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Gonna build my own turbo kit need help

Hi everyone so decided i am gonna turbo my sled and i have a few questions hope someone can help. I have a 05 M7 with a speedwerx 800 BB kit in it. I have decided to run a garrett 2871 turbo with a .64 A/R with an attitude box. I am gonna ditch the speedwerx pipe, v-force reeds, and boondocker box and go with a stock pipe and reeds and go with an attitude box. I am only gonna run about 4-5 lbs of boost and run a 50/50 mix of premium and av gas. The oil pump I am gonna get from silber turbos and plan on running a 50 mm blow off valve. I have koso egts already installed and will be running an AEM air fuel guage. The oil tank, charge tube, exhaust, and intake i will fabricate myself. Some of the questions i have are:
- the 2871 is water cooled do i just tap into the cooling system for it
- what spring should i have in my blowoff valve fairly light i presume ( i have no idea)
- any special things i need to know about fabricating an oil tank and intake box?? I can TIG weld very well so everything will be aluminum
- the wiring can be questionable on these old M's so any help to keep it alive would help
- with this low of boost is the stock injector setup sufficient enough and what do i need for a fuel regulator etc.

I am sure i will have more questions as this progresses and i apologize for the long post but had to start somewhere. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanx in advance
 
.64 may be a little tight for the 28 series turbo. Usually .64 on 30 series only. Are you running internal wastegate or external? Ported cylinders are not good for turboing if you can help it. I'm installing a 3071 on mine right now. Thread in members builds. May give you an idea.
 
the stock injectors can handle 4-5 lbs of boost

Twisted sells a fuel regulator and a high volume fuel pump that is adjustable.
 
Sounds like a fun project!
-You may need a turbo specific head for you 800bb. Whats your comp ratio?
-You need a .86 housing on the gt28
-50/50 mix and 8lbs. Fun starts at 12+
-Use your throttle body heater lines to cool the turbo
-If using a generic BOV you may need to remove springs or cut the spring. Generally if you can't suck them open with your mouth the engine vac wont. If you really only running 6lbs skip the bov.
-You can baffle the oil tank so in a rollover situation it doesn't back feed into the turbo. Tank should be vented. Air box needs to have a mount so it cant blow off.
-For wiring the best solution is to add a CCU off of an m8. Keeps voltage consistent and you don't have to worry about balancing electrical use (headlight deletes etc)
-Stock injectors would be fine but you should over build this for 8-12 psi. Not sure if 5-6 is worth it. Extra injectors and the new dobeck style extra injector controller.
-Stock pipe, stock reeds, heavy tip mmsports or mds weights.
-Cold air intake outside of hood
-Extra motor mounts
-If you don't mind premixing (since your using avgas mix anyways) use the stock oil pump to feed the ball bearing turbo.
-High volume intake pump and FPR depends on your type of fuel controller
-Every electrical/plumbing line needs to be covered and secured

We can help you with anything you need. Don't rush, but turn that boost up a little don't be a $ussy.
 
I would use the 2871-2 .82ar garret, simple and works, don't have to deal with tail and those extra parts.
In fact I would copy a twisted kit, but its prob just as cheap and way easier to buy one.
 
just curious, have you budgeted for a couple of trial and error burndowns. at what point is it cheaper to buy a kit. if this does not concern you or you simply want to build a kit for something to do then disregard and have fun
 
I built a custom one for my dads m7, which we are upgrading this weekend, so i have been throught the motions of putting a kit together for this sled from scratch. if your good with fab thats a huge start, also got lots of info on the electrical/fuel side of things.

PM me and we can chat and I will steer you in the right direction for getting it fueled nice and simple, and hopefully very clean running.
 
Only running 5psi he doesn't need an upgraded fuel pump or injectors. I would think just a regulator. Said he has 12.5 ratio domes.

What i have suggested for him to do is to remove the stock mag side motor mount and get a solid mount with a harder duro from a snopro 440 like i have done.

I do not fully understand the compressors with garretts so i did not give any advice.

The magneto he would need to use to get a stronger DC output would be the new M6 stator. it will bolt straight up as the cases are the same. I am running a small trailer break away battery on my sled being charged with a AC/DC converter.

Have to keep in mind, this is HIS build, not what you would build, it's his sled, he can run how ever much boost he chooses. There's a line between helping, and pressuring.

If you had a new rider come with you, and he wanted to climb a bunny hill and asked advice which way to go, would you disregard it and start telling him how to climb a chute?
 
I personally dont think it is neccessary to run a different stator or battery. I have put as much electrical load on M7s as M8s with no issues unless you try to ground both the AC side and the DC side of the rectifier at the same time. ( long story)

Skidooinit and Everytime have lots of great data for you. I would suggest that you listen to them. Ya gotta watch out for Visi....LOL just kidding, he is doing a great job on his first turbo build too.

I really learned a ton building my first kit. I still like to set my fuel system up a bit differently than some, but i like buying airboxes and oil tanks..... Not to save welding, but to get the machined precision where it counts.

Good luck on your build!
 
Have to keep in mind, this is HIS build, not what you would build, it's his sled, he can run how ever much boost he chooses. There's a line between helping, and pressuring.

