Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Head Bolt Sealant

do you have to seal the head bolts? i took mine off and just stuck them back in doing nothing...no problems yet, but curious...do you?

It depends on the make and model, but in general if the bolt goes into the water jacket they need a little sealant. Some engines rely on cooper washers but if you reuse them, all surfaces need to be clean. On metal gaskets that you want to reuse spray a little high temp silver paint on both sides to freshen it up, works on the copper washers also.
 
Back when I used to doo Doo warranty work, BRP advised us to use Anerboic Sealant which I have used on over 100 motors and thousands of transmissions, transfer cases, etc. and have never had a leak.

I'm not sure exactly what Polaris uses but it is much better than Permatex RTV. Permatex RTV is NOT shock proof. The stuff Polaris uses is. It's similar to Yamabond and 5150 but is way better than both of those.
 
if its a grey/white color most likely it is Three Bond 1217H..but any liquid pipe dope should work...
polaris does call for locktite 242 on the headbolts..but personally, I dont, and have never had an issue with a torqued main/rod/head bolt coming loose(use a quality torque wrench).....
 
Last edited:
As stated already the only thing the service manual calls for is loctite 242 on the head bolts, if you want to use a sealant anaerobic sealant is excellent stuff, it is the only sealant I use when rebuilding heavy duty hydraulic power shift transmissions and diffs, no gaskets at all and I have NEVER had one leak
 
dp

pipe dope, not too much. your just sealing the bottom of the bolt head to the top of the water jacket.
 
Only "goop" you need in your tool box is Three Bond 1211. Does everthing, been around for decades without being "improved" on.

I would have no problems with completely rebuilding an engine using no o-rings or gaskets (if they are not needed for clearances) with just 1211 bond.

Only problem with it is, price and it is too good. After 5000miles you will still need to tap parts apart with a dead blow mallet. It cleans up easy and is still pliable after 1000hrs of combustion or exhaust temperatures.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top