Same problem here. I'm sore for days after riding. I tried more preload on the front track shock and the sled didn't float as well. I now have the ski shocks so loose that the springs pop off on jumps. Just need to find a happy medium or try different skis.
Hard to turn Ski's while riding?
- Thread starter sleded800
- Start date
Hey Rudy great pic of your shock, your shock shows about 4 threads at the bottom mine are showing about 6 threads. I'm going to tighten my FTS till I have about 1" of threads showing at the bottom of the adjuster and ride the hell out my sleds. I'll post my findings to see if I felt that I lost any floatability, and if it seems that the track doesn't hook up as well.
G
gman086
Well-known member
Oh man, don't turn that in any more or you'll trench like a mofo!
No, seriously, TURN IT IN! You can always change it back easily on the trail if you don't like it. And mine still floated up very well with it turned in (certainly was no trencher). I think a big thing is if you're a heavyweight, then you'll flatten the suspension more and the FTS doesn't need to be cranked in but if you're under 200 lbs geared up, then CRANK THAT FTS UP!!!
Have FUN!
G MAN
PS - Having ski shocks with no preload is definitely NOT the answer - leave them at stock setting and stabilizer bar in!
Oh man, don't turn that in any more or you'll trench like a mofo!
No, seriously, TURN IT IN! You can always change it back easily on the trail if you don't like it. And mine still floated up very well with it turned in (certainly was no trencher). I think a big thing is if you're a heavyweight, then you'll flatten the suspension more and the FTS doesn't need to be cranked in but if you're under 200 lbs geared up, then CRANK THAT FTS UP!!!
Have FUN!
G MAN
PS - Having ski shocks with no preload is definitely NOT the answer - leave them at stock setting and stabilizer bar in!
i think i might turn in a bit because there is no room to decrease...i weigh 170-175 without gear,BTW the Assault's don't have a sway bar like the Pro RMK...this is what i'm gonna try ,FTS is at 8-1/4" will tighten to 8 the RTS is 10-1/4 will lengthen to 10 3/8 or 10-1/2" and put all clickers are 4.
G
gman086
Well-known member
Rudy,
The Assaults are a total different animal - my recommendations are for the Pro ONLY! The Assault's front arm is mounted 1" lower so you don't need to crank up the FTS pretension!
Have FUN!
G MAN
G MAN so are u saying to leave the FTS allow with what thread are showing and not to tighten it up?Or are u talking about not touching the preload on the IFS?...I don't plan on touching the IFS spring at all as i can just move the clicker....Biggest thing i want is the sled not to trench
G
gman086
Well-known member
For the Assault, yeah, leave the FTS soft. Firm up the rear spring to prevent too much transfer (ski lift/trenching in of the rear). If you ride a lot of steep and deep then consider drilling out the upper holes (pre-marked already) for relocating the front arm to the Pro's position. A lot of Assault owners are doing this for mtn riding.
Have FUN!
G MAN
I have the skid moved to the upper hole already..my RTS is at 10-1/4" u suggest to firm it up a bit,like 10"?....Just a question what if i left the spring at 10-1/4" and just moved to the clicker?Does that do the same as firming up the spring?
You have an Assault right?
Where's the front track shock spring set at? If he have moved the front suspension mounting up already and it's still trenching, loosen the front track shock a turn or two and or tighten the rear track shock spring a little, (10 1/8?)
T
theultrarider
Well-known member
Best thing you can do to get it to stop trenching is to throw the stock Assualt track in the garbage can and either put on an Rmk track or a camo extreme. nothing else you do to that sled will help your trenching issues.
yes have the Assault,if u look a few post un u will see how threads i have left,i really can't back off anymore.
I have the RMK powder track on the sled,when i snow checked it i had the option to go with either the powder or comp and i went with the powder....Might just have to wait until i hit the mtns again and play with the setting abit,otherwise love the sled.
T
theultrarider
Well-known member
G
gman086
Well-known member
Tighten up 1/8 turn at a time - the shock is that sensitive that small chanes can make a big diff. The clickers just affect how fast the shock compresses. Having too many clicks in shouldn't cause trenching but can exacerbate the problem so start somewhere in the middle.
Have FUN!
G MAN
A
ak
Well-known member
Oops some how I missed that. But the rail angle is different on the assault? Skidoo put a more aggressive angle on the front of there 2010 and newer summits and they do trench worse than the previous xps.
Question: Did anybody LOWER their pro?? My pro seems alot taller than the M's I ride with and it's alot tippier/harder to flip on its side and hold there.
Is i t just my setup??
My ski shocks are a tad shortened for a lower ride height and i thought about moving my front (and rear?) arm up another inch to complement the shorter ski shocks and lower my overall ride height.
RS
Is i t just my setup??
My ski shocks are a tad shortened for a lower ride height and i thought about moving my front (and rear?) arm up another inch to complement the shorter ski shocks and lower my overall ride height.
RS
R
Rrrrrrandyw
New member
I found this thread very helpful. i bought a 2011 Pro this year and at first just thought it was my imagination. A friend rode it and said Wow! I don't know how you can ride that all day. I then climbed on a 12 with a 163, (same as mine) and could not believe how much easier it was to steer. I actually had a brand new set of simmons Gen 2's laying around that I bought for my turbo and never used. Put them on the sled, and it made no difference at all in the way it steered. (However it did float better in the powder) I tore tendons in my ankle on the last ride and just had surgery, but you guys have given me some things to look at when I get up and about again. Thanks guys.
