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G5 riser height

I have looked all the build videos and almost all the riding videos. They are not using these low bar setups (relative to their height) what many are promoting these days.

I never said factory height is the correct height. Factory risers could be anything from low to high depending on the brand, model, year and configuration and the guy riding it.

This low bar trend is gonna go past after a while, just like those high risers (ape hangers) in the past. People have tendency to go extremes no matter the subject. But many times the answer is in the middle.

Burandt runs 1" lower than Polaris factory low

Turcotte is 2" lower than Polaris factory low

Pulsifer helped ZRP build a shorter steering post to get his low bars shorter than stock

The factory racers have said they run stock height because they have to race stock height in the stock classes. They don't want to change things.
 
That being said Keith Curtis is 6'3 and runs Mediums. 1" higher than Polaris low.

The best rmsha racer ever isn't buying into the short bar trend either
 
I think you need to be more clear on what you think low is, vs what the pro riders lower their bars to. I know and rode with a pro rider and he’s 6’3”, he uses a bar height lower then mine. What does he say? You need to have a lower CG and be in an attack stance when riding aggressive. To each their own.

Bar/riser setup is too low when you need to bend over/half squat when you ride most of the time. If you are just going steep uphill its fine. But in general thats not the case.
 
I think you need to be more clear on what you think low is, vs what the pro riders lower their bars to. I know and rode with a pro rider and he’s 6’3”, he uses a bar height lower then mine. What does he say? You need to have a lower CG and be in an attack stance when riding aggressive. To each their own.

If we talk about Ski-Doo/Lynx, for example if 6ft rider is using 3,7" (115mm) riser (or lower) with stock bar, that is very close to low bar setup.

Low bars are not a problem, if you are riding aggressively on short periods of time. But on full day out in the mountains, its gonna wear you out. I have seen this in my riding group and have tested it myself too. Too high bar aint good either as we know.

If you feel its the right option for you, go for it. Most of the riders are not very athletic, not in great shape and dont ride that agressively or arent hill climb racers. Thats why pushing these things that make riding harder is a bit annoying. Just like low engaging, hard loading clutch kits, average rider will suffer.

Top backcountry riders in the world are not using low bars at their backcountry everyday sleds. That should tell enough about the topic.
 
A great rider probably gets away with a low riser.I’m not a great rider but ride a lot and my back says if I want to keep riding use the taller riser.Everyone else may have a better health plan
 
If you feel its the right option for you, go for it. Most of the riders are not very athletic, not in great shape and dont ride that agressively or arent hill climb racers. Thats why pushing these things that make riding harder is a bit annoying. Just like low engaging, hard loading clutch kits, average rider will suffer.
Humm, Very interesting generic comments. I actually like my lower expert riser, and my lower engagement clutching, along with my stiffer shock valving. Some guys like riding stock sleds. I like making improvements, I don’t need, or want a sled engaging at over 4000rpm, I am not a meadow or an open bowl rider, FYI the lower engagement actually made my sled easier to ride, and lowered my belt temps, who knew?
 
Humm, Very interesting generic comments. I actually like my lower expert riser, and my lower engagement clutching, along with my stiffer shock valving. Some guys like riding stock sleds. I like making improvements, I don’t need, or want a sled engaging at over 4000rpm, I am not a meadow or an open bowl rider, FYI the lower engagement actually made my sled easier to ride, and lowered my belt temps, who knew?

Have to disagree (again) about the low engagment. Engine momentum stabilizes the sled just like the track spinning does. When going low (track) speeds, if the engine is also spinning slowly you have to do all the balancing yourself. Going for the low engagment, hard pushing clutching, will make riding more difficult for average rider. I have seen this so many times. And with the turbo, theres no "lag" on Turbo R as we know it, but its just slow from the lower rpm´s. I think thats the main reason Doo has higher engagment as stock, you wont notice this slow response from lower rpm´s.

Here in Europe we have sea level clutching as stock, engagment is around 3700. So many riders here did switch back from turbo to non turbos because of slow response. Stock clutching is just horrible and gives wrong impression about the turbo. I have deleveloped 2 different adjustable weight for Turbo R for sea level. Another one is made to tackle this slow response, it has engagment over 4000 but its buttery smooth engaging, revvy character, not hard to ride at all.
 
