the throttle cable out of it's keeper on the handlebar. The throttle cable was now outside of the throttle housing and when I pulled it to start it. The damn thing took off wide open across the yard, bounced off a telephone guy wire and flipped over but, the centrifigal force of the track spinning somehow righted the sled and off it went at WOT toward a huge field but, as luck would have it the sled hit one of the only trees dead center at who knows what speed (50-60 mph?). It blew the hood and pipes off the sled but, the motor kept running in a green anti-freeze mist at WOT until I ran over and shut it down............it was completely totaled right in my own yard all because I bypassed the TORS. Thank goodness the kids had just gone in the house.

Frosty
 
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HOLY CRAP FROSTIE, I can just picture that! If there were banjo's playing and people hollering it would have made a great U-Tube video :D Glad no one got hurt tho...

Gregg, do you have a shop manual?? I just bought a CD shop manual on ebay yesterday for $5.99. They also sent me a zip file incase I need it asap. You want me to send you the Zip??

:beer;
 
I wouldn't bypass the TORS. Been there, done that on my 98 MSRX after it idled weird when I put a 2" bar riser on the sled. It was making the same sounds you describe and I read "just bypass the TORS". I did it and it worked great.

Until................. I was synching my carbs and I finished up and fired it up to see how it ran. Apparently somehow my heavy coat (I'm guessing here) sometime during the synching must have bumped the throttle cable out of it's keeper on the handlebar. The throttle cable was now outside of the throttle housing and when I pulled it to start it. The damn thing took off wide open across the yard, bounced off a telephone guy wire and flipped over but, the centrifigal force of the track spinning somehow righted the sled and off it went at WOT toward a huge field but, as luck would have it the sled hit one of the only trees dead center at who knows what speed (50-60 mph?). It blew the hood and pipes off the sled but, the motor kept running at WOT until I ran over and shut it down............it was completely totaled right in my own yeard all because I bypassed the TORS. Thank goodness the kids had just gone in the house.

Frosty

Thank's for mentioning a horror story
I have been riding Yamaha since 91 and I have NEVER had a disconnected TORS, if it's broken, fix it
I always think, "What if my throttle stuck and my sled hit someone (A kid)"
 
Thanks guys good info, I agree if the TORS does end up being the culprit I will fix it instead of leaving it bypassed, I myself had a sled climb up the tilt trailer I just pulled it off of and jump into the back of my buddys truck through the salt shield and into his back window, throttle stuck wide open, not cool. NoCoastNesse that would be awesome is that something you can email? Im not a computer guy wich is probably obvious because my user name is my email address, I didnt do that on purpose.
 
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