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Fish out pullcord?

M

MPS

Well-known member
My handle from my pull cord came off and the cord got sucked into the housing. Have any of you successfully fished it out? If so, how? I dont really want to deal with that mess of taking it apart. Thanks!
 
take it apart and spin it 4 times (pre load) before you put it back. Good luck:eek: this will not be your last so get good at it. just take off the housing do not remove the center bolt on the inside.
 
tie a better knot :)

i'm dreading the day I have to do that... one bolt at the bottom of the recoil housing requires removing the engine to access it :\
 
thanks punk a$$!! haha ....what kind of sled do you have? That is the case with my Escape?

thanks 76FOMOCO!
 
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your screwed:D


when you take it apart mark sure the spring comes out and goes flying:D


you will never cuss so much than when you try to put it back:D


again; your screwed:D


:beer;:beer;:beer;


beers to make the operation even better:D
 
rookies

I have to pull the engine on my sled to change the recoil. it is a modified Pro-xr and it broke this summer. I pulled the engine and changed the cord. Get it back together and realized i didn't pre-load it. Pull the engine and do it right this tme.

two weeks later, that cord broke. Time to pull the engine again but this time, I am using climbers rope.
 
thanks punk a$$!! haha ....what kind of sled do you have? That is the case with my Escape?

hahaha, I believe the edges are easier to change than the IQs. The RMK/Dragon IQs require removal of the engine to get the lower bolt loose. The newer ('07+ iirc) don't even have the hole for the bolt in the cover.
 
You better take it apart. That rope could have taken out your water/oil pump belt. And when you put it back together, you know that bolt that was a PIA to get out? leave it out! Oh yeah. Change the belt while you have it apart.
 
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If its an escape you dont have to pull the motor just remove the pipe to make it easy then pull the recoil housing. Do not remove the center nut it is not necessary, just get the rope through the little slot in the recoil drum, cut the end of the rope and burn it a little with a lighter. Then you will want to wind it about 4 or 5 times and take the rope and put it back in the drum. At this point all you do is slowly let it recoil back until the rope end is about where the hole is in the housing and take a pick or somthing similar and guide it through the hole, works good for me. I hope this helps, once you have done it a couple of times then it will only take about 15 to 20 minutes to do the whole job. Good luck let us know how you do.
 
i take black tape and make about 1 to 2 wraps around the end and then wrap the tape on to it's self and make a point so you can feed the tape into the hole and pull the rope through. and yes use 5mm climbing rope from rei and change the water pump belt why your in there! this is about a :beer;:beer;:beer;:beer;job.
 
Chad Chad Chad......... ;) The Edges aren't that bad.......... just grab some beers and get to it! ;)

Does this mean you are going to ride this year? :D

FYI, might think about just replacing the spring while you are in there to. If ya do, don't buy the WPS one.... went that route and it broke first ride out.......
 
Chad Chad Chad......... ;) The Edges aren't that bad.......... just grab some beers and get to it! ;)

Does this mean you are going to ride this year? :D

FYI, might think about just replacing the spring while you are in there to. If ya do, don't buy the WPS one.... went that route and it broke first ride out.......

Brandy Brandy! ;) Of course I am going to ride this year....got in a few rides last year after my damn mechanic took forever to get my damn tunnel on. Gave it to him in July and I finally got it in March! What a punk ***! You coming over here this year to ride? Let me know....I will make sure I don't let Kim know. Kevco you can come! Thanks to both of you for the advice about beer drinking...I have never had a problem in that area! hehe Slim I know you ride an electric start....but don't push your flatlander crap on me! hehe

Thanks to the rest of you for the advice! I am glad the Edges arent as bad...thank god!
 
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...and oh ya! I owe you lots of beers Brandy for the deal on that tunnel. I will get ya drunk...but I will make sure Kevco and Kim aren't around...they would probably try to hump your leg....sick b*stards!
 
If its an escape you dont have to pull the motor just remove the pipe to make it easy then pull the recoil housing. Do not remove the center nut it is not necessary, just get the rope through the little slot in the recoil drum, cut the end of the rope and burn it a little with a lighter. Then you will want to wind it about 4 or 5 times and take the rope and put it back in the drum. At this point all you do is slowly let it recoil back until the rope end is about where the hole is in the housing and take a pick or somthing similar and guide it through the hole, works good for me. I hope this helps, once you have done it a couple of times then it will only take about 15 to 20 minutes to do the whole job. Good luck let us know how you do.

I did as exactly as you said and it worked great....but then I couldn't get any pre-load. So I took out the spring and the damn thing was a mess....it was intertwined and the middle was bent all weird. So I obviously took your advice Brandy and went and bought a new spring. I also bought a new water pump belt.

Any suggestion to put the spring in? I don't want it to unravel and then I will be throwing things around the garage! hehe :D
 
hahaha, I believe the edges are easier to change than the IQs. The RMK/Dragon IQs require removal of the engine to get the lower bolt loose. The newer ('07+ iirc) don't even have the hole for the bolt in the cover.


Mule, when you do change the recoil rope, do not (and I repeat) do not put the bottom bolt back in the recoil housing. I'm assuming you're talking about the 900/755 RMK's. That bottom bolt has been missing from my sled for two years now
 
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