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help: 06 M7 randomly died (fuel, ignition, wiring ?'s)

From what I've read the timing sensor won't create a "no start" situation. Pretty sure that is correct.... but maybe not. I'm leaning towards the stator being on it's last legs, or the wiring creating the spark problems.

For now I know for a fact that I'm getting way to much fuel. I'm thinking either the injectors are toast (would be very odd to have both injectors stick at basically the same time) or the regulator is toast and the fuel pressure is through the roof. I'll solve this problem then move on to the spark being weak/intermittent. With this much fuel dumping into the cylinder the plugs will get fouled immediately almost regardless of how much spark is there. I have a spare M7 with mine that I'll be swapping parts to and from. Eventually I'll try the harness.
 
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I'm still thinking swapping the injectors is the place to start, you know that pouring fuel you'll fould plugs and get a no start situation. It's obviously not normal to get any fuel flow with them unplugged. Start there and see if it runs ok.

Not being there I can't see how different the spark is, but the way I look at that is, before this issue it was running solid and hadn't blown out spark ever. You've put a solid load on it at high rpm before, if it ain't broken don't fix it.
 
my throttle cable broke last weekend, and i replaced it today. while getting the cable adjusted right i was having similar problems.

if there is no tension on the cable, the sled fires up but cuts out when you try revving it up.

if there is just a little too much tension, sled fires but wont stay running. i was able to make it run though by cracking the throttle lever just a bit, but the engine revved up and engaged the clutch right away. died again when i let off.

if there is way too much tension, the sled wont fire or run no matter what you try.

gotta have it in that sweet spot.
 
same problem

I have a M7 2006 that is doing exacaly what you have been saying. I tried the Coil, ECU, Spark Plugs, wire harnis, new stator and timing senser, and tested the voltage ragulater and of coures i unpluged every from the handel bars and headlights/taillights. They were all good. but you know when you pull your sled over and the check engine light comes on? will i got it to start and run for 10 to 15 secondes and it flashed twice then the sled shut off right away. did it three times in a row, then my sled gets flooded bad. But any ways two flashes meant my water temperture was no good. so i check it and it was off, it was putting out 4.9 omhs and it should be 0. The water temperture mixes the gas/air mixture ratio. So i orderd one and should be here by friday to tell you guys if it works or not.
 
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sounds like you should have gotten a sled with lower miles. Just kidding buddy, hope you get her fixed so we can hit baker next weekend, tho avy danger is ****ed and theres another large storm heading for PNW sunday.... yea buddy.
 
check the water temperature?

Have you check your water temperature senser?? Also see if you engine light flashes twice before the sled shuts off?

Its on the lower crankcase on the can side of the sled. It sould read 0 OHMS
 
which connector is it? There are two (2) wire connectors there that go down with the main engine harness. One is black, the other is green.

So, in case I wasn't clear, when you pull the cord on my sled there is a substantial amount of fuel that blows out of the cylinders (plugs out). The other M7 has none. So I disconnect my fuel injectors harness, pull the cord many times, still shooting fuel. I'm gonna put a FP gauge on it and see what the pressure's at to figure out if maybe the regulator or injectors are toast. After that I'll move back to the spark issue I think. Seem logical enough?

Catman; At one point my check engine light would flash a bit while pulling the cord, now it doesn't. I'll check the temp sensor and make sure it is good. I don't see why the water temp sensor would cause a no run situation though, a temp sensor shouldn't have that much bearing on AFR. When my sled fires it is seriously for like maybe 2 seconds, then dies.
 
mines the yellow connecter down by the stator. and i know it shouldnt be the water temp but im running out of ideas, and it dose say its off. since it dose mix the air and fuel ratio maybe its telling it to add to much gas. Mine dose flood bad, when i had it running and then when it shut off again i pulled my pipe off and my pip was full of gas.

I had it at a mechanic and he told me my ingecters were good. Last thing is the water temp in my book. see how it gose it guess
 
Have you checked compression and if so how about the reeds could it be that a reed petal has broken off
 
there is alot of compression but i did not test it. it pulles over like it allways dose. and for the reeds i have not tried that. Any way i can know if one broke with out taking them off?
 
You could pull the air box and look through the throttle bodies to see if there is anything is broken you will have to pull the rubber tube from the air box to the bodies just as well pull the bodies back and pull the reed out
 
Anyone found out anything, we have 2 M7s that are having similar issues, one runs but only with a boondocker box installed and putting Negative numbers of -30 to -40 in the low and mid fuel settings and as time goes on you have to keep taking fuel away. The other is a TM7 that was having issues with fuel pressure until we figured out the voltage regulator was bad, changed it, ran great for 2 rides then died on trail as if someone hit the kill switch, have swapped everything out with other parts other than TPS and water temp sensors. Will try next but any other ideas. Sled will fire then die and will kill plugs with fuel. Spark seems to stay good. Fuel pressure is set at 40lbs and stays there. May also swap out injectors. Frustrating, did Cat put a timer on these so we have to order 2012s?
 
The only this i never tried yet were the reeds, injecters and water temp. ill look at my reeds to night and see then hopfully tomorrow ill have the water temp too.

This is so not fun. arctic cat should just give us new 2012 sled. :face-icon-small-hap
 
Well, with the fuel line unhooked, the injectors unplugged and the fuel pump unplugged I think I've managed to get almost all the fuel out of the case. I'm really not sure how so much fuel ended up in there, but I've got to be sitting at over 50 pulls and fuel is still coming out. For some reason I didn't think it was possible to get so flooded.

Once I get the fuel out I'll get back to diagnosing. I'm gonna start fresh though.
 
go check your reeds just came in from finding out that were was a peace of plastic from my air box in it. i hope this is it! cross your fingers just need to put it to gether
 
I just fixed my wife's M8 tonite that was doing all kinds of weird stuff. Running super rich, backfiring , quitting like you hit the kill switch, then it went to quitting only if you put it in reverse,then finally losing all spark. Had to tow it 20 miles off of the mountain last weekend.

I have a BD box on it and the aluminum heat shield below the pipe had rubbed the insulation off of an injector wire, therefore was grounding out on the shield. Problem fixed. May check all wires in that area.


Anyone found out anything, we have 2 M7s that are having similar issues, one runs but only with a boondocker box installed and putting Negative numbers of -30 to -40 in the low and mid fuel settings and as time goes on you have to keep taking fuel away. The other is a TM7 that was having issues with fuel pressure until we figured out the voltage regulator was bad, changed it, ran great for 2 rides then died on trail as if someone hit the kill switch, have swapped everything out with other parts other than TPS and water temp sensors. Will try next but any other ideas. Sled will fire then die and will kill plugs with fuel. Spark seems to stay good. Fuel pressure is set at 40lbs and stays there. May also swap out injectors. Frustrating, did Cat put a timer on these so we have to order 2012s?
 
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