i recently put a set of skins 10 in riser bars on my 04 switchback 700, and i was just wandering what you guys think of the strength of this setup from being raised so much, only reason i got the tens is cause i got a good deal on the bars and they had all the grips throttles n stuff on them, and feedback would be great
handlebar strength
- Thread starter switchback0410
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nope its the plate style, just used the factory mounting bracket, it feels alright hard to tell until i get it in some fluffly stuff, the bars were on a older xc so it had the same plate style i think only thing on them is it was a little lower, my switchbacks post come up a little higher
I would either pick up a T-post style or beef up your plate style post. I have a 6" riser on my sled with the plate style post and tore the plate off the post last April, during one of the best weeks of the year
. The plate is just too thin to last. I made a copy of the plate and had it welded over the old one, difference being my "new" plate is 3/8" thick. Held up to plenty of abuse already and cost was only about $12, 2 for the metal and 10 for the local welder to burn it on.
. The plate is just too thin to last. I made a copy of the plate and had it welded over the old one, difference being my "new" plate is 3/8" thick. Held up to plenty of abuse already and cost was only about $12, 2 for the metal and 10 for the local welder to burn it on.How can I beef up my plate style post
Not exactly how I did mine, but if I was to do it again:
Use a piece of 2" wide by 1/4" thick plate, cut it to the length of the plate thats already on the post. Punch a hole in the center of the plate that is about the same diameter as the post. Drill or punch the hole pattern to fit the bar risers. Grind the paint off the plate thats on the post and maybe an inch or two of paint on the actual post. Use some more of that 2"x1/4" plate and make gussets to triangulate between the post and the bottom of the plate on the post. Weld the new plate on top of the old one, then weld in the gussets on the left and right side of the post that tie into the plate. Paint it black and bolt your bar assemble back up. Pretty simple if you have a welder.
Or, you could always buy the chromoly T-style post that Hardass has for sale in the swap meet for $60 http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271608
Use a piece of 2" wide by 1/4" thick plate, cut it to the length of the plate thats already on the post. Punch a hole in the center of the plate that is about the same diameter as the post. Drill or punch the hole pattern to fit the bar risers. Grind the paint off the plate thats on the post and maybe an inch or two of paint on the actual post. Use some more of that 2"x1/4" plate and make gussets to triangulate between the post and the bottom of the plate on the post. Weld the new plate on top of the old one, then weld in the gussets on the left and right side of the post that tie into the plate. Paint it black and bolt your bar assemble back up. Pretty simple if you have a welder.
Or, you could always buy the chromoly T-style post that Hardass has for sale in the swap meet for $60 http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271608
ok, what makes the t post so much stronger, i mean its still got welds on top of the post right, but instead of a plate its a piece of 7/8 pipe right
On my plate style it was the HAZ (heat affected zone of the weld) on the plate that cracked and broke, basically the weld made the metal plate brittle and it cracked. The 7/8" tube probably wouldn't tear so easy. May have just come up with an analogy:
flat peice of paper, lift up on the edges as it sits on a table, bends easy, right? Now roll that piece of paper into a tube, lift on its edge, and it doesn't bend up so easy.
As for the chromo post, chromoly is pound for pound significantly stronger than mild steel. So if the chromo post is the same thickness as a stocker, its wwaayy stronger, or it could be same strength but quite a bit lighter. I would imagine the chromo post strikes a balance to provide alot more strenght than stock at a reduced weight.
flat peice of paper, lift up on the edges as it sits on a table, bends easy, right? Now roll that piece of paper into a tube, lift on its edge, and it doesn't bend up so easy.
As for the chromo post, chromoly is pound for pound significantly stronger than mild steel. So if the chromo post is the same thickness as a stocker, its wwaayy stronger, or it could be same strength but quite a bit lighter. I would imagine the chromo post strikes a balance to provide alot more strenght than stock at a reduced weight.
Ya that does make some sense, only problem is that the skins riser bats I have have to mount on the plate style, there is no risers on my setup, all of the ten in rise is in the bars, you could mount them on a t post bit you'd have to pot risers on to mount the bars which would make them taller
Hm, you could always see if it lasts for you, just keep a vise grip with so you have some way to steer it if the post breaks.
They're not immensely fragile, but after some time they tend to break. I would maybe just do the gusset between the post and the plate if I were in your shoes.
Do you do alot of deep snow mtn riding? Or more trails? Its the deep snow laying the sled over for carve turns that gets then.
.They're not immensely fragile, but after some time they tend to break. I would maybe just do the gusset between the post and the plate if I were in your shoes.
Do you do alot of deep snow mtn riding? Or more trails? Its the deep snow laying the sled over for carve turns that gets then.
well all this sled is gonna be used for is about two trips out to cooke city MT, for a few days at a time, and mabie a little ditch riding in minnesota its not my primary sled
Eh, it'll probably be fine then. Now you know what to do if it ever does let go though.
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