Fusion 900 Clutch weights rub picture.

[ttreewalkerr]

Well i am doing some work to my sled, ran good, just hit that wall at 90mph. but would go 99.. Stock gears, dropping some teeth..

Anyway, while inspecting my clutch i noticed these wear marks of the weights. Can i just take my dremmel and clean it up, maybe dig a little ?

And i see a signature next to the ebossed "X",, did the previous owner have it balanced ?

 

[06 RMK 900]

Send your clutch to indy Dan and let him go through it. Clutches on these sleds should be balanced every year. He will replace stuff that needs to be.

 

[ttreewalkerr]

Send your clutch to indy Dan and let him go through it. Clutches on these sleds should be balanced every year. He will replace stuff that needs to be.

I know i can do that,, but i can't do that. Im outta cash... I have 800 bucks in parts ready to install,, and i am tapped.. I can live w/ out getting it balanced for now,, installing my compfusio mounts, billet crossmember, get 05 pistons out, changing my gears, etc...

But balance clutch,, not at this point..


So anyone know what is going on w/ my clutch,, it's obviously the weights rubbing on the inside radius of the casting,, everything is moving smooth.. Almost feels like the weights now have a clear path to swing.. I looked at wear marks and looks like it was fully closing.

Is this common,, is this what i have read about on 900 clutches needing to be machined ? How about dremmeled..

 

[mountainhorse]

How many miles on the weights?

Have you ever replaced the weight bushings?

Take some pics of the Weights and pins and post them up. (weights viewed from the side, removed from the clutch)

 

[ttreewalkerr]

How many miles on the weights?

Have you ever replaced the weight bushings?

Take some pics of the Weights and pins and post them up. (weights viewed from the side, removed from the clutch)

2000 miles on sled, i bought it w/ 1,000... I am assuming original.. Not sure about that initials on the cover,,.. So probley original..
Everything rolls nice...

It is 9pm here,, im kinda done for night,, will take a weight off aqnd take pics tomorrow..

Are you tghinking the bushing @ weight pivot is worn and allowing it to move to that side and groove like that ?

 

[Goinboardin]

I put 900 miles on my last set of weight bushings, and that was about 150 miles more than I should have (not a nine though). I would suspect there isn't much weight bushing left. Your rollers have wear marks on them that look like the weight wasn't sitting square on them.

Where the weight pins go through the moveable sheave, is there missing aluminum there too?

 

[ttreewalkerr]

How many miles on the weights?

Have you ever replaced the weight bushings?

Take some pics of the Weights and pins and post them up. (weights viewed from the side, removed from the clutch)

Here is weights pics,, look smooth, feel smooth.

 

[ttreewalkerr]

How many miles on the weights?

Have you ever replaced the weight bushings?

Take some pics of the Weights and pins and post them up. (weights viewed from the side, removed from the clutch)

Better pics of weights,, this side i am showing is the side of the weight which is rubbing on that radius...

Looks like a ridge is formed on the clutch casting, .25mm..

 

[mountainhorse]

Are you tghinking the bushing @ weight pivot is worn and allowing it to move to that side and groove like that ?

Bingo!!

Looks ovalized to me... AND your wear marks look new.
It hasn't been rubbing for long.

My take... that $800 pile of parts you have will be worthless if the Primary Clutch, the heartbeat of your sled, is not in perfect running order.

If you ran the 115 belt without having the clutch shimmed and indexed... it is not the right setting by a 90% chance.

IMO... getting the clutch line working perfectly is some of the best money you can spend!!

I like the heavy duty bushings from these guys (kit with driver)... best in the business IMO... and they are only $3 more than the competition for the regular duralon replacement bushings.
Scroll down, TSK-675

http://www.thunderproducts.com/Polaris clutch.htm




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[ttreewalkerr]

Bingo!!

Looks ovalized to me... AND your wear marks look new.
It hasn't been rubbing for long.

My take... that $800 pile of parts you have will be worthless if the Primary Clutch, the heartbeat of your sled, is not in perfect running order.

If you ran the 115 belt without having the clutch shimmed and indexed... it is not the right setting by a 90% chance.

IMO... getting the clutch line working perfectly is some of the best money you can spend!!

I like the heavy duty bushings from these guys (kit with driver)... best in the business IMO... and they are only $3 more than the competition for the regular duralon replacement bushings.
Scroll down, TSK-675

http://www.thunderproducts.com/Polaris clutch.htm




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So your saying i only need new weight bushings, and get that tool to pound out the bushing in weight. ???

