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First ride on a snowbike ( Mototrax Demo ride )

This is a SICK JOKE at this point....

So I got my new bulkhead and the right fork fit kit spacers yesterday.

The new bulkhead is square, unlike the first one. But its got another problem.... the center cross bar that the threaded rod goes through seems to have been welded with the hole out of line. The threaded rod angles downwards compared to the bulkhead arms/slots.

This makes it IMPOSSIBLE to install the two outer sidebolts through the chain adjusters.

Pictures showing the bolt angled downward.




If I put one bolt through just barley... like this.


The other side ( note i'm pulling up as hard as I can on it, and its impossible to line the hole up or get a bolt in )



 
No I don't think that true, the new husky 501 has 4CS I think hell now i'm confused? and the diameter is diff-rent, smaller diameter on the bike right hand side for sure.

I was looking at it at the dealers demo bike here with my spacers in my hands. no way mine would fit in the 4CS forks... mine are too big around. We were hunting around hoping one of their husky fit kits would fit my bike but the forks are way diffrent.

Regardless, looks like my new parts will be here Friday *crosses fingers* that it works out finally.

In 16 I believe all the bikes went the smaller front axle, has to do with year to year changes not fork designs. Should be the same axle from 04-15 regardless of fork.
 
Bulkhead #3 was overnight-ed. fully assembled for me with chain adjusters and whatnot already on it. They should maybe think about doing that to all of them would help find the bulkhead problems I had.

Its now finally mounted on the bike!

Tomorrow I need to put the chain on and the brake. But its on now with right fit kit and all.

On my '14 500 KTM the set screws for the swing-arm spacers, I put them on top at first like in the install video but they hit the clutch/case cover, or where impossible to get to. Luckily there is threads underneath so i pulled the kit again and put them under. Just an FYI, because I had to pull the swingarm axle a couple times to figure that out which is not easy solo.



 
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While you are waiting for your strut, get to work on bleeding your brake, especially if it is the hand brake. Took me as long to get that right as it did to install the whole kit. Reverse bleed from the upper nipple in the caliper via a syringe. If you already have a bleeder kit, check the hose size as compared to the bleed nipples. Mine seemed smaller than standard. 1/4" wrench for the bleeder.

Why is there two nipples?

I have been trying to bleed from the lower one because.. well both are a nightmare to access.

Should I bleed from the top one?

And yes they are definitely smaller than normal.
 
Bleed both. This was the sucky part of install. I use foot brake so I got a extra master cylinder so I don't have to do it again.

I use a seringe and small tube, weed eater fuel line to be exact.. I put it on the caliper bleeder nipple and fill the master cylinder rbackwards thru the caliper first. Also some front brake levers don't allow the full movement unless you take them off the bars.
 
Bleed both. This was the sucky part of install. I use foot brake so I got a extra master cylinder so I don't have to do it again.

I use a seringe and small tube, weed eater fuel line to be exact.. I put it on the caliper bleeder nipple and fill the master cylinder rbackwards thru the caliper first. Also some front brake levers don't allow the full movement unless you take them off the bars.

I switched from the bottom nipple to the top and screwed around for another hour. I finally have "some" resistance in my lever but...im pretty much stuck here. do I need to put hoses on both at the same time? All my hoses are too big.

spent 2 hours on it used half a bottle of brake fluid..most of it is in my catch container or the floor.

Not sure what i'm doing wrong never had this much trouble before witha bleed...but never done it from empty before either.

Edit: I have this which works on my KTM stuff but not the mototrax brake.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077QSGFG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and I have this...which has not been much help either lol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQVIF36/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Bleed both. This was the sucky part of install. I use foot brake so I got a extra master cylinder so I don't have to do it again.

I use a seringe and small tube, weed eater fuel line to be exact.. I put it on the caliper bleeder nipple and fill the master cylinder rbackwards thru the caliper first. Also some front brake levers don't allow the full movement unless you take them off the bars.

I used weedeater fuel line as well. To fit it on my syringe and to get maximum depth over the nipple, I used a heat gun on the line to soften it up before pressing over the nipple. I also used about 2 feet of line so I wasn't stuck using my syringe inside the tunnel.
 
So,,, would it be a good idea to first bleed the brake before install? I know that doing so when I snagged a brake line on my dirt bike that it was a lot easier to bleed by holding the caliper above the reservoir.
 
So,,, would it be a good idea to first bleed the brake before install? I know that doing so when I snagged a brake line on my dirt bike that it was a lot easier to bleed by holding the caliper above the reservoir.

