Whenever I go off the trail in deep snow I can run for a minute or two and then it acts like its bogging and running rich. If I try to open it up it almost kills the engine. I'm running all stock. Temps were -5 to 0 with 470 jets and needle clip in the 3rd position. This is al per the charts. I removed and cleaned the exhaust valves and the bellows are good. Air box is stock. RPM when running in the snow is 6000-7000. If I stop in a track and let the engine idle a minute and clean up I can go again for a while or if I go back to the trail and open it up and clean it out I can go back to the deep snow. It seams its running rich when under load 1/2 throttle position under load in the deep snow. I can run down the trail all day with no problems. It's just when I get in the snow. I also replaced the foam donut thinking I may be sucking snow in.
Help Please 03 RMK 700 bogging in deep snow
- Thread starter dblap
- Start date
CHECK FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION WHEN IN DEEP SNOW. THEY SELL BRCKETS TO BOLT ON TO KEEP SNOW FROM BLOCKING THE EXHASUT CAUSING YOU SAME PROBLEM. JUST MY 2 CENTS WORTH
V
verticalman
Member
What elevation are you riding at?
I'm in the center of Minnesota about 1200 ft. Snow was 3-4' deep. Heading out west to the Big Horns and need to figure this out.
Get an ATACC for the traveling/jetting.
Check your exhaust deflector for damage--if you notice that the bog tends to be in a right hand carve this is probably the cause. If the deflector is bent over, missing a chunk or worn down, replace it. If the deflector is OK and the bog is persistent then it's something else.
Check your plugs for wash--you want a nice coffee brown. Black and wet means you're too rich and grey/white/ashy means you're too lean.
Check your compression. If the sled has over 2,500 miles you might need a top end. 140 PSI is stock. Down to 125 PSI with no more than a 10 PSI variance is acceptable.
Check your temp sensor. You didn't mention the temp light but that might be a player and Edge temp sensors are notoriously finicky.
Also, check your clutchs for cleanliness, damage and springs. Springs are under constant tension and they set with age. If they're not working properly your machine won't build RPM.
Before you start tearing things apart check the simple stuff first.
Check your exhaust deflector for damage--if you notice that the bog tends to be in a right hand carve this is probably the cause. If the deflector is bent over, missing a chunk or worn down, replace it. If the deflector is OK and the bog is persistent then it's something else.
Check your plugs for wash--you want a nice coffee brown. Black and wet means you're too rich and grey/white/ashy means you're too lean.
Check your compression. If the sled has over 2,500 miles you might need a top end. 140 PSI is stock. Down to 125 PSI with no more than a 10 PSI variance is acceptable.
Check your temp sensor. You didn't mention the temp light but that might be a player and Edge temp sensors are notoriously finicky.
Also, check your clutchs for cleanliness, damage and springs. Springs are under constant tension and they set with age. If they're not working properly your machine won't build RPM.
Before you start tearing things apart check the simple stuff first.
Dblap.. If, you mean 3rd clip from the top you may be too rich for stock pipe,stock airbox,stock motor.
If your drive belt is loose-at or below rear clutch outside surface,you might feel and experience Bog.
Easy stuff first- then open inspect, replace ,improve..stuff
If your drive belt is loose-at or below rear clutch outside surface,you might feel and experience Bog.
Easy stuff first- then open inspect, replace ,improve..stuff
If its loading up at helf throttle (midrange) i would say change your needles cuz they are the main component at midrange. did it always do this?
Ok the compression was good at 145psi each. Deflector is not bent and is in perfect shape. I did not notice the temp light on when the problem was happing. Plugs are a dark brown almost black. Needle clip is in the center 3rd position. Two down from the top and or two up from the bottom.
Besides the belt and clutch/s try the 420 main jets where you are at now.
when you head out west at or above 6 thou ft. try the 370's. I'm still being safe on those recomendations but as always judge performance and spark plug color, clean'em good when you make the changes to see the results on the tips.
Over heat light- might be low quality coolant, air bubble in coolant system, plus no ice scratchers
when you head out west at or above 6 thou ft. try the 370's. I'm still being safe on those recomendations but as always judge performance and spark plug color, clean'em good when you make the changes to see the results on the tips.