And in the clutch tower, which holds the pin the weight pivots on,, notice that ridge that is slightly proud of the diameter the pin goes in.. Is it suppose to be proud like that ? or is that raw aluminum and the weight worn and made that ridge from the bushing in the weight being recessed, or should i say worn on the right side ???

 

[roni87]

clutch

New bushings and what we have done is put some shims on atleast the one side of the weight. Don't know if polaris makes shims for this (I used arctic cat ones) and placed them on the same side as it is rubbing the clutch. This will keep things shifting smooth.

 

[06 RMK 900]

New bushings and what we have done is put some shims on atleast the one side of the weight. Don't know if polaris makes shims for this (I used arctic cat ones) and placed them on the same side as it is rubbing the clutch. This will keep things shifting smooth.

I would think if you do this you want to add it to everyone to keep it balanced. These sleds like the balanced clutches if not you risk a snapped crank.

 

[ttreewalkerr]

Bingo!!

Looks ovalized to me... AND your wear marks look new.
It hasn't been rubbing for long.

My take... that $800 pile of parts you have will be worthless if the Primary Clutch, the heartbeat of your sled, is not in perfect running order.

If you ran the 115 belt without having the clutch shimmed and indexed... it is not the right setting by a 90% chance.

IMO... getting the clutch line working perfectly is some of the best money you can spend!!

I like the heavy duty bushings from these guys (kit with driver)... best in the business IMO... and they are only $3 more than the competition for the regular duralon replacement bushings.
Scroll down, TSK-675

http://www.thunderproducts.com/Polaris clutch.htm




.

ok, Mountain,, been thinking here,, i see what you mean by oval.. The bushing inside the weight, on the left side it maybe round and tight, but the "thrust side/right side" is oval, this allows the weight to in a way tilt on that pin towards the right,, which puts the weight into the clutch tower corner creating that groove.

 

[mountainhorse]

Looks like the weight left that ridge behind and wore the area around the bushing.

Read the p-85 clutch thread by ron....

You will want to use the comet weight shims to fix that problem of side clearance.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=230564

 

[Goinboardin]

Where do you buy clutch weight shims? Do most dealers sell them?

I see they are part # 204203 @ Western Power Sports, but they just sell to dealers.

 

[CompFusion]

Wear on the Fusion spider is due to the 10-74 cams. It doesnt occur on the RMK because of the smaller cams. One solution from polaris was to use the 11 series cams. These had a different profile and smaller tips to not touch the spider. They are a better match for the 900 power curve anyway.

 

[Goinboardin]

In regards to the last post:
I have 10-60's on my 800 and my clutch has identical wear marks on it. Just saying, its not the weights, the problem seems to be letting the bushing wear out and not doing anything about it.

 

[mountainhorse]

Yep... the bushings go on the weights in about 1200 miles for the heavier weights.

The replacement bushings I listed above do last longer.

Like Colin said.. the 10-74's are tight to start with... they are even less tollerant of bushing wear... fix the side clearance and the bushings and they should not rub... but if you leave it that way without fixing the side clearance issue... you will have the same problems.

The 11 series weights are great for the 900's torque curve like he said.








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[skibreeze]

It's not just the bushing wear, it's the weight that also wears into the clutch creating the ridge at the pivot point of the weight. Replacing the bushing is a must, and I also smooth out the ridges and use the artic cat shims. This gets the weight back to the center of the pocket. This is something that I have seen on every one of my Poos after 1000 miles.

 

[ttreewalkerr]

I replaced the bushings,, then hand rotated and pushed to side the weights w/ spider move,, i see they won't rub now..
But yes their close... So probley end of season they will rub... It's all together now, (Clutch), and new top end,, compfusion mounts, all new 06 rear mounts... Fired it up last night,, 2 pulls,, so will heat cycle many times,,, just to smell that 2 stroke.....

now my rear brake light doenst function,,, it's on,,, can't tell yet if its stuck on running light ot brake light. Already jumped the bar switch,, it's not that... I read that it's probley my wires on LH side by voltage regulater,, probley came apart when i had to press fit this damn tank in place.
Doesnt seem like the rear wires connenction at rear of seat,, too that apart and pin poked the leads,, no difference when running while wiggleing..
So off tank comes after work today.