GEO/ELVIS update#2 (New setup specs)
- Thread starter elvis1280
- Start date
Thats the best part..if you don't like it, switch it back
G
geo
Well-known member
I still gets lots of PM's about this and if it trenches lol.
So I copied and pasted one reply hoping to help some improve their ride.
Trenching on this skid is from; #1 too loose of a track, #2 middle spring too tight or stiff, #3 improper rear pressure.
Each one of the above is a big deal. #3 is why I prefer a coil over shock (easier to set and forget with the correct spring) in this style of skid. #1 is what most people get wrong (a loose track balloons out the front and then wraps back in from snow pressure, with the big gap between the drivers and skid rails this just kills your attack angle). #2, just snug is always the best for this skid unless you focus your fun on trails.
If you stick with the single body air shock you need to work in 2 to 3 lb increments to get the proper lift and different depths of snow need different amounts of lift on any skid (this is the reason for adjustable coupling on aftermarket skids). 2 or 3 lbs at full extension is a lot more at mid stroke and beyond.
When I ran the air I used an adjustable add on body from Nextech. So instead of changing air pressure I would screw in the knob for less lift (less air volume) or out for more lift. Too much lift is trenching and not enough is heavy feeling (but goes good in the deep).
This Mod for the air skid changes the ratio of the shock travel to skid travel (more vertical). It allows you to run less air pressure initially (comfort or fun) and still not bottom because it uses all the travel available in the shock instead of just some.
Hope it helps some. I liked it and never had trenching probs. I liked it for the added adjustability in lift and comfort.
I also liked it because it was free lol.
So I copied and pasted one reply hoping to help some improve their ride.
Trenching on this skid is from; #1 too loose of a track, #2 middle spring too tight or stiff, #3 improper rear pressure.
Each one of the above is a big deal. #3 is why I prefer a coil over shock (easier to set and forget with the correct spring) in this style of skid. #1 is what most people get wrong (a loose track balloons out the front and then wraps back in from snow pressure, with the big gap between the drivers and skid rails this just kills your attack angle). #2, just snug is always the best for this skid unless you focus your fun on trails.
If you stick with the single body air shock you need to work in 2 to 3 lb increments to get the proper lift and different depths of snow need different amounts of lift on any skid (this is the reason for adjustable coupling on aftermarket skids). 2 or 3 lbs at full extension is a lot more at mid stroke and beyond.
When I ran the air I used an adjustable add on body from Nextech. So instead of changing air pressure I would screw in the knob for less lift (less air volume) or out for more lift. Too much lift is trenching and not enough is heavy feeling (but goes good in the deep).
This Mod for the air skid changes the ratio of the shock travel to skid travel (more vertical). It allows you to run less air pressure initially (comfort or fun) and still not bottom because it uses all the travel available in the shock instead of just some.
Hope it helps some. I liked it and never had trenching probs. I liked it for the added adjustability in lift and comfort.
I also liked it because it was free lol.
Is antistab a MUST with this mod?
Yes.
Sent from my i-thingy
Sent from my i-thingy
I guess I should explain a little more. I said yea to the fact of having one in general, not for specifically this mod.
They are a good purchase
I
Sent from my i-thingy
They are a good purchase
I
Sent from my i-thingy
BDX Antistab the way to go?
I added the BDX antistab kit as well. They are inexpensive and worth it.
Like the Cat super thick and wide skid plate I added to my sled, it's cheap insurance against things you just can't see coming. Based on huge gouges directly under my secondary clutch, I think the skid plate has more than paid for itself.
It's hard to tell if the antistab kit has done it's job but, based on my sled not having stabbed the track in several years of deep snow abuse and jumping, I would say the kit has done well.
Like the Cat super thick and wide skid plate I added to my sled, it's cheap insurance against things you just can't see coming. Based on huge gouges directly under my secondary clutch, I think the skid plate has more than paid for itself.
It's hard to tell if the antistab kit has done it's job but, based on my sled not having stabbed the track in several years of deep snow abuse and jumping, I would say the kit has done well.
iv got my geo mod in the bottom hole it works great do you think it would work better in the middle hole and I was wondering it any one has ever put a 14inch long fox float on the front with the geo mod and how it would work the timber sled runs the 14inch shock and the attact angle is steeper and the new xm is the same as well on the two I measured everything and its the same except the cat shock is 11.5 and the skidoo is 14 same with the timber skid for the m8
I have messed with these M's for awhile and I can tell you the problem is with the stock locations. I had a M w a Pclaw 2.25 and moved the front arm location to the lower hole(you have to drill it out) and the sled boondocked ten times better, it also popped out on top on the snow better but sucked climbing bad.
So on another trip the reeds went on my 11 M8 and I rode a 12 Pro Polaris and my buddy was on his 10M8 and the Polaris got up on the snow better then the M,s ( both M's had the front arm in the stock holes ) after this side by side I got my friends Polaris in my garage and started measuring/ compairing , then I bought a PC and started measuring and compairing.
Right now I have a 10M8 with a 2.6 . 162 with a Timbersled skid in it and I think it climbs great but find the front heavy when boondocking. I also have a 11M8 with a 153-2.25 but I put rails from a PC in it and basically moved both skid arms forward 2". Sled jumps up on the snow and climbs good for a 2.25 -153 and as a big bonus it rides 10 times better on the trail up !! I always stand to the front when I ride and weigh 205 before gear FWIW
I'm removing the timber skid and putting in a 162 PC rails w M arms.
I'm not taking anything away from the guys back in 09 the worked on a fix for the skid in the old M. I basically just Took ideas from other sleds and other people. Learn as you go and do what works for you.
So on another trip the reeds went on my 11 M8 and I rode a 12 Pro Polaris and my buddy was on his 10M8 and the Polaris got up on the snow better then the M,s ( both M's had the front arm in the stock holes ) after this side by side I got my friends Polaris in my garage and started measuring/ compairing , then I bought a PC and started measuring and compairing.
Right now I have a 10M8 with a 2.6 . 162 with a Timbersled skid in it and I think it climbs great but find the front heavy when boondocking. I also have a 11M8 with a 153-2.25 but I put rails from a PC in it and basically moved both skid arms forward 2". Sled jumps up on the snow and climbs good for a 2.25 -153 and as a big bonus it rides 10 times better on the trail up !! I always stand to the front when I ride and weigh 205 before gear FWIW
I'm removing the timber skid and putting in a 162 PC rails w M arms.
I'm not taking anything away from the guys back in 09 the worked on a fix for the skid in the old M. I basically just Took ideas from other sleds and other people. Learn as you go and do what works for you.
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What sucked about climbing did it just want to wheelie ?
yes, and when you would get yourself right up leaning over the bars it just lost mph real quick.
