I know this topic has been pounded in the ground and I have read most of the threads on furnaces, so just a couple questions for those with furnaces. I have an Interstate four place that I'm getting ready to install a furnace in. I have'nt purchased anything yet as I am still trying to figure out the best configuration. Easiest install is up high on the right just after the V but I can install anywhere and fabricate anything I need. So the questions are; is ducting absolutely recomended to get the heat down low and is mounting the furnace low for the intake air really that important? I've heard both ways but am looking for opinions from people with experience. Thanks in advance.
Furnace Ducting & Location
- Thread starter mdavies
- Start date
How high or low you place your RV furnace will not effect the performance of the furnace itself. Your air intake and exhaust works the same if they are 5ft off the ground or 20ft. Most put the furnace up near the ceiling because its out of the way and provides more clearence, plus your not bumping into it all the time. I have mine placed halfway between the man door and the end of the V nose on the sidewalk side. This way I still have room for cabinets up in the V. I built a sheet metal shelf and attached to the wall. I also have 2 straps coming down from the ceiling to help support the weight.
You need to run ducting from an RV furnace. If you dont then they will heat up and shut down due to over heating. You can use sheet metal ducting or plumbing pipe. You dont have to run ducting to the floor if you do not want to. Depends on what size of furnace you are running. I have a 40,000 BTU unit in my trailer and it will run you out of there if the thermostat is turned all the way up. In my case I have more furnace then the trailer really needs.
I ran ducting all the way to the back of the trailer and put in 4 registers. Then going forward I just purchase the round adjustable angle duct and put that on the front side of the furnace. I can angle that one any which way for air flow. All of my ducting was done by my neighbor that does HVAC. Labor and parts were free.......
You need to run ducting from an RV furnace. If you dont then they will heat up and shut down due to over heating. You can use sheet metal ducting or plumbing pipe. You dont have to run ducting to the floor if you do not want to. Depends on what size of furnace you are running. I have a 40,000 BTU unit in my trailer and it will run you out of there if the thermostat is turned all the way up. In my case I have more furnace then the trailer really needs.
I ran ducting all the way to the back of the trailer and put in 4 registers. Then going forward I just purchase the round adjustable angle duct and put that on the front side of the furnace. I can angle that one any which way for air flow. All of my ducting was done by my neighbor that does HVAC. Labor and parts were free.......
mine is on the floor with no ducting, the heat rises, so it does not overheat the furnace, also no reason to run it to the floor, it's already there. Mine is vented through the floor so there are no holes in the wall. Four or Five years now with no problems. I have it up in the v, right where no skis ever wander.
Interesting idea the heater in the floor.
Would you happen to have any pictures of this to share with us?
Thanks
I also have a vent that blows toward the rear of the trailer which can't be seen, the screen on top has blows in to the middle of the the trailer, works great to set wet gloves, boots on to dry them out quick, have even kept the hot chocolate hot while the kids are tubing.
Bottom pic is vent spaced down to same level as bottom of trailer using scrap 2x6's, located directly under heater. Heater has never failed to heat at any elevation or road speed.
This is an Atwood heater, turned down instead of out. The critical element is that you keep the fan turning on the same axis, ie, you can rotate the vent down, but don't lay the fan on it's side. It will still run, but the cage will rotate on the one bearing it rests on rather than the two it's meant to spin on. Depending on the heater, you may have to rotate some sensors 90 degrees if they require level operation.
The hole in the floor is roughly the size of a small chalk eraser, I cut it out with a jigsaw and screwed the piece to a post in my shop in case I want to pop it back in for heater removal. It allows the square air plenum to slide out the bottom, the plenum has a pipe in it, allowing fresh air in and exhaust out.
Been looking into a heater also. Thanks for the ideas. The pics look great.
hey great idea putting it through the floor. Thanks for explaining how to mount vertically rather than horizontal. Thanks to everyone for the replies. Will post pics when I get mine done.
I have mine mounted under the trailer so it takes up no space inside. Works good, just have a thermostat inside and vents through the floor. Just used a motorhome furnace.
Have any pictures you could share with us on your installation?
Pics of my heater... I have 2 6 volt golf cart batteries located under the trailer.
it's half a truck box
LM,
thats a nice setup. I didn't want to have the ducting running the length of the trailer, as my roof isnt super tall, and I'm tall enough that it would be more stuff for me to hit my head on. I ran one duct down the side, with holes in it and PVC hooks above to hold gloves, etc, and a wire shelf above for the helmets. All about air flow.
It'll dry dripping gloves in about 3 hours, so i'm pretty happy with that. I have found that if I don't open a door, the furnace will build up too much heat, and shut down. Maybe a second row to allow more air out of the box. i'll take a look at that soon.
I posted a thread here last year, if you look for it, i dont know if Chris deleted it or not, but I left it up.
PE
thats a nice setup. I didn't want to have the ducting running the length of the trailer, as my roof isnt super tall, and I'm tall enough that it would be more stuff for me to hit my head on. I ran one duct down the side, with holes in it and PVC hooks above to hold gloves, etc, and a wire shelf above for the helmets. All about air flow.
It'll dry dripping gloves in about 3 hours, so i'm pretty happy with that. I have found that if I don't open a door, the furnace will build up too much heat, and shut down. Maybe a second row to allow more air out of the box. i'll take a look at that soon.
I posted a thread here last year, if you look for it, i dont know if Chris deleted it or not, but I left it up.
PE
