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Grip Glue

H

Heypal

Well-known member
Tonight I will be starting a handlebar project. This will include new RSI handwarmers and grips. With the extreme duty the RSI warmers are suppose to put out, what should I use for grip glue? I am worried that the old hairspray/spray paint method won't work becuase of the heat.
 
On a side note, what are the bars made of that these grips will be installed on? If aluminum, have you considered some insulation between the bars and heater element?

As for the glue, I can't answer that one.
 
On a side note, what are the bars made of that these grips will be installed on? If aluminum, have you considered some insulation between the bars and heater element?

As for the glue, I can't answer that one.

Nope, they are chromoly so I should be good to go. I thought about doing the Great Stuff trick and foaming the inside, but I don't want them to get TOO hot!
 
How about RSI's grip glue.

The booth at Haydays that I bought the parts from did not have the glue. So at this point I would have to order it online and pay shipping..arggh. So I was hoping there was somthing I could pick up at a local store.
 
Super glue! I haven't used the RSI grip glue, but Pro Taper grip glue sure seems like any other super glue to me. Have used super glue (much cheaper) and grips stayed in place just fine.
 
Safety wire.

Never used glue on my dirt bike, nor has my father-in-law and he's ridden them for 20 plus years and never had grip issues.
 
I used the RSI grip glue on my RSI bar, heater project to keep the RSI grips on and it lasted all of about 20 minutes...next time I went for a ride turned on my heaters and grip started twisting so I used some plain old super glue for a quick fix and it worked great.
 
Thanks for the input guys, I think I am going to try Gorilla Super Glue. I just hope it doesn't dry too fast that I can't get the grip on. MM, I suppose I could try a practice run on on stock bars/grips??
 
last yr i used those rsi tape grips. i was very skepticle at first. they worked great easy to put on and lasted all season. i bought a extra set and kept them in my backpack in case i did have a problem.
 
RSI grip glue didn't hold for long on my bars. I use and had good luck with E-6000 glue. Can be bought at Hobby Lobby. I use it on tons of different applications, and on a variety of different materials. Best all around glue I've ever used.
 
Here's my method and I have not had any issues...might be controversial for the glue users. :boxing:

ANY rubber grip has this release compound residue on it.

I wash new rubber grips inside/out very well with auto body wax/grease/silicone remover and then rinse them with a good detergent like simple green and then plenty of hot water. let them dry over night.... I do this to the spare sets that I keep on the ready and keep those in a zip lock bag to keep any dust or dirt off.

I then wipe the handlebars and grips with the same wax/grease/silicone remover and then a quick wipe of acetone to remove any remaining residue... using a super clean, lint free rag (i use old refugee linen cloth napkins). Let it sit for half an hour.

Don't touch it again with your bare hands (or anything oily for that matter)

After that is done.. I use low pressure compressed air nozzle to carefully walk the grip onto the bar with NO adhesive, hairspray etc... and leave it there... they don't walk/move on me...

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have a compressor with no water/oil remover... this may cause more problems.... if you don't have a good oil/moisture trap on the compressor...buy a cheap plastic inline oil/water trap from an auto store or good body shop supply (photo below) . ... when you are finished with it... keep it in a zip lock bag. Make sure that you drain the compressor tank and make sure you don't have water coming out... moist air is he!! on your air tools as well. If you have an inline oiler...tap into the air before the oiler... This is a big problem when using compressed air if the air itself is contaminating the rubber.

I'm a fan of the Motorguard brand of inline disposable filters. (less than $4 each... buy a few of them.) I have a good wall mounted separator and I still use the inline/disposables.

It is also important that that bars and grips are warm (indoors is best)

Often times adhesives warm up an cause more problems... which is why the RSI stuff is a two part hardening adhesive.

BUT... the big enemies, even if you use glue or safety wire are residue (like oil from your hands) and mold release wax/compound inside the grip from production.

The RSI/ODI grips should be looked at as an expendable "tool" to hold onto your sled... you should count on replacing ANY good grip at least once during the season if not more ( I go through 3 sets on average).... the stock Polaris grips... last about half the season before they get slick.... I like the RSI grips the best.

ALSO... clean the bars VERY carefully before putting on the grip heaters. If the heaters are not stuck well...neither will the grips.
On the extended heaters... the extension "T" goes on from the bottom of the hook, not over the top.

Safety wire is great if you know how to do it AND when you "tuck the tail" of the twist back inside the grip, you do not scratch the heater.