If you had a new rider come with you, and he wanted to climb a bunny hill and asked advice which way to go, would you disregard it and start telling him how to climb a chute?

If a rider came to me with a 1000 & said he was going to put an 800 pipe & can on it, run 4 resistors for the one headlight he was going to pull, and add some weights to the front of the sled to keep the front end down... you better bet I'd "pressure" him to stop for a minute, do some searching as to what other folks have done, and perhaps learn from others' mistakes.

Someone asks for advice, and explains what they're planning, then people will give advice, and perhaps explain how to do what he WANTS... just in a better way, that many have learned from experience.

The fact that the OP is talking about running that fuel for 4 lbs of boost, and the compressor he's talking about, says that he's likely pretty new at it, and could likely benefit from some knowledge that many on here have, that they gained though experience.


Or people could do what a dooshe would do, and tell him that a bad idea is a great one, and wait for him to fail, laughing at how smart they are in the meantime. I've been on the receiving side of BOTH... and I'll take the advice posted here over the other option.
 
There are some pretty good deals out there with machines already boosted up too.

But to challenge your self and make your own that works, learn/trial and error will be very rewarding I'm sure.

I bought a kit for mine so I cant say to much, but what I will say is that I'm not to fond of the attitude fuel box, I will be getting a boost it for this year, It requires 4 injectors though. Think about doing four injectors right away just so you have them when you want more hp's later:face-icon-small-win

Good luck!
 
First off I'd like to say thanx to everyone for their responses and helpful info. Second the reason i wanna build it myself is because i enjoy doing these types of things and its an excellent learning experience if it blows up then i rebuild it figure out what went wrong and try again. When i dont have to fork over alot of cash for a new sled just to blow it up i can handle a burn down or two. Everyone on here knows its not a matter if a two stroke is gonna blow its a matter of when. I do have a backup sled to ride but since i work away most of the winter it wont kill me to have one sled down. Again thanx to everyone for ur help and I will be in touch asking for ideas.
 
Getting you own kit up and working will defiantly put a bigger smile on you face then buying one. But you are going to have to take some of the advice here or your going to end up with a bad experience. Most of the stuff here listed will get you a great base for a kit. Get a different turbine housing, you may not burn down you motor with the .64 but it is going to be hard to tune (it is not much fun keeping one eye on you air fuel gauge all the time) The .64 will not make power at 5 psi. 2-stroke tuning is about a balance between intake and exhaust pressure! The .86 housing will get you close to what you need. I found that 8 psi boost and 10.5 psi in the exhaust pipe works well. The turbine housing is one factor that dictates this

Upgrade your fuel system. You need extra injectors, I would not build a kit without them on a m8 unless your at 12000 feet all the time, you can even just run one injector in you charge tube and run the polaris walbro fuel pump.

Do not plan on running 4 – 5 psi, you are building a kit to make your sled RIP not run a little better than stock. I have set up fuel controllers before that start adding fuel @ 2.5psi of boost so 4psi is not ripping.

I believe a well setup and tuned kit will actually add longevity to your motor, do not include blowing your motor up in your plans, plan on building and tuning the best kit you can.

Good luck with it dude!
 
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i enjoy doing these types of things and its an excellent learning experience if it blows up then i rebuild it figure out what went wrong and try again. When i dont have to fork over alot of cash for a new sled just to blow it up i can handle a burn down or two. Everyone on here knows its not a matter if a two stroke is gonna blow its a matter of when. .

I can relate! I always want to know "how it ticks and can i make it tick faster".

The learning curve could involve piston or five, but when they go, often the turbo is ruined. It takes the affordable fun right out of the equation, but we still have the learning part....LOL.

I think some the folks above have been trying give you the basic formula to save the expense that they (and I) had in our learning curves. Take the time to patiently gather up your stuff and put your system together.

In my mind, the fuel system is the heart of making it all go consistently. Get that right and the rest can vary a fair amount. The funny thing, its prolly the lowest cost part of the project, but the part that most dont want to worry about.

Again good luck....it will be fun!
 
After building/ putting together a it myself with help of people on here, especially tonysnoo, here are recommendations...

*Run a common turbo, that way people can help you diagnose problems... Try to keep your setup close to what the kits are... like garrett 2871 0r 2876 etc.

*Run a cold air intake, no matter what...

*You could start with a 2 injector setup, but search the classifieds for parts. I found a air box/ 4 injector set and turbo oil tank for decent price. Just make sure you know what you are buying, some ppl are shady.

*M7 wiring is easy, you can do the ac/dc rectifier or m8 ccu... Many options.

* Putting the kit together yourself is a huge advantage because you know where everything is. I also disagree with selling the m7 to go to a m8. There isnt much of a difference, it has been proven that the m7 can be turboed.
*Start a build thread, send people PM's and ask a lot of questions.
 
Yes the M7 can run with a M8 but the M8 has a lot more support along with the det sensor. Like i said, time and money ahead with the M8. And a M8 will have reverse.
As for a M8 needing 4 injectors, that's not true at all. I have hours of seat time on M8s with 2 stock injectors and no burn downs and turbo wheelies all over the place.
 
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