Gearing for TM1000 with 3"

[manlye]

What gearing would you guys recommend for a TM1000 with a 3" track? Most of my riding is boodocking, and am setting up the sled for it.

I was thinking of going 55/65. Is this too low for the power on tap should I move it up? My thinking is to gear it down to begin with then additionally compensate for the 3".

Last but not least is the high torque DD gears worth it??

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

[Polarisrocks]

My 174 2 1/2 is geared at 55/65 and its plenty fast.. Geared down saves me belts.

 

[manlye]

Thanks for the help, I kind of figured 55/65 would be fine but it's good to hear some real world usage.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

When everything works right I would not change gears. Gears that low you are losing huge potential.

I've always ran taller gears and I always beat the sleds with low gears. I'm running 2.42 on my 14 with 3" and it kills my 16 with stock 2.86. I would never go lower then 2.5. Even when I had 1000's all the geared down ones didn't have anything on mine with 60/60 gears.

The reason some thing low gears work on the 1000 is because it gives it more time to shift. If you want the most out of the sled you have to install a lot of motor mounts so the clutches stay aligned. Then get the secondary rebuilt by bdx, they machine it so it's true (better than stock) and put a 911 clutch cover on.
I would run 60/60 but the belt can get hot, if you gear down to 57/63 it's no worries on the belt but I'll change a belt every 3-500 miles over give up performance.

Do what you want but this gear down thing is crazy.

 

[smokindave]

I run 59/61 on mine and am very happy with its performance,I've never shreaded a belt on it.
I did spin one inside out in a cut block while jumping a stump.


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[manlye]

Geared down wouldn't you get on boost faster, less lag at the same track speed?


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[Polarisrocks]

More details are needed? What do you weigh? How long of track? If belt life is key, you will double your belt life gearing down if its a 174 and you are 250 lbs or more. My belt life went from one a day eating a belt to once every 5-6 rides. I am 320 lbs so I am way harder on belts than a little guy.

 

[smokindave]

More details are needed? What do you weigh? How long of track? If belt life is key, you will double your belt life gearing down if its a 174 and you are 250 lbs or more. My belt life went from one a day eating a belt to once every 5-6 rides. I am 320 lbs so I am way harder on belts than a little guy.

Ahhh now I see why you gear down so much,I'm at 165-170 lbs.
I have a 3" 174 track on mine.


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[WyoBoy1000]

The hit off throttle is produced through clutching not gears,

No matter what the weight is I would never do more than 57/63.

I've always fixed the clutching issues and then there is no issue with gears, the 1000 has torque and if you drop gearing your get away from using it.

 

[manlye]

I'm 235 geared up probably 270. Going with a 162 3" PC. On all the M1000's I have had they have not been geared down, but as much as I messed with clutching the initial hit of track speed up to say 20mph was just way to "light and fast" at 1/4 throttle the torque just trenched the sled.

This is my first turbo M1K and after riding it with 60/60 it just seems like that initial on the throttle hit is the same. I'm only looking at taking this thing out on the big dump days, when I need the power of the M1k, so with that being said in 2-3FT of POW which gearing have you found better? Thanks for all of the help BTW.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I would leave it stock and test, depending on your riding style and how fluffy the snow is, (heavy vs light powder) there is a clutching setup that will work.

 

[manlye]

Thanks!


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[WyoBoy1000]

Send your secondary to bdx and get rebuilt, they cause most of the belt issues, then it's the stock primary cover, hence the 911 billet cover
The Lindemann motor mount is pretty much a have to as well, the more mounts the better, STM has some to

 

[Hardass]

Not everyone is after all out speed and performance but want a setup that works great for what they do on there sled. So whats good for one may not be the best for others.If your racing your going to want tall gears if your on off throttle alot in the trees up and down ravine and gullys around tree wells and doing some climbing . I personally like a lower gear set.And in my world lower gears do give you more grunt off the bottom.

 

[manlye]

Hardass what gearing are you running?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Not everyone is after all out speed and performance but want a setup that works great for what they do on there sled. So whats good for one may not be the best for others.If your racing your going to want tall gears if your on off throttle alot in the trees up and down ravine and gullys around tree wells and doing some climbing . I personally like a lower gear set.And in my world lower gears do give you more grunt off the bottom.

That's how I ride, I don't race and rarely just climb, 90% technical hard riding. Just got what I wanted through clutching for this kind of riding and wound up better staying with stock gears but like I said some may want a little lower, I think it's crazy to lower but to each their own.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Mainly all I'm saying is get everything else working how it should, do the gearing last if your going to do it.

Tall gears will show you the full potential, low gears will cover up other issues, so if you get it dialed first and decide you want to drop then at least you know it's all working.

My pc is geared petty high for what it is and it pulls a lot harder than my 16 pc on top, about 4mph more track speed same day same hill, absolutely no belt issues since I fixed all the clutch bs. It's also far snappier then other 14 and 15's . Granted it is not a turbo I do have experience with both and I've just never seen any gain s with gearing down unless it was to compensate for bad clutching and motor movement.

Make sense?

 

[manlye]

Gotcha it makes sense, question if I'd do drop gearing after I make sure clutching is on point, would this require re-clutching?


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[WyoBoy1000]

Gotcha it makes sense, question if I'd do drop gearing after I make sure clutching is on point, would this require re-clutching?


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Not likely unless you dramatically change gears,

Ask the factory setups the clutching had pretty much been the same even though the gears are different.

In the m sleds if you notice the m1000 was 60/60 and rpm was 7400 max
The m8 was 57/63 with rpm of 7800
M8 HO ___ can't remember for sure but somewhere around 55/65 rpm 8150

So they all pretty much had the same speed based on rpm.

The diamond drive alone if I remember is a 2.33 reduction with 8 tooth drivers. So if you get to low is real easy to shift the clutching into overdrive which can cause belt slip.

 

[manlye]

Ok I get the thinking, thanks!


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