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FOR THOSE THAT MAY WANT TO POWDERCOAT THE ENTIRE PRO CHASSIS

srosscojw said:
X2, My local P Coaters say they can cure most of their powders at lower temps just takes longer. I had min done and it came out perfect.
Click to expand...

The lower temp is definitely the reason for your success... Some shops are excellent and have great control over the temps in the oven... others... not so much... be careful like you did and most will be happy with the results.. support the assy VERY well when doing the pow coat to distribute load and minimize the possibility of problems... and LOW TEMPS ONLY.

I see that you powdercoated the Bulkhead and tunnel separately.

The issue is more with the components moving on the adhesive.

There is no adhesive used in the tunnel itself... as long as the bulkhead was hung properly in the oven during baking... there would be much less stress on a joint with adhesive that was softened.

As I mentioned above... the low temp powders are a much better choice...longer "soak" times IMO should be kept to a minimum.

Nice work!!

powcoatedpro.jpg
 
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ICR...

your work is very nice...

One thing to consider....

Your bracket for the seat mount... the forward mounting point on the tank should have the same "break away" feature as the stock seat.

The fuel tank is not designed for a hard hit on the seat attached permanently to the brass threaded inserts in the tank... on a hard crash, without the breakaway, you could rip the top of the tank off and cause a major fuel spill... or worse... a fire... you could have gas spilling on your pants and not know it till it is too late.

Better safe than sorry.

I gave the same advice to SPG on their first seat design for the IQ/PRO... they changed it to the stock break-away hook setup... if the seat/frame takes a big hit it will come unhooked from the tank and not rip the tank open.

IQRseatbracket.jpg


iqrseat.jpg
 
I guarantee I won't be on the sled if it ever takes a hard enough hit to break the gas tank, so no worries. And no, I did not separate the bulkhead and tunnel to coat them.
 
One more issue with powdercoating alloy is normally you have to preheat the material to a higher temp than normal to leach out oils and impurities then its cooled and reheated for the coating process. This could cause problems with the glue.
 
Anyone Powdercoat Their Pro Tunnel????

Im building a Pro that was a bit smashed up so I have it down to the bare tunnel right now and am debating getting it powdercoated... has anyone done it and recommends it? or doesn't?

It seems like one of the main complaints about the pro is that so much snow sticks to the tunnel and it seems like if its powdercoated not nearly as much will stick. I guess this is just my thinking but just looking for some advice on it from others.

Thanks in advance,
Nate
 
i think most people are just wraping the tunnel rather than powder coat.i personelly haven't had that much off a problem with snow build up other than on top of the tunnel.good luck.
 
Paint it ... Use U-Tech or similar paint...Body shop can do it for cheap.

Some have powdercoated with their own success... but the risk is not worth it IMO.

.
 
rmk8hundo said:
Im building a Pro that was a bit smashed up so I have it down to the bare tunnel right now and am debating getting it powdercoated... has anyone done it and recommends it? or doesn't?

It seems like one of the main complaints about the pro is that so much snow sticks to the tunnel and it seems like if its powdercoated not nearly as much will stick. I guess this is just my thinking but just looking for some advice on it from others.

Thanks in advance,
Nate
Click to expand...

Go buy the color of vinyl of your choice at the local sign shop and wrap it if you want it one solid color or order a pre-made wrap by several different companies if you want graphics. I did mine in straight white last year. Sheds snow great and looks good too. I did a low temp (340 degrees) powdercoat on several small parts including my rails. I painted the inside of the tunnel.

Of the three (paint, vinyl, powdercoat) IMO the vinyl sheds snow the best.
 
mountainhorse said:
Paint it ... Use U-Tech or similar paint...Body shop can do it for cheap.

Some have powdercoated with their own success... but the risk is not worth it IMO.

.
Click to expand...

cateye5312 said:
Go buy the color of vinyl of your choice at the local sign shop and wrap it if you want it one solid color or order a pre-made wrap by several different companies if you want graphics. I did mine in straight white last year. Sheds snow great and looks good too. I did a low temp (340 degrees) powdercoat on several small parts including my rails. I painted the inside of the tunnel.

Of the three (paint, vinyl, powdercoat) IMO the vinyl sheds snow the best.
Click to expand...

mtncat1 said:
i think most people are just wraping the tunnel rather than powder coat.i personelly haven't had that much off a problem with snow build up other than on top of the tunnel.good luck.
Click to expand...

Thanks Guys!!!!
 
Powder coating Pro parts

Hey Guys,

So I have my Pro all the way tore down and after looking at Session's sled I think I want to powder coat the bulkhead and some pieces of the over structure.

I have heard some say that you should not do this because of the glued parts releasing but has anyone actually tried this and either had problems or not had problems??

Any info I can get would be great!!

Thanks,
DW
 
I just did my running boards with por-15, and a roller. Worked very good. Not sure if I need to do a clear coat with it, but looks like it was sprayed on almost.
 
max temp rated on the glue is 300* and most all powdering gets done closer to 400.

most likely wont have it all come totally apart. BUT.... Personally wouldnt recommend it. paint is the ticket for temp sensetive parts.
 
I've said it before and I'm saying it again.

Even if the sled was not glued; at the tempature they bake (even the low temp) powders, the heat cycle has the potential to remove the temper of the heat treated / tempered aluminum alloys. Granted the tunnel and coolers are not heat treated alloys, but the spindles, rails, and running boards are, and very likely the bulkhead castings as well.

Since aluminum gains 1/3 to 1/2 it's strength from this tempering, to do anything to potentially weaken it is asking for trouble. Do so at your own risk, knowing you have voided the warranty, should you have any issues. The choice is yours.
 
Powdercoating

Is it okay to get the spindles and boards powedercoated? or will there be an issue? I don’t see much of an issue with the spindles, but I am thinking with the bonded boards there might be issues with the glue.

thanks for info
 
The yearly question, use the search engine to see the zillion questions/opinions on powder coating.

JMO powder coating can be done if done at low temperature baking.
I painted my spindles and they held up extremely well last season. Running boards give it a shot, but have PC do it at low bake.

Let the opinions fly.
 
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