My 2 cents...:becky:


HAF-507-K12.jpg-60a6d1183082e02a669108b240b983dfbb1879aeimage.jpg











.
 
The booth at Haydays that I bought the parts from did not have the glue. So at this point I would have to order it online and pay shipping..arggh. So I was hoping there was somthing I could pick up at a local store.

Hit us up and we will cov er the shipping.
RSI
 
I used the RSI grip glue on my RSI bar, heater project to keep the RSI grips on and it lasted all of about 20 minutes...next time I went for a ride turned on my heaters and grip started twisting so I used some plain old super glue for a quick fix and it worked great.

Something happened. Lasted 20 minutes after letting dry for 24hours? Remember our heaters get hotter faster than oem, so if you run them super hot they can get got enough to breakdown a grip and glue in certain situations. Our glue does not break down till 250 deg F. Bigest thing is the install process and prep with any grip glue.
Let us know if we can help.
RSI
 
Here's my method and I have not had any issues...might be controversial for the glue users. :boxing:

ANY rubber grip has this release compound residue on it.

I wash new rubber grips inside/out very well with auto body wax/grease/silicone remover and then rinse them with a good detergent like simple green and then plenty of hot water. let them dry over night.... I do this to the spare sets that I keep on the ready and keep those in a zip lock bag to keep any dust or dirt off.

I then wipe the handlebars and grips with the same wax/grease/silicone remover and then a quick wipe of acetone to remove any remaining residue... using a super clean, lint free rag (i use old refugee linen cloth napkins). Let it sit for half an hour.

Don't touch it again with your bare hands (or anything oily for that matter)

After that is done.. I use low pressure compressed air nozzle to carefully walk the grip onto the bar with NO adhesive, hairspray etc... and leave it there... they don't walk/move on me...

IMPORTANT NOTE: If you have a compressor with no water/oil remover... this may cause more problems.... if you don't have a good oil/moisture trap on the compressor...buy a cheap plastic inline oil/water trap from an auto store or good body shop supply (photo below) . ... when you are finished with it... keep it in a zip lock bag. Make sure that you drain the compressor tank and make sure you don't have water coming out... moist air is he!! on your air tools as well. If you have an inline oiler...tap into the air before the oiler... This is a big problem when using compressed air if the air itself is contaminating the rubber.

I'm a fan of the Motorguard brand of inline disposable filters. (less than $4 each... buy a few of them.) I have a good wall mounted separator and I still use the inline/disposables.

It is also important that that bars and grips are warm (indoors is best)

Often times adhesives warm up an cause more problems... which is why the RSI stuff is a two part hardening adhesive.

BUT... the big enemies, even if you use glue or safety wire are residue (like oil from your hands) and mold release wax/compound inside the grip from production.

The RSI/ODI grips should be looked at as an expendable "tool" to hold onto your sled... you should count on replacing ANY good grip at least once during the season if not more ( I go through 3 sets on average).... the stock Polaris grips... last about half the season before they get slick.... I like the RSI grips the best.

ALSO... clean the bars VERY carefully before putting on the grip heaters. If the heaters are not stuck well...neither will the grips.
On the extended heaters... the extension "T" goes on from the bottom of the hook, not over the top.

Safety wire is great if you know how to do it AND when you "tuck the tail" of the twist back inside the grip, you do not scratch the heater.

My 2 cents...:becky:


HAF-507-K12.jpg-60a6d1183082e02a669108b240b983dfbb1879aeimage.jpg











.
Very True Eirc. Prep is the biggest thing. Our wrap grips are self adhesive and work very well for the non glue guys.

http://www.rsiracing.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=5&products_id=8

Thank you,
RSI
 
Bought a pair of aftermarket Ski-Doo grips about 10 years ago for my old summit 670.

The instructions with the grips said to use Isopropyl Alcohol. Clean the bars, pour iso in the grip, swish around, dump and slip on right away. No glue and the grips worked great.
 
Safety wire.

Never used glue on my dirt bike, nor has my father-in-law and he's ridden them for 20 plus years and never had grip issues.

Dirt bikes do not have heaters under them. Traditional glues will breakdown when hot, but our doesn't
 
last yr i used those rsi tape grips. i was very skepticle at first. they worked great easy to put on and lasted all season. i bought a extra set and kept them in my backpack in case i did have a problem.

Very nice, You know that our wrap grips are the only grip available to have 100% installation function out in the field within 5 minutes. No frip glue can get you new grips in 5 minutes.
 
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