First ride of 2011 now have some clutching questions.

[thefullmonte]

You will find plenty of information in the "increasing your IQ" sticky. During your next ride pay close attention to what it is doing. Does it rise and then fall or just go straight to 7800 and stay there? We are probably going to need you to somehow get your secondary apart as well. You may end up wanting to change the helix in there.

Your primary should be in the ballpark with that spring and 10-66 or maybe 10-64. I wouldn't feel good about going lighter than that. It would be time to switch the Helix.

Another silly thing that can cause a drop in rpm is if the exhaust bellow is torn or even if the exhaust valve spring is not proper for your altitude.

 

[rcktman96]

I will have more and better info hopefully tomorrow, I know this sounds strange but I live in Alaska and we have two areas to ride here in Juneau and both are open tomorrow so long as i dong get overly excited I will pay closer attention to whats going on, I cant make any promises though. I know I am 40 and you would think I would have grown up by now but umm not so much).

I did make sure the belt was adjusted to the proper height, deflection, and I did sand the primary, secondary and cleaned both. This was all I got accomplished today as the rest of my day was spent fixing my plow, just one of the things that comes up and gets in the way of fun ****.

 

[rcktman96]

Just got off the MTN, It is pulling 8200 to 8300 at first then dropping to 7700 it doesnt matter if its up hill or flat. I aslo noticed a clunk every now and again on engagement doesnt happen all the time but it is there. Its not all annoying at this point its still getting the job done but I sure would like to pin it and stay at max rpm.

 

[MORSNO]

The dropping off could be caused by a torn bellows on the exhaust valves. Also check the springs in the exhaust valves, the mag side (right side when sitting on the sled) is known for rusting out due to water dripping from the air plenum in the hood (there is a drain hole that lines up perfectly with the little hole in the valves that needs to be plugged and a new hole off to the side drilled out). It could also be caused by a worn belt, even if it looks good, you may want to try a new one to see if that is the problem.

The clunk noise is normal, it is caused by the cut allowing reverse to work.

 

[thefullmonte]

The clunk as stated is somewhat normal, but it did remind me that it doesn't hurt to check your chain tension just for normal maintenance. I think we need to see what you have for a secondary helix. A drop in rpm can often be contributed to the clutches not back shifting properly.

 

[rcktman96]

Thanks again for all of the advise. I am pretty sure my chain should be ok checking the chain tension is part of my maintenance ritual.

I will check out all of the stuff listed this week before next weekends ride and swap out the belt to see if that is the cause. Is 330 miles about normal belt life?

 

[winter brew]

Assuming all else is working normal, I would drop to 10-64's (sound slike its running 66's??)
Also, verify what helix and secondary spring you have....stock or ???
If all else is stock, just drop the weights.

 

[sledneck_03]

Assuming all else is working normal, I would drop to 10-64's (sound slike its running 66's??)
Also, verify what helix and secondary spring you have....stock or ???
If all else is stock, just drop the weights.

I run 64s at 0-2000 on the same sled.

 

[rcktman96]

Also does anyone have a link to a how to change your weights article? I would like to read how to do it before I go into it guessing no matter how simple it is or isnt.

 

[rcktman96]

Update, the weights that have been in the clutch this whole time are 10-64 an the spairs I have are 10-62. The belt currently on it is a 1115 and my spair belt is a 1080.

 

[440dart]

Update, the weights that have been in the clutch this whole time are 10-64 an the spairs I have are 10-62. The belt currently on it is a 1115 and my spair belt is a 1080.

You really need to get that secondary apart and see what you have in there for spring and helix. Given that all else is good working no ripped bellows new springs ect sounds like you need to change out that helix. Get it apart and tell us what you have. But like i said you need to make sure your engine is in good working condition.

 

[rcktman96]

I just got out of the garage and the spring that has been mentioned alot is hosed as you guys thought the bellow seems to be in good order. Hopefully the parts will arrive before this weekends ride.

 

[rcktman96]

Thanks to all who had suggestions I had her in the flats on Friday and in the hills on Sunday after replacing the spring in the exhaust valve it seams to have taken care of the problem. She went to 8200, 8250 and stayed put even on the long pulls.

Thanks again.