Over heat light- might be low quality coolant, air bubble in coolant system, plus no ice scratchers
370's should be about right for 6000'.
I have an 04 700 that I run in eastern SD, about 1200ft. I run 450 mains, needles in third pos. I use the green/yellow ev springs at low alt. When running at 6-8 thous ft, I use 340 mains, needles in 2nd pos, and change the ev springs to orange. These settings are for average temps (would be a little diff if temps are extreme either way). My sled is stock, and runs great. I've used it in SD, Wyo, Id, and Mt.
I ran 330 mains in my old 2002 700. it was right on ABOVE 8000'
Yep your too fat i ran 450's in mn which was fat but ran good and ran 330's at 8000 ft and above. my sled had an air horn and slp pipe and some extra vents i never changed my jetting cuz it just made it run better as stock jetting is way to rich. I did end up putting a holtz attac on my sled it was nice i still jetted down a little bit when i went west so it didn't have to compensate so much.
With the throttle needle clip in the first position from the top, the throttle needle will sit further down in the main jets, and thus use less gas and be leaner. With the clip in the lowest notch, then the needle rides highest in the main jet and runs rich. Since your plugs indicate that you are too rich, and you are experiencing the problem in mid range, the needle clip is likely set too low on the needle. Just changing that clip by one notch, makes a big difference mid range. As sleds get older, they run richer because the clearances get bigger. So try the clip out at two notches down from the top and don't loose the clip while you are fidgeting with everything.
Also, if you have removed your foam snow filters that sit below the dash, you will be ingesting snow into the engine. That is a bad thing. The old snow filters break down from UV light and need to be cleaned up a bit, reversed and/or replaced.
Getting water from snow under your hood, into the plug caps will also cause problems. I replaced my plug caps with personal water craft caps in order to get a tighter fit.
Stock air boxes really cut down on the available air into the engine, but claim some magical resonance that will somehow increase the flow. Removing the air horns but keeping everything else, increases the available intake air considerably and relies less on magic. More air means less likelihood of bogging from lack of air.
If you bog down and come to a stop, check the exhaust port to see whether the snow is tight against your exhaust pipe opening. Clear the snow away prior to attempting to restart.
Also, if you have removed your foam snow filters that sit below the dash, you will be ingesting snow into the engine. That is a bad thing. The old snow filters break down from UV light and need to be cleaned up a bit, reversed and/or replaced.
Getting water from snow under your hood, into the plug caps will also cause problems. I replaced my plug caps with personal water craft caps in order to get a tighter fit.
Stock air boxes really cut down on the available air into the engine, but claim some magical resonance that will somehow increase the flow. Removing the air horns but keeping everything else, increases the available intake air considerably and relies less on magic. More air means less likelihood of bogging from lack of air.
If you bog down and come to a stop, check the exhaust port to see whether the snow is tight against your exhaust pipe opening. Clear the snow away prior to attempting to restart.
X
X2Freeride
Well-known member
How old are your clutch springs?
Most importantly the secondary spring.
Most importantly the secondary spring.
im having some of the same problems when in deep snow ive replaced exhaust valve springs went through the carbs all good there snow deflecter i built a new one and it still dose it i have a 800 that is ported polished slp single pipe bored 40mm flat slide carbs but when it starts spitting and sputtering i can use the nos and it stops but as soon as i let off the boton it drops my rpms down to 6000 i have had it under a load climbing hills and it dosent effect it but boondocking nothing but problems
it could be steam off the pipes going into the airbox and causing it to be rich me and another guy had that problem last powder day on 800 rmks
My son and I ride the same machines as you and aksed the same question the first time we ran them in deep snow, especially when side hilling on the right ski. Your are covering the exhaust port. To find out for sure carve to the left next time you are in deep snow and it starts to bog down. Odd are the power will come back as soon as the exhaust port clears the snow.
it even dose it when side hilling on the left side or breaking trail but climbing it Dosent do it or when im jumping and i land it sputters untell i get it cleared out than it runs fine and plugs are a nice chocolatly brown
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