Helix Help

[Team Polar]

I am new to cluching and gearing, I have looked at alot of posts about the subject and have learned a ton. I read a couple of posts that recomended not to go below 44 and 46 on the middle and end angles of the helix. I found a 62-42-46 helix and was wondering if this is any better than the stocker that is in there now?
Maybe too if you could throw in a couple cents on what the numbers mean and what I am getting out of the numbers on the helix would be great too.

 

[Z-Man]

That is better than the stock one but not by much. Middle number 46 and last number 46 would be better. A higher middle number will make it back-shift quicker. a lower middle number will make it back-shift slower and make it harder for the clutch to up-shift as well. The third number .46 is the length of the initial angle on the helix. A higher first number will make it launch harder on hard pack if you have traction but will also make it trench more in powder.

 

[Team Polar]

Thanks Z-Man its starting to make sence now, so for alot boondocking and a little bit of steep stuff I would be looking for 64/44.46? That way I get a decent back shift and I am not trenching too much weaving in and out of tight trees and being in and out of the throttle?

 

[guidoxpress]

58/46.46 would be the ideal helic if you can find one for a good price...but good luck...

new they are $100-$109

 

[Team Polar]

Sean is that what you are running on your wifes sled? I got the 64/44.46 numbers from a post that Mt. Horse said he used on the 9's. I asume there will be a little discrepancy between the 9's and 7's?

 

[guidoxpress]

Sean is that what you are running on your wifes sled? I got the 64/44.46 numbers from a post that Mt. Horse said he used on the 9's. I asume there will be a little discrepancy between the 9's and 7's?

no sir,

i am running the 64/42.46 helix on the wifes 06 700, i couldnt get the other helix i wanted to at a decent price..

she has been using this helix for 2 seasons now and its been excellent and never any belt/clutching/heat issues.

but she does A TON of trails vs the deep pow, so it hardly sees any trenching, unless i try and ride it, lol.

if you got that helix for a decent price, it will perform great for you, but if you come across a 46 middle, and a less initial, get it.

 

[sno_mo_racer]

How do these ones sound for my fusion? No studs, dynoport pipe, cobra track on hard pack snow to maybe 3-4 inches of loose snow? No powder around just flat land.

68-44-46/54-42-F Twin Trax™ Helix for TSS-98 NO Engine Reverse (ER) Support (420534)

70-46.46 ER/72-48.46 ER Twin Trax™ Helix for TSS-98 with Engine Reverse (ER) Support (420715)

64-48-46/54-44-F Twin Trax™ Helix for TSS-98 NO Engine Reverse (ER) Support (420532)

70-44-46/70-40-46 Twin Trax™ Helix for TSS-98 NO Engine Reverse (ER) Support (420523)

Hlx, S, 66-44-46-E 66-46-46-E (420771)



Got bored and browsed team close out helixes. Not sure about last one. The angles look good but doesn't say it is for a tss98

 

[Team Polar]

Sounds good thanks Sean

 

[Z-Man]

Call Team before you order because I don't think all those are for snowmobiles. I called them and they told me if they have an S in the front it designates snow. Not sure, what that means about the ones that do not have it, they just told me they make clutches for other things. The bottom ones on their close out page.

I would think a higher first number and a 44 or 46 second number would be good on a Fusion. Third number .46.

The numbers Guido gave are the most recent suggested by IndyDan. 66-46-46 was one IndyDan suggested a couple years ago and it works much better than stock but may trench more. Team had the 58-46-46 helix's for $50 but they went quick.

 

[Z-Man]

Hlx, S, 66-44-46-E 66-46-46-E (420771)



Got bored and browsed team close out helixes. Not sure about last one. The angles look good but doesn't say it is for a tss98

This one is a Snow Helix and will work great for your Fusion or the RMK's. Get it quick though because for $50 on close out they will be gone quick as soon as people find out about them.

 

[sno_mo_racer]

This one is a Snow Helix and will work great for your Fusion or the RMK's. Get it quick though because for $50 on close out they will be gone quick as soon as people find out about them.

Thanks. Also it is time for a new secondary spring. Not really sure about what to get. Stock is 140-240 Red/Black. What would be the effect of going with a 140-260 finish in the Red/Pink?

 

[Z-Man]

I just put the black/white 160-260 in mine.

The heavier spring puts more squeeze on the belt and helps to keep it from slipping. If your spring is to light your sled won't back shift fast enough and could slip the belt causing heat. If your spring is to heavy it uses more HP and takes away from your HP to the ground. In racing you want to find the perfect balance, not so light that it slips but not so heavy that it costs you power.

My personal thoughts on this, is that I am not racing and would rather err to the heavier side and make sure the belt does not slip on the 900.

I know guys running the red/black 140-240 (stock on mine), the red/pink 140-260 and they are working well.

Dan Actually recommended a 160-300 which is only available in titanium for this sled using the 1115 belt in the mountains. He told me the Black/white 160-260 would work so that is the one I just installed.

 

[sno_mo_racer]

I just put the black/white 160-260 in mine.

The heavier spring puts more squeeze on the belt and helps to keep it from slipping. If your spring is to light your sled won't back shift fast enough and could slip the belt causing heat. If your spring is to heavy it uses more HP and takes away from your HP to the ground. In racing you want to find the perfect balance, not so light that it slips but not so heavy that it costs you power.

My personal thoughts on this, is that I am not racing and would rather err to the heavier side and make sure the belt does not slip on the 900.

I know guys running the red/black 140-240 (stock on mine), the red/pink 140-260 and they are working well.

Dan Actually recommended a 160-300 which is only available in titanium for this sled using the 1115 belt in the mountains. He told me the Black/white 160-260 would work so that is the one I just installed.

Thanks. I will try get a ride in tonight and check my clutch temps. If secondary is too hot then I will get the 140-260. If it is good then I will stick with the 140-240.

 

[High Velocity]

Team Polar, what year 900 do you have and what other mods are done ?

Here's what I run in my '06 (copied from a previous post):

My '06 900-159 has the SLP single and reflash, custom intake and V-Force 3 reeds, as well as about 60 lbs. of weight removed. I ride between 4,000 - 7,000 feet.
My clutching is : Primary - 74g MTX weights with 2g rivet in the middle and 3g rivet in the tip - total of 79 grams, SLP black/yellow spring
(120-310 if I remember correctly).
Secondary - 70-42-.46 with Red/Pink spring.
Gearing was 19/42. With this setup, sled pulled very hard, but was still hitting the rev limiter (8050 rpm) quite often (I was told by an SLP tech I met at the Edmonton sled show that with their package, peak power on the '06 is 7,600 rpm's). I've regeared to 20/42 and although it helped out with the over-rev quite a bit, I still hit the limiter occassionally. To that end, I'm going to try a different primary spring with a 10 lb. lighter finish rate. I've also had very good belt life with this setup. Ran one belt for over two dozen rides last winter and it still looks great. As well, my clutches only got clean twice last winter because of belt residue.

 

[Team Polar]

I have an 06 700

Stock cluching
SLP can
Gutted Air Box
Front Rad. Delete

From what I have read the stock cluching is going to work out for me if I can find the right helix to run. I would also like to regear I hear 19/42 is the best but can I get away with 19/41 if that happend to be an option that comes my way?

 

[Team Polar]

Not sure what the stock weights are but the stock springs are black/green Primarey and red/black secondary.
I ride 3000'-7000'