governor cup question for tra7

[born2sled]

here is a couple pics of my governor cup in the top part there looks to be something sheared off a bit of the metal its hard to explain where exactly but you can see in the pictures i also circled it with windows paint any way my question is do you think it will effect the performance of my clutch or do you think it will be ok

 

[winter brew]

Are you running long pin weights? I assume it's in all 3 locations? If it's from the longer pin weights you have to run on higher clicker numbers (4+ usually, depending on the ramps) so they don't hit. Or get shorter pins.

 

[born2sled]

Are you running long pin weights? I assume it's in all 3 locations? If it's from the longer pin weights you have to run on higher clicker numbers (4+ usually, depending on the ramps) so they don't hit. Or get shorter pins.

i am not sure what it is from this is a used tra7 my other one was hooped so i took the one i got all apart and noticed those marks on the governor cup it is just on the one side dont know what it is from my main concern is do you think it is ok to use and will not screw up the performance of my sled

 

[winter brew]

Looks OK to use from what I can see in the picture.

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

is that primary used? Are you the 2nd owner of that primary clutch?

That is not from long pinweights. Pinweight no matter what length will clear the governor cup at-that-location by 3 millimeters.
I have seen that "wear" before when tuners have used TShift levers and/or the TS large pin kit and install fasteners and/or large diameter thin tungsten washers trying to get heavy pinweight.

By a quick look at the governor cup, I can also tell you that your primary spring cover bushing is worn at or larger than the wear limit.
http://www.mxzx-revzone.com/article/-162.asp

check your crank taper out of round
Joey

 

[born2sled]

is that primary used? Are you the 2nd owner of that primary clutch?

That is not from long pinweights. Pinweight no matter what length will clear the governor cup at-that-location by 3 millimeters.
I have seen that "wear" before when tuners have used TShift levers and/or the TS large pin kit and install fasteners and/or large diameter thin tungsten washers trying to get heavy pinweight.

By a quick look at the governor cup, I can also tell you that your primary spring cover bushing is worn at or larger than the wear limit.
http://www.mxzx-revzone.com/article/-162.asp

check your crank taper out of round
Joey

yes i am the second owner of the primary clutch i am just getting into the clutching part of snowmobiles.here is some pictures of the sliding sheave part not sure are those levers tshift levers or stock and also wondering i want to take apart and replace the bushing in behind the circlip on the sliding sheave do you just take out the circlip (how do you take out the circlip) and then press out the old bushing and press in the new bushing any help or advice about this from anyone is appreciated thanks

 

[gman086]

yes i am the second owner of the primary clutch i am just getting into the clutching part of snowmobiles.here is some pictures of the sliding sheave part not sure are those levers tshift levers or stock and also wondering i want to take apart and replace the bushing in behind the circlip on the sliding sheave do you just take out the circlip (how do you take out the circlip) and then press out the old bushing and press in the new bushing any help or advice about this from anyone is appreciated thanks

Those are stock arms and pins. Definitely replace the bushing; press in with a socket and use green loctite 609 (small amount around the race).

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[winter brew]

You need a smal pick to get the circlip started.....one end has a "recess" to get a pick into, then get a little screwdriver or needle nose pliers to twist it out. I usually replace it with a new clip.

 

[born2sled]

Those are stock arms and pins. Definitely replace the bushing; press in with a socket and use green loctite 609 (small amount around the race).

Have FUN!

G MAN

so i have to use a press then to get the bushing out

 

[winter brew]

so i have to use a press then to get the bushing out

No, it comes out easy....just a punch around the edge and it will come out.
Use more care with the new bushing