Helix angles for T-XP

[swrev]

Curious as to what helix angles other turbo XP guys are using. I currently have a straight 48. I am going to drag race the sled next week and the 48 seems to work well for straight shots so I'll probably leave it for now, but want to try a different helix for the mountains. My turbo is a Peak Performance kit but does not have their clutching. Peaks kit varies the start and finish by 4 degrees if I remember correctly (42/46??). A friend of mine w/ a cat varies by 10 degrees-- 36/46. What has everyone else tried and liked?

Thanks

 

[badass1000]

i have a dynomo joe cluth kit with the qr11 helix and his mountain ramps and it works great. Sorry I do not know what the helix angles are on it. I have not tried any thing else because it works great the way it is now.

 

[islanddoo]

I am using a 38/48 Helix with DJ's mountain ramps seems to work well. Clutches are staying fairly cool too!

 

[nuttyn01]

clutching

I used my shockwave to figure out the best combination for my secondary and I like a 40/48. I am running a white/white (250/380) in the primary with 435 ramps and power quest arms. I like the 435's because of the higher engagement. If you want a lower engagement 413's or 417's work well. You can get away with the stock arms up to about 24 to 25g's of pin weight. Any more than that and you get excessive belt squeeze and it gets a little boggey on the bottom. I had 29.5g's with the stock arms before I went with Power quest arms which allow me to play with weight location on the arms. Tory with power quest knows turbo clutching very well.

Hope this helps.

good luck

 

[swrev]

Thanks for all of the input. Where are you getting the reverse cut helix's w/ more than 4 degrees start to finish, are they custom cut? I haven't spent much time looking or calling around, I just haven't come across any w/ more than 4. I've only ran about 2/3 of a tank through the sled and am addicted to boost, should be a fun year!

 

[winter brew]

Dalton will cut any angles you want, check their website/catalog...they may have a standard cut that will work for you.

 

[nuttyn01]

secondary helix

I should have elaborated...it is actually a multi-angle...not a reverse cut.

Dalton part number Q 48/40

http://www.daltonindustries.com/products_skidoo_snowmobile.asp

Thanks for all of the input. Where are you getting the reverse cut helix's w/ more than 4 degrees start to finish, are they custom cut? I haven't spent much time looking or calling around, I just haven't come across any w/ more than 4. I've only ran about 2/3 of a tank through the sled and am addicted to boost, should be a fun year!

 

[swrev]

Thanks guys

 

[mtn-doo]

I have a Team Tied and run a straight 65 degree. That cross references to a straight 48. It works well in the mountains. You shouldn't need a reverse or multi angle. The turbo produces soo much horse power on top, it loves and NEEDS that pull on top. Otherwise you are waisting hp on the top, for a lot of empty rpm's. Give it a rip and see how you like it.

 

[islanddoo]

I guess I should of mentioned that my 38/48 was custom ordered from Dalton. I just wanted a lower helix angle for low speeds seems to wrk well though.

 

[mtn-doo]

We use the straight 48 for steep, tight tree and tetnical riding. Also geared down to a 19 tooth primary gear. It makes it very "explosive".

 

[swrev]

Had it in some good snow Friday. Man I love this thing. The deeper the snow the more power it seemed to produce. I was going out the top of hills that the other sleds were only making it halfway up and boondocking w/ a turbo is unreal.

On speed runs across meadows, it didn't work very well--it is being drag raced Saturday. Seemed to go really flat. I haven't pulled the primary to see what ramps, weights, or spring are in there, but it doesn't feel like it is loading the motor and will only pull 7800 on the flats--RPM is not an issue in a hill. Thinking of adding weight, I had a similiar problem w/ the twins I had on my Rev, needed weight to pull the R's. Any thoughts?

 

[islanddoo]

You really need to get the RPM's up turbos love to spin they really start to make power at 8200-8300. I would say take out some weight or turn up the Boost

 

[nuttyn01]

clutching

Your rpms on the flat will come up when you throw a steeper angle(48) at the secondary. The 40/48 will help in all types of riding. The 48 on top loads the motor in all riding conditions and the 40 at start or slower speeds helps not to load the motor to much before it builds boost.

Aren't these things ridiculous when you build boost.

Tory at power quest sent his arms to me and had one arm set up with weight based on what I was currently running. He said he would be suprised if I could pull the weight. I am running 10lbs of boost hitting 8300 rpm's and it will keep the ski's to the ski across a picked bean field as long as I have the balls to hold on to the throttle.

These 800r's love boost.

If you dont have a turboed 800r you need one.

 

[utah_sledder]

I tend to disagree about the reverse angle helix for high elevation riding. I think it is very important to state your elevation when posting your helix angles. While a 40/48 may work at 2000-3000 feet I can tell you that it does not work for me at 9000-10000. This is my experience anyway. Yes you need load to build boost on the top end, but a 48 breaks it's back at elevation. I have been testing a bunch with my T-XP at 7-8 lbs of boost and have found that the reverse angle helix fluctuates RPM like crazy at elevation and the backshift suffers when you pull the belt way low into the secondary.

I have had the best success with 45 to 44 start and 41 to 40 finish on a shockwave. I have 250/380 primary with 18.6 grams of weight. A straight 44 also works great in hero snow and 42-43 for deep snow.

 

[spacehog21]

white/white primary spring

Q50 helix

about 50% stiffer secondary spring rate than stock

Low gears - approx 80mph top

Super High Torque secondary rollers (a must if you hit an uphill patch of hardpack with 80 mph track speed and longtrack

wider gears, wider chain, as many teeth as possible on top sprocket (23t is best)

 

[swrev]

I'll am going to try a 43/47 helix I took out of my dad's 860 Doo. I'll let you guys know how the sled does in the drags this Saturday. Have a feeling that the 860's are going to have a hay day w/ me at 500', but we will see. I am able to build a couple of lbs of boost by holding the brake on the starting pads, so it does come off the line strong. Drags are at 4000', most of my mountain riding is 6000'-9000'.

 

[utah_sledder]

white/white primary spring

Q50 helix

about 50% stiffer secondary spring rate than stock

Low gears - approx 80mph top

Super High Torque secondary rollers (a must if you hit an uphill patch of hardpack with 80 mph track speed and longtrack

wider gears, wider chain, as many teeth as possible on top sprocket (23t is best)

Do 15 wide gears and chain work with the stock chaincase?

 

[spacehog21]

yes 15 wide top sprocket and chain

but 13 wide bottom sprocket

works well, no ratcheting, no chain stretching, can run chain at a smooth rolling tension without any problems