Fox re-valve on a 08 M8

[jnj55024]

I want to have the re-valve done to my 08 M8 too. I was getting bucked pretty hard last year on the trails and have been reading that the re-valve will fix this issue.

On my skid I have a front and rear shock(no kidding). Front is a coil over Fox non-adjustable, rear is Fox Float adjustable.

Question is, do I send both shocks in for re-valve or just the rear float shock?

And if I have www.gasshockrepair.com re-valve the shocks will Holz sell just the dual spring stack for the front one?

I appreciate your help.

 

[AaronBND]

Yes you do, and yes they will! Mine are at Andy's right now getting revalved and my spring-stack is on it's way from Holz for $63.00.

Aaron

 

[summitbound]

Shock Re-Valve

Why don't you just send both your rear shock's to Matt at

http://www.holzracingproducts.com/index.php/sled/

http://www.holzracingproducts.com/index.php/sled/service/

He will set them up for your weight and riding style,and the shipping will be cheaper

 

[jnj55024]

Thanks for the input.

I am waiting for a response from Andy at GSR to tell me what it costs for the re-valve.

It may end up being more or even money by the time I ship the shocks to and from Idaho and the springs from WA.

I have another question on the front skid shock. Do I need to compress it prior to removing the bolts? Since it is gas charged I assume it will expand when I take the bolt out. I let the air out of the rear float shock and had no trouble.

Is there a tool I need to compress it? If I need to compress it?

In case you haven't guessed, I am a Noob on shocks. I have always had trail sleds that worked fine and never needed to work on the shocks.

 

[jnj55024]

Thanks for the input.

I talked to Andy at GSR. Sounds like it is about $45 per shock for the re-valve plus $60 for the dual spring stack. He suggested trying just the rear shock re-valved and add the dual spring stack on the front one with stock valving. Done for around $105 plus shipping.

Holz wants $199 for both shocks and spring stack.

i am also thinking about doing the Geo mod to my rear skid mounts to help the geometry work a little better.

Your thoughts or comments on this mod are welcomed too.

To Quote Geo:
There are a couple of pics. The top mount center location is 11.4 mm from front edge and same distance from bottom of bend on the mount.
The new stop location on rails is 7.9 mm from top of rail and same from top inside edge of original hole.
It looks very much like a Holz skid 'cause the geometry is the same.
What this does is put the shock linkage into the stiffer part early and allows you to use much less pressure to get the correct ride hieght. The lower pressure allows you to use all the travel but the exponential spring rate of the air never bottoms (yet, lol).
Very nice transfer and as plush a ride as the valveing allows.
To set the ride hieght for your wieght, sit on the sled and measure from the floor to the rail at the rear arm mount. It has to be 3.5 inches (again the same as a Holz is set up. On mine the static hieght (unladen) is 19.5 in. and me sitting on sled is 16 in. I have found that in the field the pressure doesnt change much from the shop. I think because of oil temp., so just set it and forget it.
I run 85 psi in powder and 90 on the harder snow for my 250lbs with gear. If you dont set-up for this sag it will ride rough and not transfer well because the air spring wont let it use the full travel.
Front shocks at 55 psi and middle preload for the steering effort you want.
Hope you get the idea from the pics. Works very well for me.
Magic marker up the area where the holes will go. Set-up a scriber to the dimentions listed. Drag across the area along the edges mentioned.
Where the lines intersect, that is the centre of the hole. Centre punch, pilot drill, final drill, then chamfer or deburr.
Take your time on the pilot hole to keep alignment in the chassis equal on both sides.
You`ll find the rear arm doesn`t quite touch the stop (about 40 thou.). I did this to allow the limiter straps to stretch completely and get a bit more front travel. A couple of rides and it`s good. Middle shock still doesn`t top out.
You will notice at stops the rear sags like the M7`s did if you park on a bump. No worries just ride and it`ll be OK

 

[snostrm]

Just send them to Holz and you will be very HAPPY with the results. Mark has been valving shocks for over 20 yrs and really has a great setup for the M8. Good luck