2009 700 RMK 155, Camoplast track, SLP can, and fox shocks all the way around. We were riding bottom less powder yesterday and the highest I hit was 7800 rpm, most of the day it was 7700. I rode this sled for about 20 miles last year another words I am off of a skidoo 08 xp and I don't know how to adjust the clutch to get the extra rpms. Nearest dealer 800 miles. Any advise will be greatly appreciated.
First ride of 2011 now have some clutching questions.
- Thread starter rcktman96
- Start date
To be honest I don't know. The guy I bought it from said the dealer set it up for sea level and sent him the weights it came from the factory with as well as what it currently has in it. That is the the end of what I know at this point.
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BadAftertaste
Well-known member
(0-2000) 10-66
(2000-4000) 10-64
(4000-6000) 10-62
(6000-8000) 10-60
(8000-10,000) 10-58
(10,000-12,000) 10-56
(2000-4000) 10-64
(4000-6000) 10-62
(6000-8000) 10-60
(8000-10,000) 10-58
(10,000-12,000) 10-56
Assuming I have the proper weight, is there adjustments to be made with out swapping out clutch weights?
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BadAftertaste
Well-known member
Thank you. I did searches for clutch word combinations I could think of but did not come up with that thread.
It does have a SLP can, foam removed, vents on the side panels the rest of the mods to the sled are in the suspension and track, Fox R Evols up front, Fox customs in the rear, and a Camoplast extreme.
I'm still learning the intricacies of clutching. But as 440Dart says, you need to make sure your clutch components are in good shape. Also, RPM issues can come from wore out belts that are not adjusted in the secondary correctly. You might also have to check your powervalves to make sure they are not sticking and are opening up all the way.
You could drop 2 grams in weight in your clutches to see if that changes your RPM. This is easy to do. But don't rest there, make sure your belt is in good shape, your primary and secondary are clean, bushings good and clean your valves. My 700 would gum up every so often.
You could drop 2 grams in weight in your clutches to see if that changes your RPM. This is easy to do. But don't rest there, make sure your belt is in good shape, your primary and secondary are clean, bushings good and clean your valves. My 700 would gum up every so often.
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440dart
Well-known member
Always the little chit that bite's ya in the arse, iam learning about clutching also just focus on rpms then work out the backshift issues later once you get everything sorted out.
Thanks for advice. Every thing I looked at last night seems to be in working order, I wrote down the number on the spring but left it at home. I do have the original weights which I believe were for 6000 ft. Every part for this has to be ordered as my nearest dealer is 700 plus miles away, the only brand that has dealer support in Juneau is Ski Doo. The sled has 330 miles on it give or take.
What elevation are you running at?
If it is stock setup for 6000ft and you are below that, you should be over-revving, not being low on the RPM's.
You really need to figure out what you're running first before ordering new weights. If you're running proper or too light of weights already, there are other areas that you'll need to look at.
If it is stock setup for 6000ft and you are below that, you should be over-revving, not being low on the RPM's.
You really need to figure out what you're running first before ordering new weights. If you're running proper or too light of weights already, there are other areas that you'll need to look at.
The sled was originally weighted for 6000 Or that is what I was told. I have those weights in my tool box. The weights in the clutch now are for 0-2000 which is were I spend most of my time.
Also, the belt is the original belt but it does not look bad at all, no crazy marks or obvious damage to the secondary or primary. It looks as you would expect a machine with that few miles on it. I am headed up Sunday again so I will have see if it was a fluke or not, I dont believe it is but as stated above I need to figure out what exactly is going on before I start throwing money at it.
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volcano buster
Well-known member
Ask some riding buddies if they have some different Polaris weights you can borrow to test. If you are running something and can change it with a different weight then you will know if you are on the right path. It is handy to borrow some for a ride (or part of a ride anyway) so that you can narrow down what you think you need before ordering them up.
As easy as that sounds, I am the only person I know with a Polaris in town. I may see one or two more over the course of the season, Arctic Cat and Yamaha are a little more frequent but this is a Ski Doo town, its the only brand we have get warranty support for. On most rides I will be surrounded by nothing but Revs and XPs all day most of the season. It would be nice to have more Polaris riders here.
Thanks again for all of the help.
I cant answer about if the spring was changed or not, I dont know, what is there now is black and 140/330. The weights I have in my tool box are 10-66.
Is there a good how to thread some where on here? I think I saw one but I dont recall anymore.
Does this have any sort of rev limiter on it? I dont want to experiment and creat custom venting with one of the rods flying somewhere cause I was over reving the piss out of it.
I cant answer about if the spring was changed or not, I dont know, what is there now is black and 140/330. The weights I have in my tool box are 10-66.
Is there a good how to thread some where on here? I think I saw one but I dont recall anymore.
Does this have any sort of rev limiter on it? I dont want to experiment and creat custom venting with one of the rods flying somewhere cause I was over reving the piss out of it.
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