Gear ratio w/quickdrive
- Thread starter Luvinit
- Start date
From the Pod Cast the overall final drive ratios are:
2.6 track w/belt drive - 2.23:1
3" track w/chaincase - 2.52:1
2.6 track w/belt drive - 2.23:1
3" track w/chaincase - 2.52:1
On the chaincase equipped 3" version AXYS. In order to get a final drive of 2.52:1... the sled would have to be geared 19-tooth top, 44-tooth bottom...
At 2.52:1 (final drive) ... The actual GEAR ratio would be...2.32:1
With the smaller diameter 7 tooth, 3" pitch driver ... you increase the ratio by a factor of .92 (Gear ratio ÷ .92 = final drive ratio)
2.32 ÷ .92 = 2.52
More details in this tread
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=369638
On the QuickDrive equipped AXYS sleds... the gearing is 22-tooth top, 43 tooth bottom gear => 1.96:1 GEAR ratio... with the 7-tooth, 2.86" pitch driver, it would give you a final drive ratio of 2.22:1 ... Polaris must be rounding up to get the 2.23:1
.
.
At 2.52:1 (final drive) ... The actual GEAR ratio would be...2.32:1
With the smaller diameter 7 tooth, 3" pitch driver ... you increase the ratio by a factor of .92 (Gear ratio ÷ .92 = final drive ratio)
2.32 ÷ .92 = 2.52
More details in this tread
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=369638
On the QuickDrive equipped AXYS sleds... the gearing is 22-tooth top, 43 tooth bottom gear => 1.96:1 GEAR ratio... with the 7-tooth, 2.86" pitch driver, it would give you a final drive ratio of 2.22:1 ... Polaris must be rounding up to get the 2.23:1
.
.
Thanks guys, that,s the info I needed, was hoping for a little lower gearing, but that,s not bad for factory considering every brand has always gone middle of the road, I,ve always geared down on my own after buying them. My two pro,s are 2.3 and 2.25, factory drivers, the 2.3 is better but 2.25 works ok.
G
geo
Well-known member
Maybe,,, '13 top pulley, '16 bottom pulley, '16 belt and Fire and Ice tensioner??
First AXYS mod???
that Fire n Ice tensioner doesn,t actually put any tension on the belt, it is supposed to br set so it is an eighth of an inch away from the belt, is designed to prevent ballooning of the belt when off throttle, so it doesn,t snap back and break when you get back on it.
If it were me, I'd rework the C3 '13+PRO RMK tensioner, but if you are going to that extent you may as well run the C3 sprockets, a real belt for half the price and have any ratio you desire. FWIW
My guess would be C3 would have their complete Belt drive for it out by the first of the year, unless the Yeti Project gets in the way.
K
kswitch
Member
What's the long answer?
Actually i think it is going to work. I put 13-15 sprockets on my axys with the axys belt and the tension seems to be same as stock. I think its going to work but only time will tell
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Long answer... well... it seemed to work for Rich... but the math doesn't exactly...
Increasing one on top and decreasing one on the bottom is not the same increase in circumference.... I believe.
Best to field this one to rich racer... he's done it and has had luck... I believe.
.
Increasing one on top and decreasing one on the bottom is not the same increase in circumference.... I believe.
Best to field this one to rich racer... he's done it and has had luck... I believe.
.
MH, will you break down the math for us? I'm likely going to do this to my sled so I would like to see how "close" the numbers really are.
I could do it myself, but then my head would start to hurt and it sounds like youve already done it anyway
Thanks, EricMH, will you break down the math for us? I'm likely going to do this to my sled so I would like to see how "close" the numbers really are.
I could do it myself, but then my head would start to hurt and it sounds like youve already done it anyway
I have the Gates Carbon Belt Drive Design Formulas on the lap top at the house, I can post them tonight if someone does not beat me to it.
I crunched all the numbers when I was considering offering a belt drive with gear ratio options. But C3 stepped up for me and I've never looked back.
Mountainhorse, I do believe you are wrong here. The spacing from one tooth to the next tooth on the top gear has to be exactly the spacing from one tooth to the next on the bottom gear or the belt would not mesh. If you take one tooth off one gear and add it to the other, and use the same belt, you will have the exact same tension.
It will be close, and you will have nearly the same number of total teeth engaged, BUT the difference comes from the angle change between the top and bottom sprockets! Trust me I crunched all the numbers when the QD was announced to be released in 2012 for the '13 MY. While close and possibly close enough. It is not the SAME tension, if it were we could run any ratio we wanted as long as the total number of teeth remained the same. It does NOT work out, unfortunately. It may or may not be close enough to tolerate the difference. The choice is yours.
I understand that the more they change, the more the ratio changes. For example you can't have a top gear with 1 tooth on it and add all the teeth to the other gear, it simply distorts the objective. But, I bet you cannot notice any tension difference and I would go out on a limb and say that tolerance and belt temperature and gear temperature are more of a factor to tension than moving one tooth from the top to the bottom gear.
All interesting. However, I love the way my 16 163 by 2.6 is geared stock. I think the gearing on the chain drive 3 inch track models is too low. My friend geared his up and it worked better for him. He had a pipe and porting but it worked better either way. He ended up putting a Camso 3 by 174 on it and stayed with the higher gearing. That is a heavy track and 11 inches longer.
I went all last season with the sprockets from my '14 on my Axys also running 8T 2.86 Avid drivers. The group I ride with are climbers, so my sled saw lots of WFO throttle for fairly long periods - some of the climbs were around an 1/8 maybe sneaking up on 1/4 mile. FWIW, one of the guys I ride with, Kevin from KMOD, was aware of this experiment and that it could be a miserable failure resulting in my sled needing to be towed out because of it. As it is, the belt looks great and will be in use again this season only difference this season is I'm going to try it with 7T 3.0" Avid drivers and a 3.2" track on a new Axys Assault steel drive shaft (which is very close in weight to the "lite weight" drive shaft with 8T 2.86" Avid drivers - you will need the shorter bolt for the lower pulley, like what was on the 13-15 Pro-RMK - I went with 25mm long instead of 20mm.
Think what you want. Try it or don't try it, makes no difference to me. You never learn anything if you never try something new.
If I get some motivation in the next couple of weeks, I may just see what a mix of Axys and Pro-Ride pulleys and may feel like to install - initial guess is a no go but what the heck, I got some ARP bolts to install on the pulleys anyway.
Last edited:
Similar threads
