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First Ever Polaris

ranger12

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I have always been a Cat guy. I recently purchased a 12 Pro 163". The sled is for my girlfriend, but I guarantee I'll be spending time on it. I had limited time when I purchased the sled from a guy I trust. I'm interested in getting feedback from anybody whose had one of these. Are there any specific things I need to be aware of before I take it out riding? The sled seems to be in good shape.

Sled Specifics:
2000 miles
-new top end
All 13 updated
Venting (aftermarket)
Electric start
-light weight battery
clutching done by previous owner
Two tracks
- one trimmed (on it) and a stock track
Can
- not sure which one
After market footboards
Cover

Things I plan to do to it:
Bikeman reliability kit
Bikeman head
MM Sports front bumper

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated since this is my first ever Polaris and I hope to enjoy riding it.

1069153_10205389038754955_3237337589074147461_n.jpg
 
I have always been a Cat guy. I recently purchased a 12 Pro 163". The sled is for my girlfriend, but I guarantee I'll be spending time on it. I had limited time when I purchased the sled from a guy I trust. I'm interested in getting feedback from anybody whose had one of these. Are there any specific things I need to be aware of before I take it out riding? The sled seems to be in good shape.

Sled Specifics:
2000 miles
-new top end
All 13 updated
Venting (aftermarket)
Electric start
-light weight battery
clutching done by previous owner
Two tracks
- one trimmed (on it) and a stock track
Can
- not sure which one
After market footboards
Cover

Things I plan to do to it:
Bikeman reliability kit
Bikeman head
MM Sports front bumper

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated since this is my first ever Polaris and I hope to enjoy riding it.

what pistons did they put in? may already have a fix kit.

Those look like 13 a arms. Watch them, the glue may...may let go the 14s they used wayyyy more glue but not all the 13s failed. are the 13 shocks? if they are you can replace the arms with timbersleds for way cheaper than stock. the 12 shocks are longer i believe.....

depends on the snow but i found the trimmed track trenched way more. may want to put the non trimmed on if its trenching.
 
Use good NON ethanol 91 premium fuel.Add a few ounces of VES gold or whatever oil you use too tank on top of what the injection does.I've done this on my CFI engines since 2009 and never had a failure.
 
Thanks for the advice sledneck_03 and savagecanuk.

There has to be more areas to be concerned about on this sled with 2000 miles on it. I think I did the right thing by addressing the motor to start with. If somebody came over to the cat side and had this post I would have a "whole" bunch of things to tell him to check. I know absolutely nothing about the Polaris sleds and have only been on the Polaris site snooping once. Maybe I should just get some seat time on it and see how everything feels and go from there. If anybody has anything else to offer it would be greatly appreciated.

Is the Doo cap for the oil tank a must have?
 
12 pro

Check motor mounts mine where wore on the recoil side, ski doo thermostate if you put on a high comprssion head, venting the oils tank cant hurt i did mine with fittings a one way check valve and hose for 10-15 dollars.
 
I don't have a Pro, so you can take what I say with a grain of salt. From what I have observed, some of the things I would be checking/changing if I were in your shoes are steering stem bushing, fuel filter, motor mounts, a-arms, ski doo thermostat, ski doo oil cap, rebuild the shocks, check clutches out thoroughly (applies to any used sled), tunnel brace kit where it meets the bulkhead, motor fix kit like you said, and disassemble skid and clean/lube the aluminum pivot shafts.

Does that sled have two sets of ice scratchers installed?
 
I don't have a Pro, so you can take what I say with a grain of salt. From what I have observed, some of the things I would be checking/changing if I were in your shoes are steering stem bushing, fuel filter, motor mounts, a-arms, ski doo thermostat, ski doo oil cap, rebuild the shocks, check clutches out thoroughly (applies to any used sled), tunnel brace kit where it meets the bulkhead, motor fix kit like you said, and disassemble skid and clean/lube the aluminum pivot shafts.

Does that sled have two sets of ice scratchers installed?

Only needs one set of scratchers f you run a doo thermostate unless you run a 3" track then i would run 2 setsof scratchers
 
I run the 3" with only the stock scratchers and am doing fine. Last weekend I had about 7 miles of riding on pretty much solid ice to get up to the snow. Drug my feet a little and stopped once when I hit 180. Let it cool down and then headed the rest of the way up. Later on in the day we were poking along through the trees trying to find a place to cross a creek and the two sleds I was riding with overheated. One was a 12 Pro - 163 (stock track) the other was a 14 Proclimb 163 (also the stock track). I did not get over 170.

However - I have a Canada Sled Parts gauge lifter with the SPAL fan. Comparing temps all day with the other pro and I was always 10-15 degrees cooler when we were running hot. When the snow was good and we were running normal temps (~120-130) our temps were the same.
 
I run the 3" with only the stock scratchers and am doing fine. Last weekend I had about 7 miles of riding on pretty much solid ice to get up to the snow. Drug my feet a little and stopped once when I hit 180. Let it cool down and then headed the rest of the way up. Later on in the day we were poking along through the trees trying to find a place to cross a creek and the two sleds I was riding with overheated. One was a 12 Pro - 163 (stock track) the other was a 14 Proclimb 163 (also the stock track). I did not get over 170.

However - I have a Canada Sled Parts gauge lifter with the SPAL fan. Comparing temps all day with the other pro and I was always 10-15 degrees cooler when we were running hot. When the snow was good and we were running normal temps (~120-130) our temps were the same.

Mine never gets over 110-120 on an icy trail and runs 110 all day long up top this is with the Ski Doo thermostate
 
Thanks for the advice sledneck_03 and savagecanuk.

There has to be more areas to be concerned about on this sled with 2000 miles on it. I think I did the right thing by addressing the motor to start with. If somebody came over to the cat side and had this post I would have a "whole" bunch of things to tell him to check. I know absolutely nothing about the Polaris sleds and have only been on the Polaris site snooping once. Maybe I should just get some seat time on it and see how everything feels and go from there. If anybody has anything else to offer it would be greatly appreciated.

Is the Doo cap for the oil tank a must have?


My 2014 has:

Slp torque arm
Doo cap
Mds weights
Ftx tunnel gussets
Tether
Storage
Gas
Oil

Cans, heads, pipes, all make little improvement for the money.

2.25 gearing i would suggest as well.

Read the manual, or scan threw it. So many questions on here are in the manual, if you dont have one its online free.

Polaris clutching, belt changing, and setting deflection is way different than the cats. Make sure you have the tools for deflection, and the belt removing tool.

Set up suspension as per book for weight.

Not sure what else... Grease it regularly, book shows nipple location.

If your steering is loose, oft racing blocks.

Its a 12 with 13 updates? Chain case or belt drive? If its belt drive make sure you have 14 belt and make sure track tension is proper, racheting track will wreck stock belt drive.
 
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If it hasn't been done, change the fuel filter. VES valves been cleaned? Inspect the QD belt closely, or, if you don't know, put a 14 belt on and keep the current for a spare. Are the upper steering blocks sloppy? There's a fix. What kind of slop exists in the primary weight bushings? I'd have these on my list, too.
 
My 2014 has:

Slp torque arm
Doo cap
Mds weights
Ftx tunnel gussets
Tether
Storage
Gas
Oil

Cans, heads, pipes, all make little improvement for the money.

2.25 gearing i would suggest as well.

Read the manual, or scan threw it. So many questions on here are in the manual, if you dont have one its online free.

Polaris clutching, belt changing, and setting deflection is way different than the cats. Make sure you have the tools for deflection, and the belt removing tool.

Set up suspension as per book for weight.

Not sure what else... Grease it regularly, book shows nipple location.

If your steering is loose, oft racing blocks.

Its a 12 with 13 updates? Chain case or belt drive? If its belt drive make sure you have 14 belt and make sure track tension is proper, racheting track will wreck stock belt drive.
Not sure what it all entails for the 13 update. I do know that it does not have the belt drive. It has MDS weights. I will definitely get an owners manual, I am so used to working on the Cats that I didn't even think about it. There is a storage bag attached to the bottom back of the seat, I didn't notice any tools. I should be able to get the tools from a Polaris dealer? 2.25 gearing seems pretty high coming from a cat background. The motor must be making more power than I thought to be able to pull those gears. Probably a lot more efficient clutching also. I can see where the torque arm will be beneficial if people are going through motor mount.
 
I don't have a Pro, so you can take what I say with a grain of salt. From what I have observed, some of the things I would be checking/changing if I were in your shoes are steering stem bushing, fuel filter, motor mounts, a-arms, ski doo thermostat, ski doo oil cap, rebuild the shocks, check clutches out thoroughly (applies to any used sled), tunnel brace kit where it meets the bulkhead, motor fix kit like you said, and disassemble skid and clean/lube the aluminum pivot shafts.

Does that sled have two sets of ice scratchers installed?
Yes it does have two sets of scratchers. thought that was odd, first time I have seen that. I think I seen some place on here that stated you need special tools to replace the fuel filter on a 12. Is that right?
 
Sounds like the Doo thermostat and the Doo oil cap are a must. This is not a big deal, but I am not sure what oil the other guy was running. I took the cap off and it was a clear to gold color. I thought it was the Polaris gold oil?
Stupid question here, but can I run it down and then start using the cat oil in it or should I just buck up and get the Polaris gold oil?
 
yeah you need a common fuel line tool you can get em at any auto parts place or online
your in luck there are aftermarket filters now much cheaper than the factory ones
my starting season list is
change plugs
new clutch springs
clean and inspect clutches
fuel fiter
grease everything
clean power valves
check everything over
check SW for any news floating around about my sled :face-icon-small-win
some of this stuff may have been done recently ?
you'll love this sled

let it snow
 
Here is a pic with the MM Sports front bumper on it. I like how it attaches to the bottom of the belly pan for a little added protection.

20141215_111122.jpg
 
Typical wear items on a pro:
Clutching-Replace springs annually
Fuel Filter-Every season or 2000 miles
Ski Bushings- Replace annually
Clean VES valves once a season
Inspect motor mounts, and replace if you see flat spots on the rubber
Freshen up shocks, and valve accordingly
Grease suspension 2-3 times a season
Inspect the skid bearings and replace as needed
Ensure track tension is to spec
Remove chaincase cover, clean, and inspect chain/gears. Might as well throw a 19T top gear in there while your at it to improve throttle response and belt life.


Best bang for buck mods:
Clutching-Good weights, spring, and helix (I like 60/42/.36) will improve throttle response and back shift
Raptor springs improve the ride while giving you some bottoming out protection
You'll love working on pros, very easy to tear down and work on. Every bolt on it is metric too FYI.
 
Not sure what it all entails for the 13 update. I do know that it does not have the belt drive. It has MDS weights. I will definitely get an owners manual, I am so used to working on the Cats that I didn't even think about it. There is a storage bag attached to the bottom back of the seat, I didn't notice any tools. I should be able to get the tools from a Polaris dealer? 2.25 gearing seems pretty high coming from a cat background. The motor must be making more power than I thought to be able to pull those gears. Probably a lot more efficient clutching also. I can see where the torque arm will be beneficial if people are going through motor mount.

they come stock 2.1,

http://cdn.polarisindustries.com/polaris/common/parts-manuals/9923345r01_lo_res.pdf

tools are in a bag, bolted to the clutch cover infront of the dash
 
ranger, from your last pic it appears the sway bar has been removed. If you know the previous owner you may want to ask if he had any shock work done to compensate or if he has the sway bar so you have the option of putting it back in.
 
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they come stock 2.1,

http://cdn.polarisindustries.com/polaris/common/parts-manuals/9923345r01_lo_res.pdf

tools are in a bag, bolted to the clutch cover infront of the dash
For the last several years the Cats have come with 19/50 gearing, that is a 2.63 ratio. Makes me wonder if the Polaris would benefit from lower gearing. I know Cat did it to help out with their sh**ty clutches and clutching. I do know that the 2.63 works very well in the trees but su**s going down the trail. I prefer the 20/49, 2.45 in my other sleds with the right clutching.

The link to the Owners Manual is great. Thank you!
 
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