Have to disagree (again) about the low engagment. Engine momentum stabilizes the sled just like the track spinning does. When going low (track) speeds, if the engine is also spinning slowly you have to do all the balancing yourself. Going for the low engagment, hard pushing clutching, will make riding more difficult for average rider. I have seen this so many times. And with the turbo, theres no "lag" on Turbo R as we know it, but its just slow from the lower rpm´s. I think thats the main reason Doo has higher engagment as stock, you wont notice this slow response from lower rpm´s.

Here in Europe we have sea level clutching as stock, engagment is around 3700. So many riders here did switch back from turbo to non turbos because of slow response. Stock clutching is just horrible and gives wrong impression about the turbo. I have deleveloped 2 different adjustable weight for Turbo R for sea level. Another one is made to tackle this slow response, it has engagment over 4000 but its buttery smooth engaging, revvy character, not hard to ride at all.
I'm not sure you meant too but this entire post reinforces so many stereotypes. 😂😂😂
 
Have to disagree (again) about the low engagment. Engine momentum stabilizes the sled just like the track spinning does. When going low (track) speeds, if the engine is also spinning slowly you have to do all the balancing yourself. Going for the low engagment, hard pushing clutching, will make riding more difficult for average rider. I have seen this so many times. And with the turbo, theres no "lag" on Turbo R as we know it, but its just slow from the lower rpm´s. I think thats the main reason Doo has higher engagment as stock, you wont notice this slow response from lower rpm´s.

Here in Europe we have sea level clutching as stock, engagment is around 3700. So many riders here did switch back from turbo to non turbos because of slow response. Stock clutching is just horrible and gives wrong impression about the turbo. I have deleveloped 2 different adjustable weight for Turbo R for sea level. Another one is made to tackle this slow response, it has engagment over 4000 but its buttery smooth engaging, revvy character, not hard to ride at all.
I have to agree with caper11, the stock 170 lbs engagement, even the 150 lbs of the '23's, was annoying and trenches. Higher engagement is also harder in the belt, chain, and spockets. Having it rev so high just to engage sucks in tight conditions. Control, being able to walk out of a hole, or around and obstacle, cooler belts, etc. are just several of the benefits. I would agree that the stock sea level clutching is terrible. Needs more pin weight and the 350 finish with the black spring in back. The tracks have so much load/grip today that the blue/blue spring is useless. Unless you like digging trenches the high engagement gets old quick.
 
Lol, humm I lowered the engagement to about 3600, did other changes with Ibackshift clutching parts and my sled is more responsive then my brothers stock clutched sled at over 4000rpm. Even at +15c my belt temps were close to engine temp.
Not everyone likes the handling of the lynx in North America either, its a personal preference its good to have choices, and the aftermarket helps the manufacturer push forward.
This is not a clutching thread, its about riser height, having the correct riser height and bar sweep, rake etc, makes for a much more controlled and comfortable ride.
 
biggest annoyance on stock clutching is the high engagement and buzzy feel. gimme an iBackshift clutch kit every time.
that and drop two teeth on the top sprocket.
for the riser height I have the doo adjustable version but have it permanently locked in the lowest position and gets installed on each new sled. not sure what actual height that is though.
 
biggest annoyance on stock clutching is the high engagement and buzzy feel. gimme an iBackshift clutch kit every time.
that and drop two teeth on the top sprocket.
for the riser height I have the doo adjustable version but have it permanently locked in the lowest position and gets installed on each new sled. not sure what actual height that is though.
I have had the Doo adjustable riser on my last 3 sleds. Love it.
 
I'm 5-11, I prefer the low (3") riser mainly for steer tree riding, and being able to over the bars with the sled over on its side without the bar being up in my armpits. You be amazed how much of a difference that small change makes when the sled is leaned over. Meadow mashing isn't as nice of a neutral position, so it is a trade off.... But I do have long arms also. So it's never a one size fits all.
 
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