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FYI: Turbo and Mod RAW-Chassis?? Here is your answer to cooling concerns!

mountainhorse

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FYI:

After a bit of brainstorming with Curt at FTX... HOT OFF THE PRESS!

FasTrax Motorsports has a new, add on cooler for the RMK RAW chassis (RMK's from 2007 thru 2009).

This will be just the ticket for your cooling needs on those Big Bore 840/860's and Turbo sleds... or if you run a lot in spring conditions and are concerned with overheating.

Especially helpful in light of the fact that the Dragons have the front-tunnel heat exchanger deleted..

This cooler will mount between the STOCK tunnel u-coolers in the Raw chassis.

The one shown is 16" and can be installed with the track and suspension mounted in the sled... piece of cake.

They can be ordered in any length up to the full length of the stock cooler.

Prices to be announced at the show.

See em at the Puyallup Washington State Snowmobile Association Expo and Swapmeet.

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rear of the tunnel and the front bulkhead cooler is where most of you cooling is, this should help out ALOT!

eirk, how much room is there between the top of the tunnel and the crossover tube? It looks like theres plenty of room for some clamps. How are the heat shrink clamps working? 1 time use??
 
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Matty,

It's pretty tight in there.... the Heat shrink clamps are actually superior for clamping... they handle expansion and contraction of the hose much better than a worm drive clamp!
 
how much for a roll of that heat shrink clamp tape

Thats the first time I seen that stuff and I now I need it cant live without it LOL


Nice cooler
 
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=927&location_id=546

Made of a heat-sensitive material, Gates PowerGrip™ SB clamp solves coolant leakage problems in both silicone and standard rubber wall hoses, even on out-of-round fittings.

Gates thermoplastic clamp maintains a dynamic tension so that it never needs retightening. Whenever the engine reaches operating temperture, the shrink forces of PowerGrip SB readjust to a consistent clamping force. In addition, its clamping force increases as the temperature drops below 40 degrees F, thereby tightening the connection.

Cold leaks, which normally occur when the temperature drops below 40 degrees F, are eliminated.

Installation using a heat gun is fast and easy, including hard-to-reach places. Heat-gun attachments permit installation in confining areas that would be extremely difficult to reach using a screwdriver on conventional worm-drive screw clamps.

The PowerGrip SB hose clamp features a smooth surface that won't rust, corrode, or result in cut fingers during installation. PowerGrip SB hose clamps are completely resistant to all automotive fluids including oil, antifreeze and even brake fluid.

Wider than conventional clamps, PowerGrip SB hose clamps can be positioned over the raised bead on the end of the fitting nipple - even cast metal.

PowerGrip SB clamps are readily removed with Gates' specially-designed clamp removal tool. The clamps also can be removed using a soldering iron to melt through the thermoplastic material.

Sizes are available for 1/4 through 3-1/8 inch I.D. hose.

retail http://www.jegs.com/p/Gates/943359/10002/-1
 
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The Gates heat shrink hose clamps are not to be AT ALL confused with electrical heat shrink tubing!!

These are very thick and exert a lot of pressure on the hose, clamping it permanently in place... I know it's hard to wrap your thoughts aound not having a worm drive clamp to crank the pizz out of.. this stuff plain works and is used in lots of industrial applications.

Fabcraft has been using them for a few years now on all of thier tunnel builds as well as other quality installers like VanAmburg, CR Racing, FasTrax and others.

You can get them at your local Napa store, though most counter staff will not know what you are talking about...

I order mine from www.mcmaster.com

In the "Find Products" box on the left side....Enter in "heat shrink clamp" and it will take you to the page with descriptions.


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My buddy just restored a car and those are all he used for clamps wherever he could. No problems what-so ever. That stuff is sweet. Ideal for older sleds, mine for example, where there is a coolant line right under the motor going to the front tunnel cooler and seem to always loosen up.
 
U-coolers are a long standing time proven product. Its well proven that if you add cooling volume and surface area in the right places (ie bulkhead or tail), it will reduce coolant temps.
We are building these up to 36" long for 299.99 including clamps,hoses and hose protector.

curt
 
Plus this sukker will tie right into the stock system without and major mods and just two simple cuts and some rivets.

Besides turbo setups these will be handy for the early and late season marginal snow conditions when you are worried about overheating..

FTX has the some of the best fabrication and engine quality-mods that I've seen and the customer service is the real kicker... top notch...good people for sure.

This puts more cooler right where it can do the most in the smallest area.
 
i wonder what the heat rating is on those clamps.....i.e. what is the hottest temp they can withstand?
 
how hard are those clamps to remove?

Trying to decide if I want to use them in areas that will see removal and installation of lines frequently...
 
thats what I figured. Though, if things were actually figured out prior to plumbing cooling it wouldn't be that big of a deal...
 
Damn you MH.. you make my shopping list longer again.. ;)..

thanks for bringing this up again.. great idea..


lets hear some info from people who used them this last season...
 
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