fuel pump
- Thread starter TurboMatt
- Start date
You can get one for $120 from Auto Performance Engineering on the web.
Walbro F20000286 it is the same pump that is in your tank. You will need to take the old one out of the aluminum bracket.
Walbro F20000286 it is the same pump that is in your tank. You will need to take the old one out of the aluminum bracket.
T
TurboMatt
Well-known member
I posted this in another thread, but I'll repost here.I was having LOW voltage problems:
After doing a bunch of searching on here and checking voltages on the sled I came to the conclusion that the fuel pump was the culprit(I check the voltage coming out of the stator(good), checked the regulator(good), replaced the regulator just because I had a spare along(no change).
Symptoms: Everything would be find when its cold but once it warmed up to 150deg the dc voltage in the system would drop to 8-9vdc. The check engine light would flicker on and off and I would also get a battery symbol on my dash. Also my wideband o2 gauge was showing low voltage. The sled would run, idle and drive but the check engine light wouldn't go away no matter what the rpm was at.
So on a tip that I read in a post in one of the threads I added some oil to my tank. The problem litterally went away within 15 seconds of dumping some oil in. And I have witnesses. Now one thing to consider: I just starting running 100LL av gas for probably 250miles prior to this happening & I wasn't doing any premix up till this point. I read on another thread the pump laboring was drawing down the whole system. I truly think thats what was happening. My next step to diagnos was going to be to run the pump off a 12v battery to see if the sled ran normal, but I never got to that because the oil in the tank fixed it first.
I guess I should have been listening to people all along when they told me to mix 1oz of premix for every gallon!!! It'll make my engine run longer and keep my fuel pump going.
T
TurboMatt
Well-known member
While the pump did work fine for the 5 days after adding the premix, I want to replace it anyways. I run a turbo on the sled and fuel delivery is not something that I want to leave to chance. The pump laboring couldn't have been good for it, who knows how long it will last, I don't wanna find out. Plus I'll just keep the old one for a spare. Spare parts are a good thing when you're running a turbo and you have to drive 1100 miles west to ride it.haha.
wonder if fuel with 10% + ethanol in it,is hard for the pumps?mine had the excact same symptoms as yours,when i had to use ethanol fuel one time this winter.disappered when i put oil in tank and non ethanol fuel.
If you are having fuel issues with less than 1/4 tank, it's the smart valves not the pump. If the screen on the smart valve(the one on the high side of the tank) can't stay closed by holding fuel, it will suck air and stop the fuel flow to the pump. There have been issues with the valves. You can order the valves separate from the pump assembly from Polaris(2520873) or APE. You can also pull the pump assembly and inspect the smart valves for foreign debris.
Oil in the fuel is more than likely helping the screen problem.
The problem is more prevalent on Turbo sleds.
Go to www.apeusa.com and in the side bar open multi point pickups and read the info. It explains how the valves work.
Oil in the fuel is more than likely helping the screen problem.
The problem is more prevalent on Turbo sleds.
Go to www.apeusa.com and in the side bar open multi point pickups and read the info. It explains how the valves work.
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Cool Lead!! THANKS!
They didn't have those last year.
The pumps are pretty easy to take out of the PFA (Pump Flange Assembly)
Be carefull in pulling off the top hose connection and the electrical connector... Gently spread open the aluminum mounting "cradle", remove the two screws and retainer plate and it will slide right out.
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/fppumps.html
Also...Read this page... see the pix... you can break off the outlet VERY easily on this pump putting it into the PFA.
I did... ONCE!
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/intank_install_tips.html
Make sure that you have Good replacement oetiker clamps or other fuel injection clamps on this pressure (outlet) hose on the pump... You will ruin the old clamp getting it off.
OETIKER CLAMP (GOOD)...Need proper crimp plyers
INJECTION HOSE CLAMP (GOOD)
WORM DRIVE CLAMP (BAD)
I did... ONCE!
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/intank_install_tips.html
Make sure that you have Good replacement oetiker clamps or other fuel injection clamps on this pressure (outlet) hose on the pump... You will ruin the old clamp getting it off.
OETIKER CLAMP (GOOD)...Need proper crimp plyers
INJECTION HOSE CLAMP (GOOD)
WORM DRIVE CLAMP (BAD)
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