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? for the guys with no shims behind their DD secondarys

Hey, was just using the floating technique to check on my secondary allignment tonight, and determined that i need to pull my one and only .060 shim out. Does one immediately notice IF you need to machine the back of the secondary hub? Or is it a full shift situation? As far as i can see, with the shim removed im not contacting the DD housing, and ran it through a couple shift outs with the track in the air, and doesnt appear to be a problem... Just want to make sure im looking at and for the right issue, should there be one. Thanks guys
Brian
 
Noone seems to hold any faith in the alignment tool for these sleds for some reason. Does yours rub the non movable part of the hub, that the movable sheave moves on? Just curious if it rubs and is noticable when you just move it by hand, or if its at full shift, or what the deal is
Thanks
 
Check your motor mounts first friend before you pulla 60 thou shim out!! Idid the same thing, went for a ride checked again added 150thou worth of shims, went for a ride before noticing that the can side mount was torn. It has a heat shield over it so you cant see it from the outside. Just a suggestion........
 
Not sure like I said ipulled some shims out, 2-30 thou shims at first and had no problem. Watch for the torx screws in the back Id say they would contact first. If you lose those the secondary unwinds and youve got a tranny with no gears. Keepyer track in the air trick going then pull yer secondary off and check for shiny metal marking. This will tell ya if yer coming in contact or not.
 
Run without shims since 2005 and not any problems. If your an 05 sled your motor mounts are a softer durometer than 06 so the torgue of the motor doesn't move it quite as much.... but even in my buddies 06, we ran without shims.
 
Mines an 09, and i used this method to align the secondary with good results. Mine looks as though no shims is the ticket, and im not seeing contact between the two, but like i say am unsure how/when it happens.
 
i have no shims in mine either. 06 m6. i remember reading in the service manual ( oops, ol' lady read it then told me! :D) that serious dd/and or clutch damage could result by leaving out the shim. i am sure of it. but like i said i dont have one and that is how i bought it.
clarence
 
Another here without shims. 06 M7. Haven't run with shims for the last two seasons. No scraping of the DD to date.
 
09 here. No shims. Only ran one ride but the belt looks good because of it, and no clearance issues.......yet:)
BB
 
I already had my secondary apart so I put it back together with no spring to test this issue. Even at full shiftout with no shims the torx screw heads are nearly 1/8" away from the dd case. This is on an 08 M8.
 
Awesome guys, as far as i understood it was the non movable hub looking part that can cause a clearance issue. Im still good with no shim, and cant make it shift enough to hit. Guess its the luck of the draw. Thanks
 
question, i just put the 10.4 conv on my 06 m7t. and want to re check alignment.if i do it by the floating method, do i pull the secondary, remove all the shims, run on a track stand, shut down, then determine how much shimming i need????if im in correct, please advise...mm
 
question, i just put the 10.4 conv on my 06 m7t. and want to re check alignment.if i do it by the floating method, do i pull the secondary, remove all the shims, run on a track stand, shut down, then determine how much shimming i need????if im in correct, please advise...mm

I'd like to know as well since I did the same thing on my '05. I just replaced my stock motor mounts with solid 440 mounts, see what that does...
 
as long as you have a method of holding the belt deflection without using the secondary bolt, ie the stock plastic early m7 deflection adjuster/shims, the firecat one, or a BDX piece your good to go. Remove the shims behind the secondary, make sure the splines are slightly lubricated to allow it to move easilly. Having good deflection is very important. With the track off the ground, i like to run it up to say half shift, then let it coast to a stop, set the brake, and take a measurement from the motor mount plate to the secondary. Do this a few times to ensure you got a good solid figure to work with. Then you just shim till you get that measurement you came up with earlier. Mine doesnt want shims, even a touch in more, but not gonna worry more then that.
 
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