Garage Floor coating

[SNOW JW]

Ok guys tell me what you think.

I use steel wheels on rollers and plastic slicks to take the sleds in and out other than that I am realy carefull.

So what type of coating or tiles or what do you recomend for the floor???

The U-Coat it stuff looks good just real spendy and will it last?? I was in a Hanger the other day and it had the gloss white and it looked great was super shiny and reflected the light very well not sure of the brand name.

I was also thinking is there a tile or something that you can lay down that is as nice???


Just looking for some ideas and is anyone a dealer for this stuff on SW????

 

[Gimpster]

Ok guys tell me what you think.

I use steel wheels on rollers and plastic slicks to take the sleds in and out other than that I am realy carefull.

So what type of coating or tiles or what do you recomend for the floor???

The U-Coat it stuff looks good just real spendy and will it last?? I was in a Hanger the other day and it had the gloss white and it looked great was super shiny and reflected the light very well not sure of the brand name.

I was also thinking is there a tile or something that you can lay down that is as nice???


Just looking for some ideas and is anyone a dealer for this stuff on SW????

What ever you decide on using, dry time is crucial for it to last. I have seen tiled floors ruined by parking heavy objects on them too soon. Coatings I like to go with a good epoxy type as it is more durable. To try keep paint cost down in my shop, I used an enamel based paint last may. Have regretted up until now when it has finally firmed up enough to not lift from leaky float bowls of gas etc.. Wish I would have went epoxy with a grit in it for non slip surface.

----- Gimpster -----

 

[700sks]

I went with the two part epoxy from menards. prep is so important for this , and dry time is the second most important. It states to stay off for a week? I think. the only downfall is that it is very slippery when wet. other wise it works great!

 

[WattsMasonry]

Epoxy

We do epoxy floor coverings with color flake send me your e-mail and I will send you some pics its pretty sweet stuff.

 

[ouch]

we have some epoxy on the shop floor and If I was to coat another floor some kind of texture needs to be on it. Slipping sucks. nothing worse than slipping and spilling beer on your toys...

 

[xrated]

how does the epoxy hold up?

Heard people say the menards type deals will start lifting away from hot tires rolling on it within a few years?

 

[bobognargnar]

finewoodworking article

The Annual Tools&Shops issue that is out right now, from Fine Woodworking Magazine has a good arcticle on doing an epoxy floor coating, go through the prep, application etc. hope it helps

 

[togwotee9]

I own a Inustrial Flooring Company, Painting, caulking, polished concrete ect... Been at it for 15 years. What are you looking to do? Thin mil system? which is two coats of epoxy and a top coat of urethane. Stay away from the do it your self kits. Tnemec or Sherwin Williams I & M is the way to go. I'd be happy to stear you down the right path.

 

[X-it]

I will have to remember that one.

 

[700sks]

that is why the dry time is worth the wait, a friend drove on his after a day and it started to peal up, mine hasn't yet.

 

[AZ800]

Sherwin Williams, good stuff. I don't remember the exact type, but it's a high solids epoxy industrial coating. Did my 3 stall garage, 2 coats with 6 gallons (3ea 2 gal kits). Only about $200. It's held up very well. Garage gets used alot and the only damage in a year has been from my ski carbides (just scratched, not all the way thru) and couple heavy things I dropped that took a chip out of the concrete. Floor got bathed in trans fluid for a week, the first day I was able to use it after it cured and no damage. Haven't found any solvents in my garge that will harm it.
Prep is key. You want to obliterate ALL oil spots and then do a good acid etch on the floor and rinse well.
I got a med gray color and I wouldn't reccomend that color, shows all the tire tracks, dirt, etc and it takes a pretty good scrubbin to get it real clean looking. I'd go dark brown or dark gray next time.

 

[DaveB]

Glass Shield expoxy primer with urethane top coat. 9 years old now. Has a could of good scratches from the last couple of years I quit worrying about the skags on the sled and just drive the sleds in on the floor....I kept thinking, "ya, I'll abuse the floor this year then re-do it this summer".....but it just isn't bad still. Hahaha....maybe I'll re-do it NEXT summer.

 

[6Mile]

I used rust-o-leum stuff last spring and alsoadded the clear top coat option with anti-skid misture in the clear coat. http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=16

It has held up well so far. The prep work is the key to getting good adheasion. The pst part of this stuff is that it cleans easy. Water pretty much beads up on the floor like it has a good wax job on it. The Anti Skid works well, but I added 50% more than recomended to the clear coat.

Hot tires in the summer did not affect the coating.

I am sure ther are better product out there, but I got the stuff on sale and did my 4 stall garage for less than 400.00

 

[togwotee9]

I was busy when I posted earlier so I will add to it:

Surface prep is important, we shotblast 90% on the floor we do, but for the average garage you can acid wash it. To properly acid wash the floor, cut the acid 4 to 1 with water pour it on the floor (we use watering cans) when the aid hits the floor it should burn the floor, if it doesn't there may be a topical coating, ie curing compound on the floor. Let the acid burn and work it in with a stiff brush, next pressure wash the floor, this blow the loose surface of the concrete of the floor leaving you the rough surface you are trying to achieve (ICRI CSP-3). The rougher the profile the better the paint will bite to the surface the bond to the floor. Most coatings fail because of improper surfaces prep. Just my 02. Feel free to ask questions.