Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Gauge and tail lights not working!

Hello!, last week i started the Pro to check for problems before selling it and noticed that the gauge "cluster" and tail light was not working.
The gauge was just black with no lights working for brake and reverse etc etc. :face-icon-small-dis

The tail light is also black and the brake light does not work either.

Headlights(hi,lo), reverse work without problems.

:help:
 
Just thought of a thing, could it be the voltage regulator for the lights?, there are 2 regulators on the 2012 Pro rmk right?

The engine is running fine so i thought of the other regulator, i mean if it's going bad is that why only the halogen lights get power? , LED's need a certain amount of current to even start, same for the gauge maybe? ,or am i talking poop right now x)
 
Last edited:
So i changed the voltage regulator and it didnt do ****.

For summary:

-Problem-
Gauge and Tail(led)light not working.

-Checked-
Hood cable, voltage regulator, visible damage to cables.

Seriously what could be wrong? , am i the only one having this problem? :(
 
Since the wiring went out to the lowest bidder and its mostly aluminum, it breaks easy. I just had to rewire a section that this happened to. You may need to start checking continuity and go from there.
 
Since the wiring went out to the lowest bidder and its mostly aluminum, it breaks easy. I just had to rewire a section that this happened to. You may need to start checking continuity and go from there.

Not to take this off track, but is anyone making a quality replacement wiring harness for these yet?

Seems like a no brainer when everything is electrical on these things anymore. A decent harness made with arctic grade, fine strand copper wire that retains flexibility in the subzero temps would be awesome and well worth a slight weight increase for the piece of mind.

Sorry for the derail, just thinking out loud. Back to the issue at hand.
 
Since the wiring went out to the lowest bidder and its mostly aluminum, it breaks easy. I just had to rewire a section that this happened to. You may need to start checking continuity and go from there.

I have now done some testing with a multimeter. I think the problem is around the chassis relay.
I tested the socket for the relay and got 14v when meassuring directly to ground but i cant seem to find a ground going to the relay?

I looked at a wiring diagram and saw that the ground should come from the ECU, i then checked for cable damage between the relay and the ECU socket, no damage there :face-icon-small-con

Is the ECU regulating whether or not to give ground to the relay or what? :face-icon-small-sho
 
This is from memory, so if I'm not right on all the wires, sorry.

There is a relay on the Aframe just in front of the steering post. Make sure there is power getting to it (red wire I think or red/white). There should also be a red or red/white wire leaving the relay. With the sled running, check to see if it is getting power across the relay. There should be a diagram on the relay that makes it obvious which wire I am talking about when circuit closes. The wire leaving relay powers gauge and some other accessories.

You can 'jump' the connector to check if your gauge lights up and then order the right relay. The dork at the auto parts store sold me the wrong one when I brought mine in. Had the same problem on my 2011. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
I don't want to derail your thread but I have an '11 rmk and the only thing that doesn't work is the grip heaters. I know that the lights and grips are AC tho.
 
The gauge and the tail/brake lights get 12vdc from the ECU voltage regulator. They are in no way related to the headlights or handwarmers or starter/battery.

First thing to check with any electrical issue is the ground wire bundles. Those are mounted to the front bumper tab on the PTO side of the front overstructure... If you took any hits to the front bumper... and that tab broke off...or cracked... you can have issues. If the bolt came loose or there is corrosion you can have issues.

dttrusko is on the right track... The Chassis relay, red/white circuit, is what powers those items...That relay is triggered by the ECU.

If your sled starts and runs, but does not power up these items... then you have a faulty relay, Faulty relay ground or faulty wires from that relay (most likely relay)

To test if the relay and wiring is OK...pull the relay, Start the sled and put a jumper wire between the Solid-RED and the RED-with-WHITE-stripe connections in the relay connector on the harness.

DO NOT put the jumper wire on in the connector before starting the sled. Start the sled...let it idle...THEN put the jumper in.

Polaris Maunal:
Chassis Relay: The chassis relay on DC-CFI
models supplies power to the MFD gauge,
accessory plug and DC power test plug.

The chassis relay is activated by the ECU at
approximately 950 RPM. Below 950 RPM, all
power supplied by the ECU regulator/rectifier
(RED circuit) is used to power the ECU
and fuel pump.

If you need the relay... you can get one from NAPA, I believe PN AR606, or a cross ref from another parts store. Delco C1725A is a cross for that as well.







.
 
Last edited:
MH, out of curiosity, what could potentially happen if the relay is jumped before starting?
 
Premium Features



Back
Top