It would be kinda hard to rout the line with a brake lever attached to it.. so I don't think I would do that.
 
My Camso came with a pre-bled front brake and it has a rather bulky master cylinder and routing was no problem. I just removed the brake lever and slid the RH fork out of the top clamp and it was a snap to route through to the handlebar.
 
So, If you could clamp the line with something small, then thread the line down the frame and unclamp it facing
up to keep the fluid from running out, then as you hook the line up squeeze the lever a little, that should keep from having air get in. Probably need two guys but well worth the reduced frustration. Squeeze the piston all the way in, this way there is less of an air chamber to fill. Ad fluid there with the bleed nipple out and it being the highest point or do that part in reverse with a hose on the bleed port with the hose mounting point the highest and back fill the caliper. with the piston all the way in will reduce the amount of air in the caliper. So when you attach the brake line all you do is add more fluid as you squeeze the lever to get the piston back to what it needs be to fit over the disc.
 
Finally got to ride it today! It was a lot of fun.

It does feel very front heavy like riding my 950Super Enduro with 8 gallons of gas over the front wheel.. I don't know if that normal or if I need to tweak something. springs and whatever else?

I realized loading it onto my sled deck was going to be impossible so I had to use my little enclosed trailer.





I was solo so I only rode around real mellow near the parking lot for an hour. It was working good but these are falling out already.

 
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Update:

I have not had any time to ride other than a quick session.

Mototrax is really trying though they are making up for the messed up stuff they sent me originally.

I talked to them today ( Danny ) and have a bunch of updates and fixes coming to me. all of which they hinted at in their big post.

I'm no longer annoyed, my kit is on and seems to work..I cant comment on durability or anything at this point. My dealer( pro caliber ) and mototrax both gave me some perks.
 
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This has nothing to do with mototrax but snowbikes in general.

Man are they a BITCH to move around/load and unload. Normally I use a sled deck for my snowmobile. It was impossible to get the snowbike onto it.

Used the trailer..still kinda a pain..especially unloading.

And this happend and ruined my day. Bike fell over on the drive up, with the ski tip stuck into my motorcycle wheel chuck. causing massive twist on the ski.

My ski was super bent and tweaked I tried to ride it for a bit but it was super tweaked out and you would almost have to put the bars in the ground before you could turn left.

So I packed up and went home. Ski seemed to have corrected itself by the time I got home. ( 20-30min drive )



LOL been hauling bikes around for years. never had one fall over. The straps were still connected on this one... which is really odd


I guess I'm just not destined to ride a snowbike. Might have to go back to my Ski Doo save my frustrations.
 
This has nothing to do with mototrax but snowbikes in general.



Man are they a BITCH to move around/load and unload. Normally I use a sled deck for my snowmobile. It was impossible to get the snowbike onto it.



Used the trailer..still kinda a pain..especially unloading.



And this happend and ruined my day. Bike fell over on the drive up, with the ski tip stuck into my motorcycle wheel chuck. causing massive twist on the ski.



My ski was super bent and tweaked I tried to ride it for a bit but it was super tweaked out and you would almost have to put the bars in the ground before you could turn left.



So I packed up and went home. Ski seemed to have corrected itself by the time I got home. ( 20-30min drive )







LOL been hauling bikes around for years. never had one fall over. The straps were still connected on this one... which is really odd





I guess I'm just not destined to ride a snowbike. Might have to go back to my Ski Doo save my frustrations.



I like reverse on mine. :)

And a huge snowbank.........

66eca96a31e0c17f8be9b9a5fa337d87.jpg
 
This has nothing to do with mototrax but snowbikes in general.

Man are they a BITCH to move around/load and unload. Normally I use a sled deck for my snowmobile. It was impossible to get the snowbike onto it.

Used the trailer..still kinda a pain..especially unloading.

And this happend and ruined my day. Bike fell over on the drive up, with the ski tip stuck into my motorcycle wheel chuck. causing massive twist on the ski.

My ski was super bent and tweaked I tried to ride it for a bit but it was super tweaked out and you would almost have to put the bars in the ground before you could turn left.

So I packed up and went home. Ski seemed to have corrected itself by the time I got home. ( 20-30min drive )



LOL been hauling bikes around for years. never had one fall over. The straps were still connected on this one... which is really odd


I guess I'm just not destined to ride a snowbike. Might have to go back to my Ski Doo save my frustrations.

No need for a chock for the ski, just put a couple floor anchors in your trailer and use ratchet straps to the footpegs. And use wheels on the ski to get it in and out.
 
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