Fooling the air sensor
- Thread starter Jona$
- Start date
Your local mechanic gets work when you blow it up. The previous post was good advice, leave it alone. Cheap does not usually equal more power.
The ECU is constantly comparing values for intake air temp, Manifold pressure (MAP), exhaust temp, throttle position... and setting the injection and timing based on this.... get outside of parameter... and you could cause a lean burn situation... or a Limp-home situation.
I'm one for thinking outside the box... but in this situation, I believe that you would only be messing with a good thing.
.
I'm one for thinking outside the box... but in this situation, I believe that you would only be messing with a good thing.
.
I am on board with the idea of adding a resistor into the wiring with a quick flick of a switch to richen up the mid-range when running on the trail. We actually switch to Ethanol mode for long trail rides now, but both ProRides I saw go down were 1/2 throttle on the trail on warm days.
Like he said, "Shut up".
If you don't know what you are doing, don't touch it but if you are trying to learn and improve things and actually make these motors last longer it is a good conversation.
Like he said, "Shut up".
If you don't know what you are doing, don't touch it but if you are trying to learn and improve things and actually make these motors last longer it is a good conversation.
Your mechanic was correct, but to do what he suggested is a good way to cause far worse problems
If you do it right, the only problem you are going to cause is fouling the spark plugs.
I know the early designs of the big bore e-tecs used a resistor on the sensor to add fuel. We made up a few for Racers Edge to their specs.
just wondering y u want to do that? is their hp to gain? or is it like TETH-AIR said and your just looking for a failsafe? and I half to say that we play with everything from fuel pressure.. to maps.. pipes.. heads.. the list goes on... y would playing with this be any shadier? every thing we do all the ???? we ask are just to try to improve on things if it scares u don't do it! but don't hate on someone for wanting to understand something or try it.. 
I think he might be asking this because some people have experienced that there sleds run extremely rich in warm weather conditions over here, and loosing alot of power because of it.
The same problem have been discussed on here before if im correct. I think the mapping is off on these sleds when the intake air sensor gets to certain values, this should be addressed by polaris IMO, no need for a 800 to run like a 500 fanner in warm weather.
The same problem have been discussed on here before if im correct. I think the mapping is off on these sleds when the intake air sensor gets to certain values, this should be addressed by polaris IMO, no need for a 800 to run like a 500 fanner in warm weather.
M
minus40
Well-known member
I read this and thought why not use a PCV? If the issue is warm weather riding and the factory map is too rich then have a warm weather map to use at the flick of a switch. Same with midrange issues. Or if the temp sensor on the sled runs off of 0-5 volts then wire that into the PCV and create a temp sensitive map
The ECM is pulling from multiple sensors, so by your logic simply plugging in a potentiometer and "twisting" it, not a single person knows what they are doing. He stated "lean out or rich up". That in itself is bull**** advice and you should know better.
Last edited:
