if it is a two stroke that you talk about, that means your afr is good, then you can not read correct and exactly a/fr on a two stroke.
false afr readings
- Thread starter snobyrd
- Start date
WTF?
An Afr that shows 16 all day long... and you're telling him it's good?
You've got some useful posts sometimes, but others... I just don't know...
btw, I've had connections that were bad & my afr read 16 without moving, I'd guess that's your deal (guess) Try unplugging it, & plugging it back in.
2 stroke and a/fr? come on, i was thinking we are moving some steps forward here with a tech knowledge.
you can read 16, or 19 that doesn't tell you anything, and you can have in your chamber 9 or 10
2 stroke simply do not allow you to read correct a/fr. and if it is a boosted setup, then you can be 100% sure you will never get any "real" af/r reading
you can read 16, or 19 that doesn't tell you anything, and you can have in your chamber 9 or 10
2 stroke simply do not allow you to read correct a/fr. and if it is a boosted setup, then you can be 100% sure you will never get any "real" af/r reading
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wow, that post serisouly blows my mind.
they work amazing if your reasonably close... but there are obviously some limitaions to what they can do. they are not a know all do all gauge. but with the right knoweldge and gauge you can go a long way... if the thing is reading 16/17 and gurgling rich, obviously missfires are tricking it. its not missleading you, its reading exactly what it was designed to do, display the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. if your sled is boggy and running like chit, reading 16+ afr's and you add fuel and it runs worse.. obviously missreading.
your senses can tell you just as much about your state of tune as your afr gauge can.
S
supraturbo
Banned
how was your sled runing? was it burping,hicking up?faling on her face? if yes, then your gauge was reading correctly and you were to lean and a lot(mid-throttle and wot) even cruising at 16.0 a/f would cause detonation(long run). the a/f reading with those cheap gauges is for sure off ,BUT gives you a good idea where you should be able to run(tune) your fueling. idling it should read 15.0-16.5, mid throttle 13.5-14.2, wot 11.7-12.0. you will never be able to get consistant a/f with the kinda fuel box available for now anyway so do not focus on those numbers and i would suggest to "feel" your sled better.....but those a/f reading(in this reply) should be a good hint.
as for a/f over egts ....well why do you think the OEM tune the 2 strokes majorly with egts?? egts are accurate in the oil,gas,air environement the problem is not too many people datalogged egt since it is a bit pain in the butt . while datalogging the polaris 800cc(2008-2010) we notice pto side had a tendency to be a bit more hot(or lean) than mag side(mapping was not realy good) and polaris had a lot of cylinder and pistons problem, while now with the same engine(a bit diffrent port timing) the new 800cc(2011-up) the egts on each cylinder is very identical and it is clear last year results was way better than previous years.
Yes, every one of us with afr's just drive around all day with them at 16...
Seriously, think before you type man.
Not being 100% accurate, and sitting at the same number all day are very different things, if you can't see that, you should stop posting. You post some good info, but you're so set on making YOUR point sometimes that you make such black & white statements sometimes.
There are thousands of us running afr on boosted sleds specifically, and we tune with them just fine, less than perfect though... of course. Obviously the argument you're looking for though, belongs somewhere else. (btw, I tune with EGT on my main sled... not that fond of AFR)
dude, i am thinking before i type,
that is the reason why i am telling you that a/fr on a boosted sled is a junk,
it can't work. then you have way to much fresh air in the exhaust between every cycle,
dude you are boosting 6-7-8 or more psi, between every piston cycle, you have so much air in the exhaust that you never can measure the real afr. also if the exhaust become very hot your a/fr will show the engine to lean but in reality you are running to rich (exhaust firing, heat,...)
just learn a bit about two stoke, then you will see it why a/fr can`t work.
on 2 stroke like AC and PO you must have a EGT, that is your only way to figure out what is going on.
i do not want a pissing match here, then experience between some user is huge and some think they know, but they don't.
that is the reason why i am telling you that a/fr on a boosted sled is a junk,
it can't work. then you have way to much fresh air in the exhaust between every cycle,
dude you are boosting 6-7-8 or more psi, between every piston cycle, you have so much air in the exhaust that you never can measure the real afr. also if the exhaust become very hot your a/fr will show the engine to lean but in reality you are running to rich (exhaust firing, heat,...)
just learn a bit about two stoke, then you will see it why a/fr can`t work.
on 2 stroke like AC and PO you must have a EGT, that is your only way to figure out what is going on.
i do not want a pissing match here, then experience between some user is huge and some think they know, but they don't.
Yes, every one of us with afr's just drive around all day with them at 16...
Seriously, think before you type man.
Not being 100% accurate, and sitting at the same number all day are very different things, if you can't see that, you should stop posting. You post some good info, but you're so set on making YOUR point sometimes that you make such black & white statements sometimes.
There are thousands of us running afr on boosted sleds specifically, and we tune with them just fine, less than perfect though... of course. Obviously the argument you're looking for though, belongs somewhere else. (btw, I tune with EGT on my main sled... not that fond of AFR)
yes... you're the only one on here that has a clue about two strokes yeti.
That Twisted guy that uses afr for all his sleds.... a chump. All the other tuners who use them... chumps. Some day you can teach them all.
By making absolute statements like you do, a pissing match is EXACTLY what you're looking for.
Had you said... it works, but I feel it's inferior to running EGT's on a 2 stroke... I'd be agreeing with you 100% right now.
The OP is looking for some answers on how to get his gauge working, not your opinions about it's inferiority.
T
taylorbok
Active member
My buddy uses an aem gauge and he has problem getting readings. When I looked at the instructions (which i am sure he didnt do) it said something about having to calibrate the sensor by powering up the gauge (running the machine) and holding it in clean fresh air until the gauge reads 0 then shut down machine and thread it in. Once we got a new sensor and did this he had much more consistent reading
What I said above may not even be close to the actual directions since I only did it once so read the directions is my point.
What I said above may not even be close to the actual directions since I only did it once so read the directions is my point.
how ever, it can't work.
a/fr sensors from aem are already calibrated, you must heat them up before use it.
a/fr sensors from aem are already calibrated, you must heat them up before use it.
yes... you're the only one on here that has a clue about two strokes yeti.
That Twisted guy that uses afr for all his sleds.... a chump. All the other tuners who use them... chumps. Some day you can teach them all.
By making absolute statements like you do, a pissing match is EXACTLY what you're looking for.
Had you said... it works, but I feel it's inferior to running EGT's on a 2 stroke... I'd be agreeing with you 100% right now.
The OP is looking for some answers on how to get his gauge working, not your opinions about it's inferiority.
